gen 1 vgt
11-13-2010, 11:33 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
gen 1 vgt
Hello, i reacently purchased a he351he vgt turbo, and a wastegate actuater for my 1992 cummins. Was wonderin if i could pick up some pointers on the conversion, and what parts i'll need and such. thanks
11-15-2010, 10:41 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, did a search and did'nt find a lot of up to date info on the swap. A lot of the threads talked of plans on how to do the swap, but alot seemed like un finnished projects, but i might not have looked in the right places.
11-16-2010, 11:23 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: West Palm Beach, Florida
Posts: 1,450
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I tried posting something about this yesterday, but for some reason it didn't make it to the thread. 
Never mind, I'll try it again. 
*Disclaimer* All the info I'm passing along has been garnered from reading threads and posts on this fine site. I don't own one of these turbos, (yet
) so any mistakes are mine due to lack of understanding/experience. And, I'm doing it from memory... the gray matter isn't what it used to be...
That being said, here we go. You have the turbo already, right? If you take it out to your truck and drop it in the place where it will reside, two things should be immediately apparent. i) It's not going to bolt straight on to the manifold. And ii) The tube leading to the IC isn't going to meet up the the compressor outlet. Fear not, these are relatively easy fixes.
You're going to need to cut the two studs off of the turbo mounting flange, and fill the other two holes. Once this is done, grind to a nice smooth finish, mark the positions for the holes on your exhaust manifold and drill them.
For the IC tube, you're going to need to clock the compressor housing. From what I understand, there's a clamp that holds the housing to the centre of the turbo. Loosen that and you can move the housing to whatever angle works for you. IIRC, you will probably have to get a flexible boot, or one that has a slight bend in it becuase I don't think it's going to be a straight line.
As for the actuation of the turbine vanes, there are stand-alone units made for the HE351, or as you've already read you can use drive pressure to control it. I don't know how exactly to achieve this though, sorry.
You're going to have to ask the pro's! 
I'm sure I've made a few mistakes, and there's plenty to add. Anyone else?
Never mind, I'll try it again. *Disclaimer* All the info I'm passing along has been garnered from reading threads and posts on this fine site. I don't own one of these turbos, (yet
) so any mistakes are mine due to lack of understanding/experience. And, I'm doing it from memory... the gray matter isn't what it used to be...That being said, here we go. You have the turbo already, right? If you take it out to your truck and drop it in the place where it will reside, two things should be immediately apparent. i) It's not going to bolt straight on to the manifold. And ii) The tube leading to the IC isn't going to meet up the the compressor outlet. Fear not, these are relatively easy fixes.
You're going to need to cut the two studs off of the turbo mounting flange, and fill the other two holes. Once this is done, grind to a nice smooth finish, mark the positions for the holes on your exhaust manifold and drill them.
For the IC tube, you're going to need to clock the compressor housing. From what I understand, there's a clamp that holds the housing to the centre of the turbo. Loosen that and you can move the housing to whatever angle works for you. IIRC, you will probably have to get a flexible boot, or one that has a slight bend in it becuase I don't think it's going to be a straight line.
As for the actuation of the turbine vanes, there are stand-alone units made for the HE351, or as you've already read you can use drive pressure to control it. I don't know how exactly to achieve this though, sorry.
You're going to have to ask the pro's! I'm sure I've made a few mistakes, and there's plenty to add. Anyone else?
11-16-2010, 06:02 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the post KD93, i was thinkin bout makin som kinda adapter to fit it to the exhaust manifold with a couple pieces of 1/2" steel flat bar and a piece of rectangle tubing or somthin. Anyone else???
11-16-2010, 07:47 PM
#7
I put mine on without any adapter, but it required some minor machining. It fits great. If you have good fabricating abilities, this is a great turbo.
I went a different route than most. I removed the stepper motor from the turbo, and installed a reversable d/c motor in its place. With this set up I can manually control the turbo from in the cab with the touch of a switch. This method does not allow for automatic variation while driving, like a boost or drive pressure referenced actuator does, but it does allow me to "tune" my exhaust housing for different driving conditions. Mostly the thing stays in one position unless Im towing. But it is nice to be able to find the sweet spot without experimenting with different exhaust housings.
I went a different route than most. I removed the stepper motor from the turbo, and installed a reversable d/c motor in its place. With this set up I can manually control the turbo from in the cab with the touch of a switch. This method does not allow for automatic variation while driving, like a boost or drive pressure referenced actuator does, but it does allow me to "tune" my exhaust housing for different driving conditions. Mostly the thing stays in one position unless Im towing. But it is nice to be able to find the sweet spot without experimenting with different exhaust housings.
Trending Topics
11-16-2010, 09:54 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: West Palm Beach, Florida
Posts: 1,450
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I put mine on without any adapter, but it required some minor machining. It fits great. If you have good fabricating abilities, this is a great turbo.
I went a different route than most. I removed the stepper motor from the turbo, and installed a reversable d/c motor in its place. With this set up I can manually control the turbo from in the cab with the touch of a switch. This method does not allow for automatic variation while driving, like a boost or drive pressure referenced actuator does, but it does allow me to "tune" my exhaust housing for different driving conditions. Mostly the thing stays in one position unless Im towing. But it is nice to be able to find the sweet spot without experimenting with different exhaust housings.
I went a different route than most. I removed the stepper motor from the turbo, and installed a reversable d/c motor in its place. With this set up I can manually control the turbo from in the cab with the touch of a switch. This method does not allow for automatic variation while driving, like a boost or drive pressure referenced actuator does, but it does allow me to "tune" my exhaust housing for different driving conditions. Mostly the thing stays in one position unless Im towing. But it is nice to be able to find the sweet spot without experimenting with different exhaust housings.
11-17-2010, 06:08 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
I put mine on without any adapter, but it required some minor machining. It fits great. If you have good fabricating abilities, this is a great turbo.
I went a different route than most. I removed the stepper motor from the turbo, and installed a reversable d/c motor in its place. With this set up I can manually control the turbo from in the cab with the touch of a switch. This method does not allow for automatic variation while driving, like a boost or drive pressure referenced actuator does, but it does allow me to "tune" my exhaust housing for different driving conditions. Mostly the thing stays in one position unless Im towing. But it is nice to be able to find the sweet spot without experimenting with different exhaust housings.
I went a different route than most. I removed the stepper motor from the turbo, and installed a reversable d/c motor in its place. With this set up I can manually control the turbo from in the cab with the touch of a switch. This method does not allow for automatic variation while driving, like a boost or drive pressure referenced actuator does, but it does allow me to "tune" my exhaust housing for different driving conditions. Mostly the thing stays in one position unless Im towing. But it is nice to be able to find the sweet spot without experimenting with different exhaust housings.
11-17-2010, 06:17 PM
#10
Registered User
Here's my take on it. 2nd gen, but a lot of the same stuff applies. I'll update the thread more when truck is on the road again in a couple weeks...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t268916.html
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...s-t268916.html
11-17-2010, 06:19 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Same here, pics of your setup would be great. Also have a few more questions for everyone. Does coolant run through the vgt turbo? Noticed it has a couple more threaded holes that look like a fitting would go into. If so, which are oil and which would be coolant?
And, is it ok to turn the exhaust housing to adjust the angle that the turbo sits?
And, is it ok to turn the exhaust housing to adjust the angle that the turbo sits?
11-17-2010, 06:34 PM
#12
There is a previous thread that shows how I modified/mounted the turbo. I think the thread was something like "got 351 vgt" or something similar. Here are some pics of it on the engine... 4" exhaust fits great.
11-17-2010, 06:43 PM
#13
A spin type pto cable would work perfect. The actuator section doesn't even move an inch, so a few twists of the cable would get you from opened to closed pretty quickly.
11-17-2010, 07:07 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yea the twist type is what i was thinking of. There would'nt be much to it i wouldnt think, i think i will go that rout for actuation. So, i dont need to hook up water lines?
11-17-2010, 07:14 PM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
, 4" exhaust is on my list of future upgrades.
