gozapper

I need to remove the fuel tank on a 98 3500. My question is; are the fuel lines and wires to the tank long enough for the tank drop all the way to the ground. Or will I have to just drop one end and support the end where the sender is to disconnect the lines.

There is a goose neck hitch here or I would tilt the bed.

Thanks,

Tom

gozapper

Well I removed the tank today. Put a jack under the tank, removed the straps, dropped it down. Kinked the plastic fuel lines while trying to remove the connectors. To remove the connections, I squeezed the plastic tabs and pulled it off. This worked for the large line, but the smaller line refused to budge. So I cut that one. These lines are shrink fit to the metal lines. So has anyone run into this? I am thinking about using rubber fuel lines for the short runs from the tank to the metal lines on the frame.

The electric connector; I removed the red lock tab completely and squeezed the tab. It came right out. Thanks for this from another thread.
The big problem is going to be rebuilding the thing that holds the sending unit and the screen.

Does anyone know what the dealer cost for a new one is?

I had to do the drop tank instead of tilting the bed because of a goose neck ball hitch in the bed.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.


Tom

98fargo

Lots of times the fittings fill full of dirt, then you can't squeeze the tabs enough to unlock them, however there is a special tool to press the plastic line back onto the fitting, since you have already cut the line, I would take the opportunity to run whole new lines using diesel rated hose.

infidel

Dealer cost for entire tank module used to be around $300.
Be careful they don't try to sell you one with an in tank fuel pump.

If I were you I'd take the opportunity to run quality hose all the way from the tank to engine to avoid future problems.
Abandon the prone to fail stock supply and return lines.
Even the metal lines spring leaks.

9812vram

Ya, definitely run new lines while the tank is out. Larry B's sells marine grade diesel hose. You'll need 3/8" for supply and 5/16" for return. They fit right on the tank sending unit barbs. I like the Marine grade stuff 'cause it's a much more durable hose, way more money though too. The lift pump is pipe thread if you take the adapters out so it's easy to plumb a hose barb fitting in there. Also, for the return line I got a Banjo to 5/16 hose barb and hooked straight up to the overflow on the pump. I think it was a series 8 banjo but I can't remember what the ID was. A caliper will tell you quickly though.