jbprice1

Hello all. I'm a new member here and can't find any info regarding this, so I'm going to ask. I recently purchased a 99 Ram 3500 with the 24V motor and 5 speed manual that needs a few things that this site has been of immense help with (A/C vacuum, blower motor, etc) so I'm already grateful. Upon inquiring for a spare "lift pump", my local Mopar Dealer is suggesting I make the changeover to the "in tank" pump/sender kit and do away with the block mounted "lift pump". Apparently there's a Mopar "kit" to get it done simply. Have any of you done this and does it last longer? Is it worth the extra $$ (cost is 2.5X greater) and labor? Or am I just as well off to keep tabs on my fuel pressure and keep an extra "lift pump" on hand? Either way it is my labor and their parts - let me know what you all have done with your many more years of experience with these trucks.

wyododge

I would not go with an in tank kit, especially not with the dealer. There are lots of options that are much better IMO. I went with FASS, mounts on the back rail. There are other types as well.

On Edit - It is always a good idea to have a FP gauge on our trucks. If it were me I would do gauges first, then lift pump. Unless you know that you are having fuel delivery problems.

WELCOME TO DTR!!!

mrhemi

Given the choice at the time I probably would not have chosen that option. That being said, I am the original owner of a 2002 2500 HO 6sp. The VP44 died at 50000 miles due to a failed lift pump. I did not have gauges on yet. It was replaced by the dealer under warranty, but, they had to put the intank pump kit on as part of a service bulletin in conjunction with the warranty replacement. This all cost me nothing. Gauges were installed at this time also. I have since put 125000 trouble free miles on this truck and continue to do so. This pump kit is also the OEM install on the later model diesel Ram's and they don't seem to be prone to failure either.

My 2 cents and experience.

Mr. Mike.

patdaly

Sorry, I make it a special priority to change the in-tank pumps back to what God intended................... The last thing you want when the stupid pump fails is to have to drop the stinking tank to fix it.

So far I have fixed 2........... I personally would go with a good aftermarket frame mounted setup, but both of the ones I have changed back so far have went back on the side of the engine, the owners did not want to spend the $$$

rattlerbob5.9

Save your self some money and update it with a better aftermarket pump located on the frame rail where you can get to it if need be at any time.

How often do you get the chance to upgrade to something better for less money then an OEM replacement ? Yes i did read where in your case it was under warranty . I would not let them touch my truck or put one in the tank myself. And you can do the install yourself.

duster75

in tank pumps are junk/ dodges bandaid that did not work. Go with a fass or a air dog mount on frame you'll be happier in the long run. Nate

jbprice1

OK, thanks all for the advice. I was leaning away from the "in tank" version for many of the reasons listed, but if longevity made it worthwhile I'd consider. However, it doesn't appear that is the case either. So I'll monitor the gauges (as soon as they get here) and upgrade when the lift pump starts to go away. Thanks everyone.

KATOOM

As advised, stay away from the in-tank pump, and for that matter stay away from the OEM lift pump mounted on the block too. Both are horrible and will eventually cause your VP44 to fail. Maybe tomorrow or maybe in a few years but when running the OEM fuel pumps, the VP will fail. This happens because both pumps have great tendencies to quit working or work but put out less fuel pressure than the VP needs to survive. If you really care about the reliability of your truck then get a pyrometer, boost, fuel pressure, and tranny temp gauge (if you have an auto). Those three (four) will seriously help you stay out of trouble. But back to the fuel pump, get a quality aftermarket fuel pump and set your fuel pressure so it never drops below 15 psi to keep your VP happy and cool.

But.....consider this too. You have a '99 truck and the VP44 injection pumps Bosch put out at that time were prone to poor quality control and suffered from galling which caused the piston to seize and break the pumps shaft. That situation is also increased by adding fueling and timing boxes.

wyododge

When your gauges get there you should do a quick rig up of your fuel pressure gauge, in the engine compartment right away. This will let you know where things are immediately so if you need a new lift pump you can get it on order. If things look good, all you have lost is an hour of time. Pretty well spent time I think.

Let us know how things look and when you get your install done post up some pics!!!

mrhemi

I wasn't putting in a plug for the intank pump, just related that in the end I had a positive out come of a situation that was forced on me. Irregardless, what ever you choose, it needs to be mounted at the rear so it is pushing fuel to the VP44 not sucking through a straw 8" long (engine mount).

Mr. Mike.

KATOOM

Dont worry. I'm sure no one thought that you were calling the in-tank a good thing. In reality, consider yourself better off that you got to go so long and not having to worry about all this garbage. I bought my truck because I wanted a reliable diesel that could tow whatever I connected to it. Well.....after joining a few of these forums all I really ended up with was a belly full of nerves since I could only think about the what ifs.

nkennedy

The VP-44 aren't that unrelieable. Just make sure you are feeding enough fuel pressure. A big line kit mounted on the frame goes a long way even with the stock pumps. A fuel pressure gauge should be a mandatory item on any 98.5 to 02 Dodge/Cummins. Make sure it's reading the pressure right at the input to the VP-44.

Ace

Nothing wrong with the in-tank. It's a reliable, proven solution. That's why they went to it. The FASS/AD setups are overkill for even a moderately well fueled truck.