Where are fuel lines that need checking/replacing
02-16-2007, 08:21 AM
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Where are fuel lines that need checking/replacing
Hey all, I took care of the KDP yesterday and I want to check the fuel lines b/c at 183K I don't think they have been checked/replaced. while I was dirty I was crawling underneath the truck but the only fuel lines that are rubber appear to be about 6-8" before filter? is this correct? I have hard metal lines from the tank to the filter except the last few inches? I'm not 100% certain b/c it stays in the crevices and it my be hiding on top of the frame and such.
HOW LONG IS THE RUBBER FUEL LINE THAT NEEDS INSPECTING/REPLACING AND IS IT ONLY WHAT GOES INTO THE FILTER?
ALSO WHERE IS THE OVERFLOW VALVE LOCATED? MY MPG IS 16 ON THE HIGHWAY AND THAT BABYING IT SO I WANT TO RULE OUT PROBLEMS B/C I DON'T HAVE THE MONEY TO JUSTIFY PERFORMANCE NOW. (REPAIRS ARE A DIFFERENT STORY)
HOW LONG IS THE RUBBER FUEL LINE THAT NEEDS INSPECTING/REPLACING AND IS IT ONLY WHAT GOES INTO THE FILTER?
ALSO WHERE IS THE OVERFLOW VALVE LOCATED? MY MPG IS 16 ON THE HIGHWAY AND THAT BABYING IT SO I WANT TO RULE OUT PROBLEMS B/C I DON'T HAVE THE MONEY TO JUSTIFY PERFORMANCE NOW. (REPAIRS ARE A DIFFERENT STORY)
02-16-2007, 11:55 AM
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No, there are more hoses to check other than the little shorties around the filter/pump/strainer..
If you check behind the head of your engine, behind the intake manifold side, right on the top of the bellhousing area of the tranny, you should see (-feel-) two rubber lines that run back and down towards two metal lines anchored close to the driver's side of the frame area. (I hope you have long arms)
The larger hose is the supply line(suction)and the slightly smaller hose is the excess fuel return back to the tank.
The larger one connects to a steel line on the back of the engine that runs to the fuel pump and fuel heater/strainer. This is the hose that when rotten, frequently sucks in air and causes much starting grief. (note Fig 3) http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1996/14-07-96.htm
The smaller hose is connected to the steel line comming from the P7100 Inj Pump overflow valve banjo fitting. That steel-to-hose connection is WAY up underneath the middle of the overhang of the intake manifold. It is not plainly shown on Fig. 3 of the TSB but that rubber line continues forward under the overhang of the intake manifold to the steel return line. (There is a cable clamp right at the rear of the intake manifold that makes pulling out that hose rather interesting!)
The smaller hose is the one that I lost while on an emergency trip up to Ft.Worth. It pumped out not quite 1/3 a tank of diesel all over my engine compartment and Interstate-35 before I happened to discover it at a rest stop.
I can tell you that little hose was no piece of cake to replace while standing on a curb in a parking lot in the dead of the summer working on a hot, slippery engine!
It is much better to do them both on YOUR time & place -vs- Murphy's!
There are other members that can post better diagrams of the fuel lines on the left side of the engine than I could locate, and hopefully they'll chime in with those...(Infidel?)
Also you can do a search on higher quality "diesel rated" or "Marine grade" rubber fuel hoses before you start this job. It's good know there's better hose out there for this PITA job.
FYI,... There are also some more short hose connections at the top of the tank you may want to consider someday. Since I have no personal experience with them(yet), I'll recommend you do a search about those. This is because there are different ways of getting to them and none appear all that easy from what I've read.
Oh BTW!... Congrats on your KDP assassination!!! Had it moved any?
K.
If you check behind the head of your engine, behind the intake manifold side, right on the top of the bellhousing area of the tranny, you should see (-feel-) two rubber lines that run back and down towards two metal lines anchored close to the driver's side of the frame area. (I hope you have long arms)
The larger hose is the supply line(suction)and the slightly smaller hose is the excess fuel return back to the tank.
The larger one connects to a steel line on the back of the engine that runs to the fuel pump and fuel heater/strainer. This is the hose that when rotten, frequently sucks in air and causes much starting grief. (note Fig 3) http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1996/14-07-96.htm
The smaller hose is connected to the steel line comming from the P7100 Inj Pump overflow valve banjo fitting. That steel-to-hose connection is WAY up underneath the middle of the overhang of the intake manifold. It is not plainly shown on Fig. 3 of the TSB but that rubber line continues forward under the overhang of the intake manifold to the steel return line. (There is a cable clamp right at the rear of the intake manifold that makes pulling out that hose rather interesting!)
The smaller hose is the one that I lost while on an emergency trip up to Ft.Worth. It pumped out not quite 1/3 a tank of diesel all over my engine compartment and Interstate-35 before I happened to discover it at a rest stop.
I can tell you that little hose was no piece of cake to replace while standing on a curb in a parking lot in the dead of the summer working on a hot, slippery engine!
It is much better to do them both on YOUR time & place -vs- Murphy's!There are other members that can post better diagrams of the fuel lines on the left side of the engine than I could locate, and hopefully they'll chime in with those...(Infidel?)
Also you can do a search on higher quality "diesel rated" or "Marine grade" rubber fuel hoses before you start this job. It's good know there's better hose out there for this PITA job.
FYI,... There are also some more short hose connections at the top of the tank you may want to consider someday. Since I have no personal experience with them(yet), I'll recommend you do a search about those. This is because there are different ways of getting to them and none appear all that easy from what I've read.
Oh BTW!... Congrats on your KDP assassination!!! Had it moved any?
K.
02-16-2007, 11:57 AM
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The area of the fuel lines that are most prone to leaking (sucking in air) are short sections from the injection pump to the firewall (return) and the lift pump to firewall (feed).
If you are going to get involed in replacing them you might as well go all the way to the fuel tank.
They change from steel to rubber in a few locations. the steel lines rot out and become prone to leaking as well. not to mention, as soon as you start to work on those old half rotted lines, they will be that much more prone to leaks due to messing around with them.
the overflow valve is on the top front right corner of the injection pump (sitting in the drivers seat). The valve is in the pump and is also the fastner for your return line banjo.
If you are going to get involed in replacing them you might as well go all the way to the fuel tank.
They change from steel to rubber in a few locations. the steel lines rot out and become prone to leaking as well. not to mention, as soon as you start to work on those old half rotted lines, they will be that much more prone to leaks due to messing around with them.
the overflow valve is on the top front right corner of the injection pump (sitting in the drivers seat). The valve is in the pump and is also the fastner for your return line banjo.
02-17-2007, 01:11 PM
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Thanks for the help! I'm going to check the local parts place and get the hose rounded up but I'm not as desperate to get it done as I was the KDP. So I'll wait till a warmer day! And I guess I'll just run it all the way to the tank...(I hope the line isn't very pricy). I still have my body lift on it b/c was hoping to remove it when the weather gets good anyway so I thought I'd take care of the fuel lines while I'll still have realtively good access to them!
I really appreciate the links to the tech articles! I love reading those and I'll print it out and go borrow a Fuel pressure guage just so I can see if the pressure is stable. I'd probably change the line anyway just cause its 183K old but it does get 16mpg and puff white smoke at startup in the two cold weeks I have had it!
As far as the KDP. its the only one I have seen and it was flush with the hole/rim and I couldn't get it to seat anymore so I am assuming that it hadn't moved. My main seal was leaking so I used that as an excuse to take care of it while into it.
On a side note my truck needs a ton of performance mods. b/c the PO put the banks wastegate on it ONLY! maybe the banks #4 fuel plate if he bought their kit but its had no tuning of the timing, air intake and has 3" straight pipe. So its probably restricted and needs to be done right.
I know I know...Guages first. so thats what it will be, then Airbox, GSK, Exhaust, injectors, and I'll grind my fuel plate and get the pump timing done. After that I'll need a clutch I'm sure but I need to take care of these maintaince issues like the fuel lines, KDP, vacuum pump leak first so I have a good platform to grow! Thanks for all the help! I look forward to help with the fun stuff as well!
JT
I really appreciate the links to the tech articles! I love reading those and I'll print it out and go borrow a Fuel pressure guage just so I can see if the pressure is stable. I'd probably change the line anyway just cause its 183K old but it does get 16mpg and puff white smoke at startup in the two cold weeks I have had it!
As far as the KDP. its the only one I have seen and it was flush with the hole/rim and I couldn't get it to seat anymore so I am assuming that it hadn't moved. My main seal was leaking so I used that as an excuse to take care of it while into it.
On a side note my truck needs a ton of performance mods. b/c the PO put the banks wastegate on it ONLY! maybe the banks #4 fuel plate if he bought their kit but its had no tuning of the timing, air intake and has 3" straight pipe. So its probably restricted and needs to be done right.
I know I know...Guages first. so thats what it will be, then Airbox, GSK, Exhaust, injectors, and I'll grind my fuel plate and get the pump timing done. After that I'll need a clutch I'm sure but I need to take care of these maintaince issues like the fuel lines, KDP, vacuum pump leak first so I have a good platform to grow! Thanks for all the help! I look forward to help with the fun stuff as well!
JT
02-17-2007, 05:25 PM
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Another solution if the lines are still good along the frame, is to still use those, then just go with rubber from the connection at the frame up to the hard lines at the engine.
Basically your removing the braided sections that start at the frame and go along the side of the tranny, eleminating the short solid pieces that connect the braided section to the short rubber sections that are the problem pieces.
It eliminates 3 connection points and the lousy quick connector connection point. I have a pic of the fuel lines connected at the frame in my photo gallery. It makes replacement a heck of allot easier and faster. KD
Basically your removing the braided sections that start at the frame and go along the side of the tranny, eleminating the short solid pieces that connect the braided section to the short rubber sections that are the problem pieces.
It eliminates 3 connection points and the lousy quick connector connection point. I have a pic of the fuel lines connected at the frame in my photo gallery. It makes replacement a heck of allot easier and faster. KD
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