maxx424

I’m having intermittent problems with a ’96 starting. Cranks like mad but no fire. It can sit for three days and fire right up and then sit at the BART station for a day and not. Finally get it going by turning off the ignition and then back on. Can take several times. Earlier it was suggested that that I should replace the fuel lines from the body to the engine. Got them from the suggested source (can someone remind me who that was) and after looking under and around finally found the hoses. Holy Crud!!! How in the world do you change those suckers out?

I’m beginning to think that it might be in the fuel shutoff. The solenoid was replaced some time ago and has a good boot on it. Perhaps the relay?

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Cary

clutch1

After you crank and no start is the solenoid in the up position?

maxx424

Good question - always has happened when I am alone and it has been dark. Does the solenoid acivate when the ignition is on or when you start to crank. If it is when the ignition is on then I can look next time.

TxDiesel007

that or check the blue wire that goes to it

from the left side battery, if its corroded it might mess ya up on that..

Now on replacing the lines, with alot of patience... Infidel suggests just runnin rubber lines to the tank, cause its much easier... somehow i tend to agree on that one, even tho i aint done it yet..

Rick

clutch1

You have a pull in voltage and a hold in voltage. When you turn the key to the run position you have hold in voltage if you want you could turn the key on and pull up on the sol. if it stays you have hold in voltage. If you crank and no start with the key left on, the sol. should be up if working properly.
You can check voltage while cranking on the middle wire at the sol. If the voltage is low it will not have enough to pull in. Mine would not work at 10v while cranking. As far as the lines, as TXDiesel007 said use rubber all the way. Good luck.

infidel

Don't fight it, replace with hose all the way from the engine to the tank. Not only is it easier but it will bypass any future leaks in the metal part of the system. They do happen.

John Faughn

I had similar problum , with the ing. in the on position , go under the hood and lif on the linkage at shutoff sol. and if it lifts it could be the relay on the firewall edge , drivers side , if you have 2 nearby each other , its the one with the larger wiress-it pulls 70 amps .
It could also be the bad connections at battery .
I found that I could lift the linkage and then turn the key the rest of the way to the start the eng.
I ended up taking the plastic off the relay and filling the points , that was 2 1/2 yrs. ago .

maxx424

OK - did it yesterday and had someone with me. Relay was down in the on position but poped up at crank so it started. Sounds like the relay should be in the up position with it just on.

Thanks for the advice on the fuel line.

Cary

clutch1

Well your solenoid will only pull up in the crank position middle wire 12volts. With the ign. just in the on or run position your solenoid will never move unless you lift it manually.

maxx424

Thanks - So that time it worked correctly. Appreciate all the feedback.

gorms

My 98 used to do the same thing-every now and then it would crank over no problem, just not start. The boot over the solenoid was in decent shape, so i just poked a small hole in it and squirted some white lithium in there, hasn't given me any problems in about 5 months now.

Daver43

This board is the best. My 95 that is new to me just pulled a crank and no start then start 5 minutes later as if nothing wrong ,for the first time. I am a tech but not a diesel guy(YET). First thing I thought of was some sort of fuel shut off solenoid. Looked here and WHA LA the probable answer is right here. Just 3 minutes of looking here. Did not even pop the hood just went right here. Thanks. Dave in Mesa,Az

infidel

Dave, it's easy to diagnose engine problems on a trusty 12 valve.
You can count the by far most common problems on one hand.

maxx424

I like the idea of the white grease inside. It finally did not start today and the wife was around to help. It is the shutoff relay that is not activating. I'll try the grease deal and then see if I need a relay or not. Going to do the grease deal now!!

kawi600

Ive got a similar problem suspecting leaks in the fuel lines. the shop suggested to install a bulkhead connector on the bottom of the tank and run push-lok hose and connectors from the tank to the engine compartment to avoid future hassle. It looks like the steel lines on top of the tank cap (Ive got the older steel lines Im told) might be corroded also.
Ive got a bunch of aluminum tubing which Im thinking about trying before I spend the $$$. Dont like the idea of cutting a hole in the bottom of the tank either.
Sadly I have no garage and its getting downright frigid out there now.