Front diff leaking in rear at front driveshaft?
#1
Front diff leaking in rear at front driveshaft?
I am pretty sure it is the seal in the rear of the front differential I just wanted to know how hard it is to change one of these things out? anyone had to do this and if so do you have ne tips on things I am going to run into and tools I will need to get the job done. Haynes did a wonderful number in explaining the process for a diesel, they didn't explain it. Ne help would be great thanks.
#2
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The official process gets pretty involved. The process my dealer used was simple, but a puller to remove the yoke would be needed.
1) Mark where the yoke and drive shaft should line up.
2) Disconnect the drive shaft from the yoke and tie out of the way.
3) Count the number of threads showing in front of the pinion nut.
4) Remove pinion nut.
5) Mark where the yoke should line up with the splined shaft it is mounted on.
6) Use puller to remove yoke.
7) Remove and replace pinion seal.
8) Clean and lube yoke where the seal rides.
9) Reinstall the yoke.
10) Reinstall pinion nut, tighten until the same number of threads is showing as in step 3 plus a little more.
11) Reinstall drive shaft.
12) Drink your favorite beverage.....
1) Mark where the yoke and drive shaft should line up.
2) Disconnect the drive shaft from the yoke and tie out of the way.
3) Count the number of threads showing in front of the pinion nut.
4) Remove pinion nut.
5) Mark where the yoke should line up with the splined shaft it is mounted on.
6) Use puller to remove yoke.
7) Remove and replace pinion seal.
8) Clean and lube yoke where the seal rides.
9) Reinstall the yoke.
10) Reinstall pinion nut, tighten until the same number of threads is showing as in step 3 plus a little more.
11) Reinstall drive shaft.
12) Drink your favorite beverage.....
#3
I did a writeup on replacing the front pinion seal in the Cummins Diesel Forum in the 3rd Gen Tech Articles. Here is a link to the article if it does not get removed. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...ment-pics.html
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#9
I have been out of town for a few days, so I could not get back to you right away.
You pull the axle shafts in order to get a correct rotational torque reading with an inch/lbs torque wrench. The seal that you are replacing is refered to as a pinion seal.
You pull the axle shafts in order to get a correct rotational torque reading with an inch/lbs torque wrench. The seal that you are replacing is refered to as a pinion seal.
#11
The reaction torque at the pinion flange should be pretty darned close to ZERO in-lbs if this truck has any miles on it. The new seal will probably have 4 to 6 in-lbs of reaction torque on it when new. Be very careful when changing a pinion seal this way as if you have no pre-load on the pinion bearings you're going to spend a lot more money fixing it the 'right way' later on. Dealer tech probably doesnt know how to do ti the correct way (and most dont in all honesty - or dont have the right tools).
Dont forget the get the correct sealent for the pinion flange-to-drive pinion splines. Must be done and when that interface leaks is looks just like a pinion seal leak.
Dont forget the get the correct sealent for the pinion flange-to-drive pinion splines. Must be done and when that interface leaks is looks just like a pinion seal leak.
#12
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If you've ever changed a pinion seal then it is the same. If you haven't then get someone to help. As said before if not done right you can really screw things up. I wouldn't trust a dealer to do this work.
#13
Never changed the pinion seal, and don't have ne one to help me im a fish out of water as I'm the only diesel junky around for miles, how do I go about pulling the axle shafts? and also what kind of sealant are you talking about?
#15
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Mine has been leaking a little for almost a 100k now. I just keep adding fluid at oil changes if needed. It can't leak it out enought to hurt things based on fill levels. Just my 2 cents.