Ram44maR

Howdy, all!

As the subject would suggest, I'm diving into my front disc stoppers for the first (on my truck). The wear indicators are reminding me of the score from the Exorcist, so it's certainly front brake pad time. As this is the first 4x4 I've ever done a disc brake job on, I'd appreciate some words of wisdom from some of the 2nd gen folks out there -- especially you '98.5 CTDers

One thing that comes to mind right away concerns the front (center) hub nut. As you know, it is very large, so I was wondering if it will be a [female dog] to get off?

Also, I'm being told that I MUST use an item called a POWER BLEEDER? I've always used the two-man pump the pedal and bleed method in the past. Can I get away with the cheap method in my case?

Anyway, I'd appreciate anything I can read as I go into this thing...and, forgive me if it's not the smatest question, but is there anything about the 4x4 drive works that makes this more complicated than a normal front disc job? (like those on a car)

Have a great day,
B

Geico266

If you are just replacing the pads you won't need to bleed it, and don't even think of taking off that big center nut. You can replace the pads easily. Just jack up the truck, remove the tire, remove the 2 caliper bolts on the inside of the caliper that hold it on. (3/8's allen wrench) You might need to spread the caliper part, but it will slip right off of the disc. Do not let it hang by the hose, get a piece of wire to hold it up. Spread it all the way open. (I use a C- clamp) install new pads. Clean and lube caliper bolts, inspect other parts and reinstall.

I've replaced a dozen sets of pads on mine. I can get it done now in about 20 min. unless the frig is out of beer.

Ram44maR

Thanks, Geico ;D

No gun to the head required, I didn't even see that big hub nut (lol). Seriously, though, I'm just used to doing the wheel bearing thing when I do discs. But, once again, you've got nearly 3x the miles, so who am I to buck experience?

I'm also surprised about not having to bleed the system as well...especially the part about being able to c-clamp the piston back far enough to accomodate new pads, WOW!

BTW, would you recommend anything special as far as the pads go? I've read some stuff about pads of a more modern compositon (assuming semi-metallic).

As one good turn deserves another, I was wondering if you had any fueling questions? I've been up and down that galaxy, so... Anyway, I noticed your signature and the part about the 3rd lift pump in particular.

Have a great one,
B

Geico266

Get the cheapest pads you can, and replace them when they need it. Don't buy the lifetime ones as they will eat up your rotors big time. Most of the "higher" dollar pads are a waste of money in my book. If they last longer they are wearing the rotors. I have 175K miles on the same set of rotors using cheap pads.

I put life time pads on my daughter's Camry and the rotors were shot in 20K miles. They had actually been worn down past the point of "no turning". The $25 set of pads looked good, but they cost me $200 in rotors. Do the math on that one!

smokeyram

I do the same as these guys are telling you, although I bleed mine every time.
I just use the 2 man method to bleed. One thing to watch, spray the hell out of the bleeder valve a few days prior to surgery.
The fastest way to ruin your day is to bend one off, even though the calipers are like $30.

And, despite what anyone tells you, leave those squeeler tabs on. First winter with my truck, between plowing and engine noise, I didnt hear the pads were shot, because some tool cut off the tabs. Ended up pushing the pistons all the way out THROUGH the cooling fins in the rotors.

That wasnt your run of the mill pad swap, been a breeze ever since.

jfpointer

Just loosen the top of the master cylinder and tighten the c-clamp slowly to avoid creating any bubbles in the master cylinder, and there should be no need to bleed on a simple pad change since you're not opening the system.

Geico266

Agree 100%

Be VERY careful using the C clamp to compress the caliper piston back into the caliper. Make sure you do not tear or puncture the piston boot. If it is torn or loose replace the caliper with a rebuilt one.

J BODY

If the rotors require machining I would highly recommend that you find a shop with a good on car lathe and have them do the work.

MasseyMan1089

Pray to god you dont have to change the rotors. What a nightmare. If you do, dont use a puller after you get the big nut off. When you pull, you seperate the whole bearing assembly. It goes back together, but that is the incorrect way of doing it... you mess up whte races, etc. You have to have the studs pressed out...

fschiola

I usually leave the old back pad in the caliper and run the C clamp into it instead of into the piston itself.

Timmay2

It wasnt all that bad when i did it... afew hours for two people learning as going along... I just used a sledge hammer to remove the studs.. beat them out.. then put them in the new setup and tightened nuts down on them to pull them back into their spot.

MasseyMan1089

thats gotta be hard on your studs. you didnt hit on the threads did you? I tired to use and impact to draw them in, but I found it to be wwaayy to hard on the stuff, so I pressed mine in. I just see it as a big pain in the butt, and a terrible patent...

royta

thread hijack (but why start a new one?) --

I believe my rotors are warped. I get the typical warped rotor feeling when I step on the brakes, and it will shake the front end of the truck after the rotors heat up. I generally do all of my own brake work, but it sounds like it's best to have the rotors turned on the truck. Is that basically the story, even with a 4WD?

Thanks for the advice.

Ram44maR

Thanks to all the posters!

That was, by far, the easiest pad change I ever did. If it weren't for those (8) lugs on each wheel, I'd of dozed off during the job.

One thing I found interesting, however, was the fact that my fluid level was perfect after I did the job. No matter how careful I was, I did lose some fluid out of the cylinder lid during clamping. Consequently, I was sure I was going to need some new fluid when the job was completed. To the contrary -- I needed none!

I guess the reduction in piston travel and, consequently, the reduction in fluid space would explain it? Anyway, the brakes haven't worked this well in years. I feel like I'm drivin' one of those nancy GMs [but only when I hit the brakes]

Thanks again,
B in NOLA

JDGnut

The early trucks must be different.. (I know the Joints are different has my ball joints are attached to the axle housing.. vs the earlier ones were on the spindle... ) To remove the rotor.. just remove the wheel, and the calip.. and the little locking washers if its the first time they have been off.. Just changed my a week ago... 153k on them.. (1k too many.) One rotor was damaged a little.. the other looked OK.. but was out of specs.. and that was the first brake job on the truck... New, upper and lower ball joints, pads, and disk... The disk really were cheap...
Bryan