Booboo

I know its been asked alot before but a search diden't give me a good answer.
So what kind of oil should I use and is oil for diesel realy different than gas.

bluebull

Gas and diesel rated oils are 2 different animals.
Diesel rated oils start with a "C" the latest is CI-4+ or CI-4plus. The diesel rated oils have a different additive package to help suspend soot in suspension, in other words keeps it from forming clump or bigger molecules which causes wear.

As far as what kind to use.
Where do you live? If cold climates such as sub zero temps for long periods of time then a 5-40 synthetic is a good choice. If you live in warmer climates a regular 15-40 oil will be more than adequite. Some guys will come on and say a synthetic will help the engine live longer, well there are plenty of trucks running around with over a million miles on them with just plain dino oil in them. haven't read about too many running that many miles with synthetics, not that they couldn't but not many guys running pure synthetics for that long.

edge600

Valvoline makes an oil called Cummins Blue. Its more expensive than Rotella or Delo, but I use it reguardless.

Javahjoeo

I started using Rotella (blue bottel) synthetic, at 34000 miles. The diesel ran smoother, and less engine noise. Was using Rotella Dino, 10-30. javahjoeo from Kokomo

Pig

Since you are in New Jersey, where temperatures may drop low in the winter, I'd run a 5w-40 during the winter months and a 15w-40 during the summer months. Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 is a good value for the winter, and Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 would be my choice for the summer.

If you have a block heater, running Chevron Delo 400 15w-40 year 'round may be sufficient.

Also, since its your first oil change, it may be adviseable that you have it done at a local service center as the filter may be difficult to remove.

ajpulley

I used a fluted oil filter cap-wrench, which ironically is the same size and number of flutes as the filters for my AMC Jeep Cherokee, to get the first filter off. It came off with no problems. Using the filter wrench cap will also make it so much easier for you as fas as getting to it. My dad has the first generation and still removes part of the turbo hose (I think that's what he said) to get a filter strap-wrench on his.

RDM16CTD

Does anyone know what kind of oil is installed by Dodge when the truck comes from the factory?

The Cummins website has an article about Valvoline Premium Blue being approved for extended change intervals, on their commercial engines. I'm thinking about using this oil at my first change coming up in a couple of weeks, and then sending a sample for lab analysis after 3,750 miles. If the analysis looks good, I'll go out to 7,500 miles and then sample it again. If it checks out OK both times I'll buy in to the longer interval. Has anyone done lab analysis with Premium Blue, to compare results when I get my results back? The dealer charges $20 more for using Premium Blue, but it may be worth it if it checks OK.

I can't see going longer than 7,500 miles or 12 months, whatever the lab says. I don't drive a lot of miles each year, and mostly in the summer when I can get the travel trailer on the road.

Also, why is the filter harder to get off at the first oil change?

This is a good forum, I appreciate all the tips I get from everyone.

Bob

ajpulley

If I'm not mistaken, the engines are delivered to Dodge with oil in them from the Cummins plant.

And, ever try to get your first lug nuts off for the first time? Same reason, though my filter wasn't that bad.

RDM16CTD

Do you think Cummins would give us the 'good stuff 'when they deliver a new engine to Dodge, or do they use something cheaper? Sometimes people talk about special 'break in' oil (not necessarily have I heard this about Dodge/Cummins) - do you think we get anything special when it's brand new?

So, they overtighten the oil filter? Know what you mean about the lug nuts, and I hate it. That's what torque wrenches are for!

Good points though - I think I'll let the dealer do the first oil change & tire rotation so if there's a problem they'll have to deal with it.

4x4not

I've been using 15W-40 Rotella T from the start. I will keep using it too. If truckers are running 1,000,000+ miles on the stuff, it can't be bad!

texaspower19

i run delo in my 06 and 97

rossn2

They are delivered with Valvoline Premium Blue 15w-40 dino oil.

http://www.valvoline.com/premiumblue/

If you're gonna run extended drain intervals, either with Dino or Synthetic, conduct UOA's, and install a bypass filtering system.

Pig

If memory serves me right, OEMs use some assembly lube upon assembly of an engine. After the crankcase is filled with oil, the small amount of assembly lube will be washed into the engine oil and "spike" the level of anti-wear additives (mainly ZDDP) to provide additional anti-wear protection during wear-in and up until the first scheduled drain interval.

This is the same reason why Honda requires their factory fill to be left in until the Maintenance Minder system recommends an oil change, which is usually 5-6000 miles.

As for Cummins factory filling with Valvoline Premium Blue, it is very unlikely. I don't see what benefit it'd give them to use Premium Blue as factory fill as they don't even print a Valvoline logo on the oil cap. They are probably using a 15w-40 CI-4 Plus rated HDEO, that varies by brand depending on the supplier.

Also, if I remember correctly, doesn't Cummins allow up to 15K drain interval under normal service? If so, that is plenty long for the extended drain interval crowd. I know of one person who uses their truck solely for towing heavy loads and runs 15K drain intervals with Delvac 1300S 15w-40 and the OEM filter, verified by oil analysis, and obtains good results. He has found no diffrence between the Rotella T 5W-40 Synthetic and the Delvac 1300S for his drain interval.

rossn2

"OEMs use some assembly lube upon assembly of an engine.."

Every engine builder uses some sort of lube on the engine bearings, pistons, rings, camshaft, etc. called Engine Assembly Lube. Some even use just Vasoline. It provids protection to the engine during initial firing.
The Oil Life Monitors you refer to are based on mathematical equasions. GM uses the same monitoring system. You really think the oil is being sampled?

Valvoline Premium Blue is a diesel-dino oil 15W-40. It is used by Cummins and Dodge on factory fills of the engines. The Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme is the 5w-40 synthetic. Both of these oil have gone through extensive testing by Cummins and it's what they recommend.

The 7500 vs 15k Oil/filter changes are either Schedule B or A. If you start the truck and stay on the highway until 15k then you fall within schedule A. But, if you're like most people, and do stop and go driving, you fall under the 7500 mile oil change, or Schedule B. Unless you have one of the older California engines, then it's 3000-7500 intervals. It's personal choice which drain interval you want to follow.

Pig

Of course the oil isn't being sample. However, GM is working on a system in the near future that'll allow for an oil condition sensor in the pan along with the onboard algorithm to determine the best drain intervals. VW is already using an oil condition sensor in their oil pans in Europe under a certain name (which escapes me at the moment). Mercedes uses a similar system (can't remember name) in other countries and it detects the electric current ??? or something in the oil as part of the process of detecting the correct drain interval. Most of the people I know are going about 6500-8000 miles in between drains with the GM OLM and they classified themselves previously as "severe service." I know of another person who went the full 12.5K allowed by the GM OLM in a 5.3L Silverado. He had an 8 mi commute daily on city streets at approx 45MPH.

Although I don't discount the superiority of oil analysis over a complex algorithm, be aware that not all labs are accurate. There can be quite a bit of variation in regards to results so its best to stick with one lab for more accurate "trending."

Whether you decide to use the OLM or not is ultimately up to the owner. It is validated for that particular engine design to allow for the particular characteristics of the engine (sump size, oil degradation rates, etc) and has been field tested for millions of miles. So, theoretically, it should be accurate.

Please show me where you read that. Not that I care what they factory fill with (unimportant as long as it meets specs), but I'm curious.

The person who I discussed earlier used his truck ONLY for towing trailers and runs 15K drains on Delvac 1300S 15w40 and the OEM filter...and he has his drains verified by oil analysis. Of course, its ultimately your choice.