greenwing

I need to get a jack that will pick the truck I guess, but what all do I need to do to find out what all I have wrong with my front end? I know how to check ball joints. I'm referring to other steering components like the track bar. Do I need the whole bar or just a bushing? Sway bar end links and what to check for that? Steering shock? Pretty sure I need new front shocks w/146,000 and leveling kit and I speculate original shocks! Don't think I have any wheel bearing issues but I know how to check that. It's some of the other stuff I'm unsure of. I have wander issues to some degree, play in the steering wheel, pulls to one side or the other, wheel is not straight when I drive straight, some clunking in rt. front on bumps and etc... a little bump steer.

My only thing is that right now I can only afford to fix what's WRONG because I'm planning a wedding and stuff and getting married in July so money is a little tight right now. I wish some of these parts stores had 0% for 12 months store credit like lowes and home depot. If they did, I'd buy a clutch too!!

greenwing

Uhh... nothing?

BRET LIVELY

I Just Put In New Shocks , Steering Stabilizer , Control Arm Bushings ( Poly Urathane ) , Sway Bar Bushings ( Again Poly Urathane ) , And Front End Alianment And With That They Should Adjust Steering Wheel Too, I Had Tha Same Thing With Mine . Check The Cambridge Also . I Still Have A Little Clacking Sound, But In Time I Will Find It . Also Check Your Brake Calipers For Lose , Or Just Sticking After Braking

Red3quarter

I was getting alot of bump steer in my truck so i recently replaced the Track Bar (was very loose on the balljoint end), replaced the steering stabilizer shock (it leaked a little fluid), and had a front end alignment. Now My truck handles a heck of alot better and no bump steer either. The next thing I'm going to do is a steer shaft, it has some slop in it.

greenwing

I too was thinking front shocks, steering stabilizer, track bar and sway bar repair kit that comes w/ the new link. I was wondering how you check control arm bushings? I hear of guys replacing those and basically I don't want to rip the truck apart and then 2 months later have to do it again to fix something I didn't the first time. Do you just look for the rubbers to be torn and pushed out??

BRET LIVELY

No I Just Replaced Them For Better Handling In Cornering And I Also Do Preventative Maintinance Before It Is Needed ( Every 100,000 To 120,000 ) But With The New Poly Urathane Bushings It Is Not Needed For Much Longer Than That .
We Used A 20 Ton Press To Get Them Out , It Was Very Easy With It

greenwing

I bet it was.

CL2000

With the truck off have some one shake the stearing wheel back and forth well you look at all the tie rod ends.If any of them have movement in them they are junk.Control arm bushings usly make a clunk when going foward to reverse.

greenwing

How hard are the control arm bushings to do? (If you don't have a 20 ton press in your home garage). Those are what I'm unsure of how to check... the rest I think I have a good idea, I just need a nice day to do it.

RowJ

With that mileage, your steering box could have slop. It's a weak like in our front ends. Strongly recommend Steering Stabilizer....will solve many of the problems you listed (and prevent replacing the expensive box down the road). That, along with Track Bar repair or replacement will do wonders!
http://www.solidsteel.biz/index.htm

RJ

CL2000

When I did my control arm bushings I got Energy suspesion bushings. if you use stock ones you have to press the metal sleve out which is a pain. (I would pay to have them done if using stock) With the energy ones I just melted the bushings out with a torch very ez 5-10 minutes a control arm. Just pull one control arm out at a time and you dont even have to jack the truck up.

greenwing

Did the steering stabilizer yesterday, and the trackbar and right inner tie rod? (connects to pitman arm) this afternoon. Noticeably better handling. Large improvement. Unfortunately, I checked the ball joints and they are junk as well. If I'm gonna do it I may as well do all 4 ball joints and the front axle u-joints while I'm at it.... Plus I need new front shocks.... I guess I better start saving huh?

-Ryan

greenwing

When I do the ball joints, is there any other parts I need to get? I plan on doing both upper and lower on both sides and the axle shaft u-joints while it's all apart. I guess I'm asking because I've done a ton of late model (1999-2006)Ford F-250 and F-350's and there is a seal that you basically have to destroy when you take it apart and pull the axle shafts out. I didn't know if the Dodge's were set up similar or not??? My truck will be my first Dodge ball joint job.

Thanks,
-Ryan

mo.redneck

Mine was the same way greenwing, i feel your pain. At 170k i had 4 ball joints, track bar, all the steering links, steering stablizer, and the only think i have left to change is the shocks. It takes time when you dont have a lot of cash off had. Since i have changed that i am waiting on steering shaft and shocks, but when i do that i am going to adjust the worm gear in my steering box. I have got off pritty easy compaired to some. I got some connections when it comes to parts and prices

pind

Greenwing, for what its worth, I have found that the easiest way to see what is wrong with the front end on these trucks, is simply look underneath. quick and painless, and you can be assured that everything you see... is wrong.

That being said, both front wheel bearings in less than 100,000km, at 160,000, 4 ball joints, outer wheel joints, all rear u-joints and hanger bearing, DSS / 3rd gen trackbar installed at 130,000, original track bar was done with a lukes link at 60,000km, and shim adjusted at 75, 95, and 105,000. Same time as the ball joints, new inner tie rod end was put in. Outer tie rod ends are still ok. Wonder of wonders. All four shocks have been replaced as well, with hydraulic units. These shocks work extremely well for this application.

At this point, the best thing I have done to the front end, is the DSS / Trackbar combination. took away that annoying pull to the right, and took a great deal of slop out of the steering. It doesn't make the truck a joy to drive, but it does make it tolerable.

A lot of $$$ in parts, did the work myself. ( Guess I'm a mechanic I can trust ) but at least it goes down the road without the banging, popping, wandering, and dare I say Dodging, that it did stock.

One thing I took the time to do, is make sure that all my front end parts are greaseable. The only thing that isn't are the bottom ball joints. I really have a hard time with that one. So it goes, at least the rest will last a little longer.