gunracer1

pin the motor at tdc, then pin the pump. that is how cummins does it. but it is not very accurate.

Jim Fulmer

TDC the motor using the drop valve method to find true tdc, then tdc the pump....pin it and pop the gear off and back the motor up to advance it.......3/8th's on an inch is about 2 - 2 1/2 degrees.

Jim

berner

If you're into crunching #'s, measure the diameter of your balancer, multiply that by pi (3.1416) to get the circumference. Divide that by 360. Take that # and multiply it by whatever degree you want your timing set to. This will give you the distance to mark the outside edge of your balancer.

Jim Fulmer

Thanks Berner......freakin brain, I must have been talking in class during that lesson, that is possibly the best info I have yet.

Jim

berner

[quote author=Jim Fulmer link=board=16;threadid=23186;start=0#msg217989 date=1070542545]
Thanks Berner......freakin brain, I must have been talking in class during that lesson, that is possibly the best info I have yet.
Jim
[/quote]

Your very welcome. I figured this out checking the marks a Diesel shop used to supposedly set my timing to 16*. The guy marked the balancer @ 15/16" from TDC. Calculates into 11.6*. I thought something wasn't right. I'm waiting for a DV socket to get here from Snap-On so I can set it myself.

Superduty12v

So turning the balancer 1.21" back counter-clockwise from TDC with the p-pump @TDC would be 15.5degrees advanced?

HammerMTB

If your pump is already timed at 9, 10, or 11 degrees, how will you know how much to move it? Answer is, you won't. In order to properly time it, you need to know where you are starting, then how much to move.
While I worked at Cummins NW, there were some overlays for front vibration dampers. They were marked for size, so you could choose the size to fit the engine. Then your front pulley was marked like a degree wheel.
All that, and you still don't know your pump static timing. You might determine what it "should" be. You will need one of 2 methods to precision time the engine. One is with the timng tools. These relate the P-pump's lift to timing. You can set timing from that and TDC on the engine.
The other method is to spill-port time the engine. To do this, you would need a pump to pressurize the P-pump. After removing the delivery valve and holder, you can find the beginning of injection on the pump. That would be set to your desired advance.
For my $.02, I think the dial indicator is easier and faster.
The spill port method can be "cheaper", but requires making your own tools.
Some may be able to listen to the engine and tell if it's too far advanced, but I don't like the idea of having trouble if its wrong. I'll take my time and get it really accurate, then rest easier knowing it won't bite me in the bu++ later.

HammerMTB

I just dug around in an old file box and found the paper with the vibration damper graduations. I will scan this into a file next week at work and put it in an available location so anyone that wants can d/l it and print one off their 'puter. Anyone know of some free web storage spot it would be accessible? I guess my webphoto account would do... :

berner

Is there some way of using a timing light after you've got your balancer marked? Seems to me I've heard someone mention this. Or did I get the wrong idea?

kd460

I have looked into this also. But have not adjusted my timing as of yet. (I want to be sure of my procedure before I do it)Was able to download a degree wheel off the net. I will see if I can find the link.

The question I have is gear lash. If using this method and moving the engine forwards and backwards to get to the right marks, won't gear lash be a factor and make the timing be off a little?

Let me look for that link, and think about the degree wheel procedure. I'd like to figure it out in my head before I do it. Kevin

Monty

[quote author=HammerMTB link=board=16;threadid=23186;start=0#msg218935 date=1070672643]
I just dug around in an old file box and found the paper with the vibration damper graduations. I will scan this into a file next week at work and put it in an available location so anyone that wants can d/l it and print one off their 'puter. Anyone know of some free web storage spot it would be accessible? I guess my webphoto account would do... :
[/quote]

Just send it to me at montydyer@yahoo.com and I will upload it to the server and post it in the 12v section of the tech facts.

kd460

Here is the link to the degree wheel. Follow the download instructions. It is a little small for the Dodge, but I just adjusted the size a little using my printer. I sent a copy of the adjusted size (9.25&quot to MONTY. Hope this helps, Kevin

http://www.machinerycleanery.com/Deg...lUniversal.htm

HammerMTB

[quote author=Monty(OkieBroncRider) link=board=16;threadid=23186;start=0#msg219120 date=1070719840]

Just send it to me at montydyer@yahoo.com and I will upload it to the server and post it in the 12v section of the tech facts.
[/quote]
I'll send you one, monty. That degree wheel form the 'net looks nice, but what I have is simpler, and there's sizes to fit several dampers on B & C engines. They are flat overlays for the perimiter of the damper. I tape them on in the position I want, then I have all the marks I need. Each timing strip is marked for the size damper it fits. It makes life pretty simple. All you gotta make is a pointer. I make them from coat hanger wire.

Jim Fulmer

Is there some way of using a timing light after you've got your balancer marked? Seems to me I've heard someone mention this. Or did I get the wrong idea?

I did this at Piers's shop the conversation went like......Jim you timing is high about 22 or 23 I'd say try the light.....after.....Jim what was the timing at....well 23 by the balancer and 23 by the light......Piers just smiled and said.....your learning!

Jim