LITTLE B

what is the easiest kdp fix i dont no if it has been done to my wifes 12 valve or not i am almost positive it hasn't so i would really like some input thanks everyone

TxDiesel007

I found the easiest way to be the actual KDP repair kit

from TST, But i know that some people swear by the KDP Jig kit, I know Infidel does, and if you PM him he can better help you with how to do it, i think its less than a 45 minute fix with a jig, and if you go with the TST kit, its about 3-4 hours, not a hard job tho..

More info below..

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...repair+TST+Kit

Rick

Ggg

I did the cross bolt method in about an hour, no jig I just eyeballed it.

KaBob

I've been reading about this kdp for weeks. If everyone knows this is a mfg defect, why isn't dodge or cummins warrantying this?

infidel

Because it would cost millions of dollars.

Use a jig if you want to go the totally adequate cheap and easy way.
Harold sells jigs for $30 -- Email address is rvhvnfn@juno.com or 208 850-8749

Anyone who says they can use the bolt block method without a jig is full of it. It would be like hitting a bulls eye from 100 yards blindfolded. For one thing the angle of the hole you drill is angled in two different directions in relation to the cover.

Here's a jig in action

Forrest Nearing

I think the best, cheapest, safest way to do it is to tab it...

if you drill and hit the pin, you've got to pull the front cover anyhow...

and the jig doesn't retorque and locktite the front cover bolts which have also been known to back out and get into the drive gears!

I put a new front crank seal on when I did mine, but other than that, it cost me 30 cents for a bolt, 15 cents for a fender washer, 5 minutes w/ the grinder to get the washer shaped right, some gray RTV and some locktite.

Ggg

infidel - I don't care for you telling me I am full of it, nor do I know what I did to you or anybody else to make you say something derogatory toward me. I have done three KDP's by eyeballing the bolt location, this isn't rocket science were doing here. I am not saying the kit you speak of is flawed or too expensive, it is a good kit from what I've seen and priced very fair. I was just saying it can be done without the jig thats all.

infidel

Ggg, sorry for saying you're full of it but my bet is you eyeballed in three bolts that totally missed their mark. Just hope a pin doesn't fall out and trash an engine to prove my point.

gorms

I'm thinking thats what all those tiny metal flakes (looked like metal flake paint) in my oil was a year ago. I pulled the valve covers to see if any damage had been done, none that I could see. Compression was right on, still starts perfect doesn't burn a drop of oil, so I'm hopin the pin just hit the right spot and ground up to nothing...kinda scary still. This was about 30k mi ago too.

somis13

you asked for the easiest not the cheapest. the one I used was the T.S.T. kit. and to this day is the only one I have done. Its totally easy and I feel 100% sure there will never be an issue with my trucks engine in that department. there instructions are super easy to follow and the kit gives you everything you need. and its only 50 bucks

kandgo

I have secured many many dowels and I gotta go with Bill on this one, If I was you I would go back and tab the three you state you did to have the peace of mind of knowing it is secured, and if one lets loose on one of the two that are not your truck would be a sad day for the owners of them two. Goodluck,,Rick

kandgo

There needs to be a dowel pin in the housing to keep it from moving, You might want to go in anyway and tab it and if it is indeed not there install one. I have seen two that went to the pan and did no dammage at all, that is what I consider very very lucky. The TST kit is a great kit and if the truck has over 100k the seal needs changing out anyways and for the peace of mind it is priceless. Goodluck,, Rick

Ggg

I don't do shotty work and would never let someone elses truck let alone my own go out with my name associated with poor work. All three were confirmed to have been properly placed.
kandgo - I agree the dowel should be there, but a dowel does not hold location but rather establish location. The bolts holding the parts together hold location. So long as the bolts remain tight the parts should not lose their location. To properly install a dowel after the parts have been assembled, they must be loosened if not disassembled depending on the stiuation to allow the dowel to establish the location. Otherwise you will just be forcing a dowel into two mismatched holes causing one or both to crack, or elongate.

Forrest Nearing

the pin does hold the case... otherwise, why do we see cracked timing cases once the pin backs out?

infidel

The case cracks because there isn't enough clearance between the gear and case for a loose pin to pass by. It always cracks in the same place, under the fan pulley, because that's where the tightest clearance is.

Common misconception that the dowel pins are only there for assembly. The bolt holes have too much slop to keep the case properly aligned, that's the reason there are two dowel pins.

Ggg, if you have confirmed that the blocking bolt is in the right place you would have to remove the front cover.
Why even bother with the bolt method if you're removing the cover?
That's the whole point about using a jig, so you don't have to take everything apart. The only way a person could eyeball the correct location and angles for the blocking bolt is with the cover off. Even then it wouldn't be that easy. Seems sort silly to drill into the case if you have the cover off and can either tab or peen over the dowel hole.

I feel you are doing a disservice to the readers here suggesting the eyeball method and that they shouldn't even consider it even if you have apparently lucked out.