Dual tanks on 350s dually - questions
#1
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Dual tanks on 350s dually - questions
Hi all:
The 92 W350 I recently bought has two fuel tank trap doors, and a 30-gal tank longitudinally positioned between the rear axle and the cab, and there should be another one back from the rear axle, but in my case, it's gone!
The part is discontinued - of course - and I'm having a hard time finding one in a junk yard, not to mention the sending unit and the filler hose. Has anyone come up with solutions for a similar issue (I do not wish to put a tank in the bed behind the cab)?
Thanks y'all.
The 92 W350 I recently bought has two fuel tank trap doors, and a 30-gal tank longitudinally positioned between the rear axle and the cab, and there should be another one back from the rear axle, but in my case, it's gone!
The part is discontinued - of course - and I'm having a hard time finding one in a junk yard, not to mention the sending unit and the filler hose. Has anyone come up with solutions for a similar issue (I do not wish to put a tank in the bed behind the cab)?
Thanks y'all.
#2
Registered User
With a little fabrication, a Ramcharger tank will bolt in behind your rear axle. If you get one from a fuel injected RC, you can remove the "fuel module" and replace it with a sending unit from a Cummins powered pickup.
#3
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I would immagine with all the parts as if u were to put one in a ramcharger (tank, fillerneck, straps) it would bolt right in. You can do the same thing with Ford pickups and fullsize broncos. You will need to purchase and modify a pick assembly, or build one.
I never knew we had a 2 tank option, NEVER seen it.
I never knew we had a 2 tank option, NEVER seen it.
#4
Registered User
I haven't heard of a factory option of dual tanks either but what the heck, if the trap door is there it needs a tank.
You might be able to utilize the selector valve from a 1987 thru 1996 Ford. It is electric and I believe it has vent and return line ports. The Ford rocker switch could also be used and that would enable you to switch between sending units as well. I have thought of doing the same thing until I think how long I would be in the saddle driving 800 miles between fill ups. You know how it is. Once you get rolling you can't stop until you absolutely need too.
You might be able to utilize the selector valve from a 1987 thru 1996 Ford. It is electric and I believe it has vent and return line ports. The Ford rocker switch could also be used and that would enable you to switch between sending units as well. I have thought of doing the same thing until I think how long I would be in the saddle driving 800 miles between fill ups. You know how it is. Once you get rolling you can't stop until you absolutely need too.
#5
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Yeah, that was my first thought! I used to run 4-500 miles on a tank, i cant immagine 8-1000 miles!!!
Yep the Ford tank selectors have return and supply for both tanks. When they work. lol. I was fortunate enough mine worked, n made life a lot easier on me when i was driving that truck. I dont think they are that much either.
Yep the Ford tank selectors have return and supply for both tanks. When they work. lol. I was fortunate enough mine worked, n made life a lot easier on me when i was driving that truck. I dont think they are that much either.
#6
Registered User
Don't Fall Into The Electric-selector Pit
More fuel is more better.
My Ford has three tanks = 20 + 20 + 52 = 92 Gallon capacity.
I had four (the original and three replacements) electric fuel-selector valves lay down on me in un-handy places.
They won't give any symptoms, or warnings; they will simply let you run out of fuel, in an intersection, usually with a trailer, when you still have plenty of fuel.
For many years, my truck has had TWO manual selector-valves, one for the draw-lines and one for the returns.
The two factory tanks have gauges that I wired through a DPDT switch, right next to the fuel-valves, facing fore and aft; I flip the switch forward for front tank, and rearward for rear tank.
I gauge the big 52-gallon with a "rived-out" "tabacker" stick, notched at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and FULL.
If you can rig a gauge on the whichever rear tank you choose, so much the better; but, a gauge on the extra tank is not a complete necessity.
The most likely to fit is an old Ramcharger tank, or you can fold some aluminum, and make your own.
My Ford has three tanks = 20 + 20 + 52 = 92 Gallon capacity.
I had four (the original and three replacements) electric fuel-selector valves lay down on me in un-handy places.
They won't give any symptoms, or warnings; they will simply let you run out of fuel, in an intersection, usually with a trailer, when you still have plenty of fuel.
For many years, my truck has had TWO manual selector-valves, one for the draw-lines and one for the returns.
The two factory tanks have gauges that I wired through a DPDT switch, right next to the fuel-valves, facing fore and aft; I flip the switch forward for front tank, and rearward for rear tank.
I gauge the big 52-gallon with a "rived-out" "tabacker" stick, notched at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and FULL.
If you can rig a gauge on the whichever rear tank you choose, so much the better; but, a gauge on the extra tank is not a complete necessity.
The most likely to fit is an old Ramcharger tank, or you can fold some aluminum, and make your own.
#7
I was lucky enough to find a used 50 gal. aluminum tank from a boat that got wrecked in Katrina for $50. It fit perfectly under the toolbox:
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_65.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_66.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_67.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_65.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_66.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_67.jpg
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#8
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I was lucky enough to find a used 50 gal. aluminum tank from a boat that got wrecked in Katrina for $50. It fit perfectly under the toolbox:
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_65.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_66.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_67.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_65.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_66.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_67.jpg
on the rear mounted tank deal. even the parts catalog for 92 truck doesn't show a rear mounted tank for the d1,2,3 series trucks. it does naturally show one for the 4,8 series (2wd and 4wd ramchargers). if it's factory, thats a really rare deal you've got there. the ramcharger stuff should work just fine. just make sure you get the later plastic tank.
daryl
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I was lucky enough to find a used 50 gal. aluminum tank from a boat that got wrecked in Katrina for $50. It fit perfectly under the toolbox:
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_65.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_66.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_67.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_65.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_66.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_67.jpg
#10
Adminstrator-ess
Hi all:
The 92 W350 I recently bought has two fuel tank trap doors, and a 30-gal tank longitudinally positioned between the rear axle and the cab, and there should be another one back from the rear axle, but in my case, it's gone!
The part is discontinued - of course - and I'm having a hard time finding one in a junk yard, not to mention the sending unit and the filler hose. Has anyone come up with solutions for a similar issue (I do not wish to put a tank in the bed behind the cab)?
Thanks y'all.
The 92 W350 I recently bought has two fuel tank trap doors, and a 30-gal tank longitudinally positioned between the rear axle and the cab, and there should be another one back from the rear axle, but in my case, it's gone!
The part is discontinued - of course - and I'm having a hard time finding one in a junk yard, not to mention the sending unit and the filler hose. Has anyone come up with solutions for a similar issue (I do not wish to put a tank in the bed behind the cab)?
Thanks y'all.
#11
That last pic (#67) shows basically how the aux tank portion is plumbed and wired. It pulls through that filter and the selector valve goes to either the engine or an electric auxiliary pump mounted outside the toolbox. It is used for manual transfer through a hose with a shutoff valve kept coiled up between the tank and bedside. I use that to transfer kerosene and empty the last few gallons of #2 into the stock tank. It pulls air going around left turns if it gets too low. Here are some more pics showing the front side of the Orwellian contraption I call my fuel system:
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_112.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_96.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_95.jpg
The selector valve shown mounted on the frame behind the LF wheel selects either the stock tank or auxiliary tank for engine feed. There is no auxiliary return - both feeds return to the stock tank. The way it works is I switch to the aux tank and run for around 150 miles or so until the stock tank is refilled, by which time the aux tank is down near as low as I care to run it. The Edelbrock pump is a 150gph/12psi electic unit plumbed in parallel with the piston pump, shown in the last pic (#95) above. It will eventually be used to help feed some big EDMs someday, but serves as an emergency backup and easy priming method for filter changes in the meantime. That plastic check valve shown in the pic has since been replaced with a nice sight flow glass. It doesn't draw enough to even move the paddle with my current fueling.
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_112.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_96.jpg
http://72.19.150.167/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_95.jpg
The selector valve shown mounted on the frame behind the LF wheel selects either the stock tank or auxiliary tank for engine feed. There is no auxiliary return - both feeds return to the stock tank. The way it works is I switch to the aux tank and run for around 150 miles or so until the stock tank is refilled, by which time the aux tank is down near as low as I care to run it. The Edelbrock pump is a 150gph/12psi electic unit plumbed in parallel with the piston pump, shown in the last pic (#95) above. It will eventually be used to help feed some big EDMs someday, but serves as an emergency backup and easy priming method for filter changes in the meantime. That plastic check valve shown in the pic has since been replaced with a nice sight flow glass. It doesn't draw enough to even move the paddle with my current fueling.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've attached two pictures that show:
1.) the second trap door; I've read replies mentioning that there never was a dual tank option. It's possible, and if this one is body shop work, it was pretty well done.
2.) the underside of the truck; shows where the second tank was fitted, and the electric device along with the line.
Since this is the first time I attach pics it may not be successful...
Thanks for your replies.
1.) the second trap door; I've read replies mentioning that there never was a dual tank option. It's possible, and if this one is body shop work, it was pretty well done.
2.) the underside of the truck; shows where the second tank was fitted, and the electric device along with the line.
Since this is the first time I attach pics it may not be successful...
Thanks for your replies.
#13
That's not factory - but good job on the bodywork, like you said. Looks like they have an old style Walbro electric pump (probably a WEP-21 or similar) with a gasser fuel filter drawing fuel out of the Ramcharger tank. You should trace that fuel line out and try to see where it goes (or went). Can't imagine how that would work on the Cummins. It's plugged now, so I'd wager they have it tee'd into the primary fuel supply somewhere. Plenty of opportunity for something to go wrong there, if that's the case. Better get that sorted out before something comes loose and it starts sucking air.