Geets

I'm hearing this noise from the front driver's side wheel. Checked the brakes and they are fine. When I turn the wheel it amplifys the noise a bit. I had a place check it out and they said it should be the u-joint.
Does everyone agree?

I heard that these are a pain to change is that true? Anybody have this documented anywhere on how to do it?

Also the dealer wants $105 for the u-joint and they aren't even greasable!!
I saw on Napa's website that they are going for $13.49 and they have a grease fitting. Could this be for real this much of a difference? Or is Napa's site giving me a wrong part #?

Thanks,
Steve

John Faughn

go to an after market shop and get a quote, if it dosen't have a grease fitting its both good and bad , you can'nt maintain it but it is stronger, the next is you must be looking at the wrong one at napa[ do not just pick the cheapest ] becouse when it fails and you fix it again that means that it coat twice as much, have them order a spicer , they had a reputation as being stonger , the price is varyble ,retail or any discount you may get but if it between 50-90 your most likly getting the right one , it sounds like you haven't done much wrenching so this my not be a job to start with unless you get someone thats done it before. If you can get a quote for about 200-300 it would be a fair price for a shop and you , now plan on the other side in the near future.

Geets

Is it normal for them to wear out at 41000 miles? I don't beat on the truck and it never goes off-road. Anyone else have this problem?

I am also pretty good at wrenching just haven't done this before. I did a search and seomone said they were able to replace them without taking the rotor off and the shaft out of the axle. Anyone else try this?

I don't mind paying to get the job done but I hate not knowing if it was done right. That's why I do everything myself....

PourinDiesel

The U joint for the front axle is a 464 Precision IIRC.
I paid $33 each on www.rockauto.com for mine.

Geets

Any feedback or tips on how you installed them?

John Faughn

Me again , the claim about doing it without taking it apart sounds like a magic trick , it looks like mgeic but theres a trick to it , if you have a lead on it I'ld like to see it, but for now I'll try to answer your ? some tools make it easyer , a shop press , u- joint press , a slidehamer wheel puller, the fewer of these you have the harder it is , 1st a socket 1 11/16 or 1 13/16 for the axail nut tq. to 130 ft lbs., after the nut is off then there are 4 bolts on the back side [12 point] that hold the ft, hub bearing in ,with out the slidehamer you losen those , but make sure to have enough threads to take the pressure of either hamering or some guys use the power stering and something that fills the gap and push the bolts and the hub out evenly , once you've reached the limit of what the bolts will do you mite find ones that are the same size but longer to finish pushing out , then just pull the axial out and remove the clips holding the cups inplace and press out the old and put it all back to gether.

Geets

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...hlight=u-joint

This is the thread, read into it and you will see Redneck talk about changing them without taking it apart.

John Faughn

Now I've seen the magic and the trick , I vaguely remeber doing something like that yrs ago [ I used to have a mobile repair bis a while back ] and found some of my own magic tricks, I wish that I would have remembered that one when I did mine last spring and thought to give it a try , the thing that occures to me is that its so easy to get the needle bearings out of place that those are such tight quarters that would increase the odds of getting a needle in the bottom of the cup that I might prefur to do it the regular way. but I'll try to elaberate on his idea, removing the tie rod to make more room then a combination of turning the wheel around and left to right will give you more access to remove the clips that hold the cups inplace then using a hammer and broad punch to push the cup & joint out the other side and go all four ways untill the all cups are out then it may be possible to remove the joint, now put the joint in without the cups on then push the cups onto the joint one at a time from the outside being carefull not to knock a needle out of place then put the clips in , at the end use a narow punch to tap the joint in all four directions to releave the pressure on the cups that was put there when you hit the cups far enough to get the clips in. Does that help ?

Greenhornet1986

Here, off another truck site, is an idea of what you're up against(not totally the same thing, cause they are also replacing the hubs, but you can see the jist of things) http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.php

roadrat

Not sure about the 03 but my 04 has powertrain warranty for 7yrs or 115000km (70000miles) U joints are covered with $100.00 deductible after the 3yr 60000km (36000miles) expires. I am pretty sure yours is the same, i would check it out first. Just had mine done on the rear driveshaft, both ends, and only paid the $100.00. If you get it done under warranty make sure they fix everything, you only pay the deductible once,or per visit.

rob

doorguy

Just did my left one yesterday. Everything came apart the way it should and that was the first u-joint I had to take the smoke wrench to and cut the spider out so I could press the cap in ward to remove they would not press outward.

Geets

According to dodge.com this should be covered as roadrat pointed out. I called the dealer and of course they have no clue and have to check with my VIN number to make sure. That cracks me up, it's right there on Dodge's website, you enter your year and vehicle and they shoot you to a .pdf file that explains in detail everything that is covered.

Thanks a bunch roadrat for bringing this to my attention!!!

I will update when I hear back from the dealer.

roadrat

Your welcome, don't know if you have the owners book that came with the truck but if you do it's on page 403, at least that's where it is in my 04 book.

rob

kayjh

Are you sure this is a U Joint? Is the squeeking sound constant or just when you turn the wheel? Does it occur when driving over bumps? Does it get worse when it is raining out or when it is dry?

I have had a recurring problem with squeeking in the same area. Every time I take my truck in to the dealer, the problem is diagnosed as sway bar bushings. Sometimes they lubricate them and sometimes they replace them. It seems to be worse when it is dry out and will only squeek when on an irregular surface or driving over bumps (spped bumps are the worst).

I've also had problems with my U Joints (pulsating steering wheel when turning), but never hear any squeeking or creaking when driving in a straight line. After having the U joints replaced under warranty, the left front squeeking remained.

I'd have the dealer look at the bushings, but it won't do much good. Unless there is an aftermarket bushing, you may have a recurring problem. Anyone else with this bushing problem?

redneck1

I just replaced my dreverside axle bushing a month ago. Symptoms were the same as yours. There is a way to replace the u joint with out removing the hub. I did it. I bought the dealer on for $105 as no others were available where I live. It does not take that long to do it. ASbout 2 hours and a six pack.