pluguglyinhere

Well I wanted a level truck for normal driving, bought some coild spacers and they worked great. Truck was level, and I figured when I hooked up my 5er it would squat so I bought some rear air bags I wanted anyway. Everything was fine excpet even with 5er hitch lowered, the 5er still ran nose high. I can not travel like this and I tow it a lot, it was scraping the rear of the 5er everywhere.
So I decided to take out the coils spacers, and have the rear blocks (factory) removed from the springs so it would sit more level normally. I figured then my bags would compensate when needed. Dodge said no, to removing them because it would cause drive line issues, they had done it for customers and will not anymore because of the problems. Now what, how do I lower my rear a little?

FYI

Yes I have the hitches in the lowest settings, I have looked at raising the camper better for me to lower the truck, and I have adjusted my air bags ( actually hooked up with no air and it is nose high still).

Smkndzl

I could understand that thought from Dodge if the spacer were wedges instead of just blocks, then the driveline angle would change. but they are just blocks, mine have been off for the last 55,000 miles and no problem at all with towing or normal driving, I did it myself. not that hard.

NJMurvin

If it were me, I'd reconsider lifting the 5er. That's what I did. For me, it was a simple axle flip (axle under leafs instead of on top). It only cost me about $200 total (kit plus install). With one exception, I like it better being higher (easier to get to drains, etc.). That exception is the step. I replaced the step before I did the lift (because the old one sucked). Had I known, I would have installed a step with increased rise between steps. That would make entry/exit a bit easier. As it is, unless I park next to a slab, I have to add a platform at the bottom of the last step. But, if you're planning ahead, just get the right steps to begin with.

pluguglyinhere

I have priced out raising my 5er, and it will be kinda pricey because of the the equlaflex. The equaflex has no lower mounting holes, and my axles are already flipped from the factory.

I also want the truck to sit level normally which would be real close unloaded. I have airbags when loaded so should be fine. I did some searches and found a lot of people that have removed the rear leaf spacers with no problems. I can not figure out what Dodge is talking about, it causing drive line chatter. If you drive with a load it could be lowered that much and then should cause chatter too. We are only talking 2 inches tops.

gpshemi

I've seen threads where people pull the spacers out. I wouldn't do that though. I'd make the 5vr right and lift it to match the TV. It's not that hard to do right. I've seen people take the cheap route and add blocks to the axles, but I would NOT do that. On hard turns the axles twist the frame already. Adding blocks just gives it more leverage to tweak the frame. Jump over to RVNet and post there. Ton's of guys there have leveled various combos. We'll fix ya up.

morpheus

Larger wheels/tires?

gpshemi

You can do larger wheels and tires if there's room in the wheel well. Typically there isn't though. On that note, if you have 15" wheels, you'll get a better ride on the 16", and you'll have way better choices for tires on the 16". Hard to find a decent 15 tire for a 5vr really.

mr.mindless

or remove the lift blocks and put in shims to correct the driveline angle.

txarrowhunter

Have you considered a 2wd?

1-2-3

Alot of folks also make a square tube subframe. Easy to do. Like a new boxed frame that goes between the current mounts and the frame.

FishingFather

Moved my spacers from the bottom to the top, and reused the same u-bolts. Never had a problem and that was about 70,000 miles ago. Truck sits closer to level and is perfect pulling the boat. I don't see where that minute a change has that great of an effect on the driveline angles. Just MHO.

pluguglyinhere

Well I lowered the rear yesterday. I measured the pinion angle, and drive shaft angle at two points before and after the project. I took out the three spacers under the spring pack (mine had three I see from searching that some have two). This lowered the truck 1 and 3/4 inches at the wheel well and 1 and 7/8 inches at the rear bumper.
It looks as level now as it did with the front coil spacers in. There was a right up at DTR that helped alot. My drive line angles did not change one degree at all and seems to be driving without any problems. I can see that if you have a drag or sled pulling truck that having the rake or higher rear may help. I assume all the novas and trans ams from the 70s did it for traction too when they jacked up the rear. It worked great for me, was labor intensive doing it alone but not a major project. I would add to any tech write ups to soak things down with penetrating spray often and well in advance. I need to still hook up the 5er and see if it solved my problem there, it had to make a positive change from where it was if the truck is lower.

st.rodder2

I remove 1 of the blocks and put it on top. The truck sits fairly level with the 5'er hooked up. Sits about an inch high w/out a load. Didn't change the ride at all and feels like it tows better. Took about an hour to do both sides using air tools. hardest part was removing the 2 bolts that hold the spacers in (one of Mopars better ideas - headless bolts ).

BLACKBEAR

Sounds like the fifth wheel hitch is set wrong in the truck. Or you have the trailer loaded wrong.

gpshemi

Black bear you're assuming there's adjustment to the hitch. My Pullrite doesn't have any adjustment. It is what it is. You can alter the pin, the truck, or the 5vr to level out the combo. Personally I'd alter the 5vr before the truck, but to each his own I understand.