Dodge Ladder bar question
#1
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Dodge Ladder bar question
wondered if anyone on here has seen these or is runnning these ladder bars.
I dont want to weld to my rear axle so i was thinkin bout these instead!
http://www.ultimateautoaccessories.c...PROD/LDR/30998
I dont want to weld to my rear axle so i was thinkin bout these instead!
http://www.ultimateautoaccessories.c...PROD/LDR/30998
#3
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That type ladder bar may do some good but is not ultimately a good unit. It will still allow the springs to become S shaped
Here's a good article for ya...
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/
Here's a good article for ya...
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/
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That type ladder bar may do some good but is not ultimately a good unit. It will still allow the springs to become S shaped
Here's a good article for ya...
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/
Here's a good article for ya...
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/
#6
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very good read. Check out the Lazarsmith traction bars. They are a single bar mounted under the spring, which according to that article is still "only somewhat" effective at eliminating axle wrap because they depend on the spring to be rigid for triangulation. Probably the best youll find for our trucks though, i bet our springs are pretty rigid. I still wonder about the binding issue though....
wonder if we have enough room for ladder bars, probably not.
wonder if we have enough room for ladder bars, probably not.
#7
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The stock suspension is pretty good (not great) in just about all situations. It doesn't do anything really well, but doesn't really suck at 95% of the expected uses.
Once you start making mods to favor one capability, you start to lose others. You're trading one capability for another. You could make it lauch really well at the drag strip, but then you lose off road articulation and weight carrying capacity. You have to decide how much you're willing to trade off.
Carol Shelby developed the under spring traction bar for the Mustang back in the 60's. The idea had been around for a while, not never used on a "production" vehicle. They worked pretty good then. Still work pretty good now. They allow full and independant articulation, but do prevent axle wrap AND help with weight transfer. I installed them on my '65 Mustang coupe, and they really helped.
Ladder bars should never be used with leaf springs. The leaf springs try to move the axle up and down, while not changing the pinion angle. But the ladders try to move it in an arc, along with trying to change the pinion angle to match the arc. You'll get very little axle movement before it binds enough to break the weakest link.
IMO, ladder bars should never be used on a street vehicle. Their only real application is a drag strip only vehicle. If you get enough axle movement to absorb street bumps, you'll get enough change in pinion angle to cause binding.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...e/cee-2005.jpg
Once you start making mods to favor one capability, you start to lose others. You're trading one capability for another. You could make it lauch really well at the drag strip, but then you lose off road articulation and weight carrying capacity. You have to decide how much you're willing to trade off.
Carol Shelby developed the under spring traction bar for the Mustang back in the 60's. The idea had been around for a while, not never used on a "production" vehicle. They worked pretty good then. Still work pretty good now. They allow full and independant articulation, but do prevent axle wrap AND help with weight transfer. I installed them on my '65 Mustang coupe, and they really helped.
Ladder bars should never be used with leaf springs. The leaf springs try to move the axle up and down, while not changing the pinion angle. But the ladders try to move it in an arc, along with trying to change the pinion angle to match the arc. You'll get very little axle movement before it binds enough to break the weakest link.
IMO, ladder bars should never be used on a street vehicle. Their only real application is a drag strip only vehicle. If you get enough axle movement to absorb street bumps, you'll get enough change in pinion angle to cause binding.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...e/cee-2005.jpg
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#8
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The stock suspension is pretty good (not great) in just about all situations. It doesn't do anything really well, but doesn't really suck at 95% of the expected uses.
Once you start making mods to favor one capability, you start to lose others. You're trading one capability for another. You could make it lauch really well at the drag strip, but then you lose off road articulation and weight carrying capacity. You have to decide how much you're willing to trade off.
Carol Shelby developed the under spring traction bar for the Mustang back in the 60's. The idea had been around for a while, not never used on a "production" vehicle. They worked pretty good then. Still work pretty good now. They allow full and independant articulation, but do prevent axle wrap AND help with weight transfer. I installed them on my '65 Mustang coupe, and they really helped.
Ladder bars should never be used with leaf springs. The leaf springs try to move the axle up and down, while not changing the pinion angle. But the ladders try to move it in an arc, along with trying to change the pinion angle to match the arc. You'll get very little axle movement before it binds enough to break the weakest link.
IMO, ladder bars should never be used on a street vehicle. Their only real application is a drag strip only vehicle. If you get enough axle movement to absorb street bumps, you'll get enough change in pinion angle to cause binding.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...e/cee-2005.jpg
Once you start making mods to favor one capability, you start to lose others. You're trading one capability for another. You could make it lauch really well at the drag strip, but then you lose off road articulation and weight carrying capacity. You have to decide how much you're willing to trade off.
Carol Shelby developed the under spring traction bar for the Mustang back in the 60's. The idea had been around for a while, not never used on a "production" vehicle. They worked pretty good then. Still work pretty good now. They allow full and independant articulation, but do prevent axle wrap AND help with weight transfer. I installed them on my '65 Mustang coupe, and they really helped.
Ladder bars should never be used with leaf springs. The leaf springs try to move the axle up and down, while not changing the pinion angle. But the ladders try to move it in an arc, along with trying to change the pinion angle to match the arc. You'll get very little axle movement before it binds enough to break the weakest link.
IMO, ladder bars should never be used on a street vehicle. Their only real application is a drag strip only vehicle. If you get enough axle movement to absorb street bumps, you'll get enough change in pinion angle to cause binding.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...e/cee-2005.jpg
anyone on here run full ladder bars on there daily street driven trucks?
Help please!
mark
#10
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I drive my truck every day with my Lazarsmith Traction Bars. Don't know if this is what you are looking for. I like them alot. Puts the power to the ground and eliminated any axle wrap. There was a video of my truck on dyno with the rear wheels moving forward maybe an inch or more...but I can't locate it now. But the axle doesn't move now.
I use my truck for daily driving (117K currently), towing my toyhauler, occasional drag race and sled pull. The traction bars do nothing but help any of the above as far as im concerned. Hope that helps.
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