How do you change a Fuel filter on a 1998 DODGE RAM 2500
05-04-2006, 11:50 PM
#1
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How do you change a Fuel filter on a 1998 DODGE RAM 2500
How do you change a Fuel filter on a 1998 DODGE RAM 2500,it would be nice if someone had pictures on how to do it. I found a step by step guide with pictures at this website http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm, but the procedure on how to do it on the 1998 to 1999 DODGE RAM 2500 http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm is just verbal instructions no pictures! I tend to find that with pictures it is much easier for me to understand and doing a fuel filter change on 2000 and up DODGE RAM 2500 looks pretty easy to do. I just want to know because I am thinking of maybe buying this truck http://www.canadatrader.com/result/d...px?ID=19796547. If some has step by step guide with pictures I sure like to see it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
05-05-2006, 06:17 AM
#2
Registered User
Fuel Filter
Originally Posted by ricky789
How do you change a Fuel filter on a 1998 DODGE RAM 2500,it would be nice if someone had pictures on how to do it. I found a step by step guide with pictures at this website http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm, but the procedure on how to do it on the 1998 to 1999 DODGE RAM 2500 http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/fil...uel_filter.htm is just verbal instructions no pictures! I tend to find that with pictures it is much easier for me to understand and doing a fuel filter change on 2000 and up DODGE RAM 2500 looks pretty easy to do. I just want to know because I am thinking of maybe buying this truck http://www.canadatrader.com/result/d...px?ID=19796547. If some has step by step guide with pictures I sure like to see it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
It is Just the opposite from the 2001 you have posted ,,, The top does not come off on a 98.5, Is this a 24 valve or a 12 valve? 98.5 24 Valve the Bottom of the canister comes off, Not the top,,First drain the fuel from the filter housing by the drain on the side of the canister...Then I believe it is a 14 or 15 mm nut on top of the canister you undo ,The nut Stays there and there is a stud inside the canister Just drop the canister and pull out the filter replace the "o" rings (come with filter) replace filter, reverse procedure. Dont have any photo's BUT It's easy Just do it..
05-05-2006, 06:23 AM
#3
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As you have noted the 99 and older truck have a different style of filter. On the 2000 and newer trucks all that is required is a 1/2" drive, a 1 foot extension (makes it really easy), and a 1 1/8 inch socket. Put it on the center of the lid and its lefty loosey, righty tighty. Unscrew the lid and the filter comes out with the lid. (helps to drain the canister first). Then simply remove the old filter, wipe out the canister with a CLEAN rag if there is any gunk, snap a new filter onto the lid and replace the O-ring seal on the lid that came with the new filter. Be sure and lube the O-ring like you would the gasket on an oil filter. Some guys use oil, some guys use some diesel fuel. I personnaly use diesel fuel to lube the O-ring. Screw the lid/filter back into the canister and snug it down, be sure not to over-tighten.
Now here is the tricky part, getting the engine to run again. Hop in the truck and *bump* the starter (engage the starter for less than a half second). What this does is trick the ECM into thinking there was a failed attempt to start the engine. The ECM will then engage the lift pump for 25 seconds and refill the filter canister with fuel. I bump the starter 3 times before I attempt to start the truck. Mine will usually start and run just fine and then stutter for a few seconds while the remaining air trapped in the fuel system is purged out through the injector lines. Once it starts and runs like normal you are done. Usually takes me no more than 20 minutes to do.
Here are some pictures to help.
Here you can see the filter lid. Your truck may have a square hole in the center of the lid that will fit a socket wrench. DO NOT use the square hole to loosen or tighten the filter lid. You can damage the lid very easily and it was that reason Dodge changed the design to a round center hole like mine.
Here is a picture of the canister out of the truck. I had taken it out when I changed my lift pump. I labeled all of the major componets.
Here is another shot of the canister showing the basic flow of the fuel.
Here is a shot of the inside of the canister. That gunk at the bottom is what you want to wipe out of it with a CLEAN rag. In case you don't know WIF stands for Water in Fuel.
And lastly, this is why you want to change filters on a regular basis. The dirty filter you see has 10K miles on it, which is the interval that I change mine out.
Hope this helps you.
Now here is the tricky part, getting the engine to run again. Hop in the truck and *bump* the starter (engage the starter for less than a half second). What this does is trick the ECM into thinking there was a failed attempt to start the engine. The ECM will then engage the lift pump for 25 seconds and refill the filter canister with fuel. I bump the starter 3 times before I attempt to start the truck. Mine will usually start and run just fine and then stutter for a few seconds while the remaining air trapped in the fuel system is purged out through the injector lines. Once it starts and runs like normal you are done. Usually takes me no more than 20 minutes to do.
Here are some pictures to help.
Here you can see the filter lid. Your truck may have a square hole in the center of the lid that will fit a socket wrench. DO NOT use the square hole to loosen or tighten the filter lid. You can damage the lid very easily and it was that reason Dodge changed the design to a round center hole like mine.
Here is a picture of the canister out of the truck. I had taken it out when I changed my lift pump. I labeled all of the major componets.
Here is another shot of the canister showing the basic flow of the fuel.
Here is a shot of the inside of the canister. That gunk at the bottom is what you want to wipe out of it with a CLEAN rag. In case you don't know WIF stands for Water in Fuel.
And lastly, this is why you want to change filters on a regular basis. The dirty filter you see has 10K miles on it, which is the interval that I change mine out.
Hope this helps you.
05-05-2006, 07:02 AM
#4
Registered User
Any Photos of 98.5
Originally Posted by jrs_dodge_diesel
As you have noted the 99 and older truck have a different style of filter. On the 2000 and newer trucks all that is required is a 1/2" drive, a 1 foot extension (makes it really easy), and a 1 1/8 inch socket. Put it on the center of the lid and its lefty loosey, righty tighty. Unscrew the lid and the filter comes out with the lid. (helps to drain the canister first). Then simply remove the old filter, wipe out the canister with a CLEAN rag if there is any gunk, snap a new filter onto the lid and replace the O-ring seal on the lid that came with the new filter. Be sure and lube the O-ring like you would the gasket on an oil filter. Some guys use oil, some guys use some diesel fuel. I personnaly use diesel fuel to lube the O-ring. Screw the lid/filter back into the canister and snug it down, be sure not to over-tighten.
Now here is the tricky part, getting the engine to run again. Hop in the truck and *bump* the starter (engage the starter for less than a half second). What this does is trick the ECM into thinking there was a failed attempt to start the engine. The ECM will then engage the lift pump for 25 seconds and refill the filter canister with fuel. I bump the starter 3 times before I attempt to start the truck. Mine will usually start and run just fine and then stutter for a few seconds while the remaining air trapped in the fuel system is purged out through the injector lines. Once it starts and runs like normal you are done. Usually takes me no more than 20 minutes to do.
Here are some pictures to help.
Here you can see the filter lid. Your truck may have a square hole in the center of the lid that will fit a socket wrench. DO NOT use the square hole to loosen or tighten the filter lid. You can damage the lid very easily and it was that reason Dodge changed the design to a round center hole like mine.
Here is a picture of the canister out of the truck. I had taken it out when I changed my lift pump. I labeled all of the major componets.
Here is another shot of the canister showing the basic flow of the fuel.
Here is a shot of the inside of the canister. That gunk at the bottom is what you want to wipe out of it with a CLEAN rag. In case you don't know WIF stands for Water in Fuel.
And lastly, this is why you want to change filters on a regular basis. The dirty filter you see has 10K miles on it, which is the interval that I change mine out.
Hope this helps you.
Now here is the tricky part, getting the engine to run again. Hop in the truck and *bump* the starter (engage the starter for less than a half second). What this does is trick the ECM into thinking there was a failed attempt to start the engine. The ECM will then engage the lift pump for 25 seconds and refill the filter canister with fuel. I bump the starter 3 times before I attempt to start the truck. Mine will usually start and run just fine and then stutter for a few seconds while the remaining air trapped in the fuel system is purged out through the injector lines. Once it starts and runs like normal you are done. Usually takes me no more than 20 minutes to do.
Here are some pictures to help.
Here you can see the filter lid. Your truck may have a square hole in the center of the lid that will fit a socket wrench. DO NOT use the square hole to loosen or tighten the filter lid. You can damage the lid very easily and it was that reason Dodge changed the design to a round center hole like mine.
Here is a picture of the canister out of the truck. I had taken it out when I changed my lift pump. I labeled all of the major componets.
Here is another shot of the canister showing the basic flow of the fuel.
Here is a shot of the inside of the canister. That gunk at the bottom is what you want to wipe out of it with a CLEAN rag. In case you don't know WIF stands for Water in Fuel.
And lastly, this is why you want to change filters on a regular basis. The dirty filter you see has 10K miles on it, which is the interval that I change mine out.
Hope this helps you.
jrs_dodge_diesel Do you have any photos of the 1998.5 fuel filter? That is what I believe he is looking for. If not ,, I will take some when I get home from work, And post later.
05-05-2006, 10:12 AM
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If you have the 1998.5 like I do, its pretty simple. I changed mine out last night. The biggest problem is bleeding the system. I didn't take any pictures, but basically you turn the yellow swtich to open it up and drain, disconnect the sensor, loosen the top middle nut (its a 9/16 socket), twist the canister and it should come off. The new filter should come with all new O-rings, so replace those lubricating them with diesel and put it back together. Once together, you might need to bleed the system before the truck will start. To try it out, prime the truck by crank the truck and stop right away. The fuel pump should be on for about 25 seconds. Try starting the truck once you hear the pump stop. If the truck does not start, you need to bleed the system. I'm going to go out and take some pictures. I will post those in a bit. Hope this helps to get you started though.
** I added two pictures to my gallery, and I apologize for not being able to do more. I do not have my digital camera and had to use my husbands. The banjo bolt that you need to loosen to bleed the system did not come out at all. That would be your low pressure bleed. I had to do the banjo bolt and loosen 3 injectors to finally get all the air out of the system. Hope this helps. The pictures are in my gallery.
** I added two pictures to my gallery, and I apologize for not being able to do more. I do not have my digital camera and had to use my husbands. The banjo bolt that you need to loosen to bleed the system did not come out at all. That would be your low pressure bleed. I had to do the banjo bolt and loosen 3 injectors to finally get all the air out of the system. Hope this helps. The pictures are in my gallery.
Last edited by dodgechick98; 05-05-2006 at 10:55 AM. Reason: Adding Pictures
05-05-2006, 02:20 PM
#6
Registered User
Filter
Originally Posted by dodgechick98
If you have the 1998.5 like I do, its pretty simple. I changed mine out last night. The biggest problem is bleeding the system. I didn't take any pictures, but basically you turn the yellow swtich to open it up and drain, disconnect the sensor, loosen the top middle nut (its a 9/16 socket), twist the canister and it should come off. The new filter should come with all new O-rings, so replace those lubricating them with diesel and put it back together. Once together, you might need to bleed the system before the truck will start. To try it out, prime the truck by crank the truck and stop right away. The fuel pump should be on for about 25 seconds. Try starting the truck once you hear the pump stop. If the truck does not start, you need to bleed the system. I'm going to go out and take some pictures. I will post those in a bit. Hope this helps to get you started though.
** I added two pictures to my gallery, and I apologize for not being able to do more. I do not have my digital camera and had to use my husbands. The banjo bolt that you need to loosen to bleed the system did not come out at all. That would be your low pressure bleed. I had to do the banjo bolt and loosen 3 injectors to finally get all the air out of the system. Hope this helps. The pictures are in my gallery.
** I added two pictures to my gallery, and I apologize for not being able to do more. I do not have my digital camera and had to use my husbands. The banjo bolt that you need to loosen to bleed the system did not come out at all. That would be your low pressure bleed. I had to do the banjo bolt and loosen 3 injectors to finally get all the air out of the system. Hope this helps. The pictures are in my gallery.
05-05-2006, 07:43 PM
#7
Administrator
Originally Posted by Truckman
After I put the filter in the canister I Fill The canister with clean Diesel Fuel to eliminate any Bleeding of the system,OR you can pull one of the plugs out of the top of the housing and fill with fuel there. Makes it much easier (I think).
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05-07-2006, 06:08 AM
#8
Registered User
Yes it does
Originally Posted by jrs_dodge_diesel
Why not just bump the starter? That works on all 24V trucks.
To Each his or her own,, I used to do it that way Bump It a few times, But have had the truck start and run rough for a few seconds after that(5 Cylinders or so) I feel that ALL the fuel I can send to the VP, Keeps it and Me and My wallet HAPPY.. LOL.
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