mr_diy

I have a 96' 12v 3500. I have been reading about common problems/suggested maintenance and beginning upgrades but I don't know what I have.

I have the 12v 5.9, auto transmission and a 241 tcase. Is this motor the KDP problem one? What should I get for the tranny to hold up (valve body kit or what?)

what do you guys suggest for getting her "reliable" and then "strong"... thanks a lot. I am becoming addicted already
MOTOR

TRUCK

dieseldan07

nice truck. yes it does have the kdp that needs fixed. tst sells a repair kit for it. you need gauges and a tq so the tranny doesn't blow. others will chime in on that. if you dont mind me askin, what did you pay for it? that thing looks clean.

lifer

Problems to fix before they start on your truck are...
#1 KDP, then some other less serious ones are ,install oversize starter contacts in the starter solenoid, Replace the fuel lines from and to the tank to the engine and install a new fuel gage sending unit at the same time. Install a steel industries front steering box output shaft support . Install a new overflow valve on the injection pump. If you keep the stock hp then I would say have your trans line pressure increased and change fluid every 20k, if you increase the hp then I would put in a valve body and a new tc from goerend brothers or one of the other proven trans builders before you do any hp upgrades. If you wait till after upgrades then figure on a upgraded rebuilt trans. complete. Then the hp upgrades are almost endless. If you state your milage and type of use you will give your truck it would help us give you more direction on hp upgrades. If you keep stock hp you don't need egt or boost gages but if you want more hp then put in the gages before upgraded hp. If you do nothing else performance wise at least install the 3k gsk. It will make the truck much more drivable than it is now. It will not give more hp but will make it so you can use what you already have to its full extent.
Nice clean truck by the way. If you take care of it it will last you many years at a fraction of what a new truck would be. Also much cheaper to repair than almost any other diesel truck ever made including the newer cummins trucks. You made an exellent choice even if you had to pay top money for it.

mr_diy

wow, that was a lot of info, thanks. do you mind if I pm you as I figure this stuff out?

It has 84k miles on it and will tow about 7,000lbs. of rock crawling buggy and trailer combined. I paid $11,500 for it.

I want to make the tranny as strong as I need with firmer shifts and I'd like a lot more bottom end b/c the truck is doggish off the line to me. I want to do all the "standard" HP upgrades but not get into compromising reliability.

more mpg would be nice but I don't expect to ever see 20mpg out of a 4wd 3500. getting 16.5mpg now

so which companies should I get stuff from? Who should I avoid? I want quality parts but I don't wanna pay top dollar for a sticker.

lifer

you are welcome to PM me any time you like. I go out of town for work so there are times that I don't get on the web for a while so if I don't get back to you right away just be patient . You should be able to get 275hp and increase your milage by a 1-2mpg at the same time. If you look at the mods I have in my sig. you will be in the 275hp range and have good milage. The up side is it does not cost much to get there . The down side is that you will have more money in the trans than the engine to hold that hp + torque. With these mods you will not believe it is the same truck, it will be like night and day. I have done more to my truck now but have not updated my sig. I am pushing 350-375hp but my milage droped to about what I got when the truck was totaly stock. A good place to get parts from is Piers Diesel research. You will get them about as resonable as they get from them. Also you can get some things like the starter contacts on ebay cheap or go to www.fostertruck.com Stay away from Banks stuff. Not that it is bad , it is just way over priced for what you get.

lifer

For $11,500 I would say you did good for a low milage clean truck.

roughstock

at some point, you will probably have problems with the head light switch, and fuel gauge sending unit.
I agree with lifer, espically the starter contacts, 85k isn't much, but for the $30 in parts, it is easy preventative maintenance. That cost me about $250, because it fired a bunch of stuff when the starter malfunctioned.

You might want to upgrade the headlights: Relay kit and or better bulbs, Try Flosser bulbs 9104.

Most 12 valvers will develop an oil leak from the vacuum pump, Cummins has a seal kit for $10, its easy to do, just takes time.

NICE RIDE. I'd like to find one like that with a 5 speed, my 2wd is not good in snow.
Hope this helps

deereguy07

Nice truck man! I looks cleaner then the one I jus bought and I thought it was clean. If you want to upgrade the trans you may look at a valve body from Dunrite. I used to run one in my 96. Extrmely pleased with it. Would buy another one tomorow if I still had the auto. Very good customer service. Another good name in trans parts is goerend. I've never run any of there products but have heard nothin but good from people who do run them. There are several things you can do for free to upgrade power. I have done about all of the free stuff to mine. You can tell a big differance jus by doin all them before you start buyin things. Get you a good set of gauges boost pyro and may want to think bout a trans temp with an auto. Good Luck once again. Sharp truck man.

mr_diy

thanks guys, I wrote down most of what you said and will do some research on the companies but am leaning towards pier diesel b/c I've been told about them 3 times already.

what are the free things to get more power without compromising reliability?... thanks

thewished

First thing for free, get under your dash and check your throttle cable, mine and a few others have been over 2" loose, meaning you barely have any throttle. I used zip ties for a temporary but some used a wire clamp from home depot and it looks better but either way that might help you a lot. Another thing is get rid of that stock airbox, you will get better off the line and overall power especially with towing. There are a few options, cheap would be the BHAF (big honking air filter) just search this and there will be lots, I personally went with a professional look and grade product called an Icebox intake. Just what ever fits your wallet and needs. Valve body and torque converter would be a good thing before you toast your tranny like me and have to replace every single part in it... Then you can start messing with gauges and fuel but the throttle cable and air filter would be my first step.

Have fun with it!!

Jered (same truck as me but mines 95 (smaller pump, inj, dv's) and white) Looks real nice!!!

Also, I would do a fuel filter and oil change just to be sure... cheap insurance and headache preventer

mr_diy

thanks man... I'll do it asap

90dodge

Thats a sharp lookin rig you got there, and for a good deal. First off I would do the KDP. I just bought a 98 12v 5spd 4x4 with a cracked timing case! Dealer didnt even know it was until I drove. Got the truck for $9800 out the door, with a check for the parts to fix it. witch if any body is interested is about $500 in parts from cummins. So do the KDP first.
Dose any one have a extra timing case?

Bob.

Thewished, I use to live in Bend. It has really grown in the last 6 years!

mr_diy

thanks you sir, it's on the top of the list

CEBU97

DIY...that is very nice lookin Dually!

And........Thank YOU sir for asking the right questions!

I just bought my 96 3500 12v (118k miles) Dually last Monday and sounds like you got alot of answers I needed too.

I've seen some talk about a 'Hub Conversion'.....not sure yet what that is about but that might be good one to find more about.

Also will the Scanguage II work on the 96? I have one and so far looks like
it might? Gauges are critical to me.......if you don't know whats goin on your
always in trouble..

****........My girl just called and says she broke her leg.......
....doin Roller Derby!!...I'm out.

mr_diy

thanks cebu97.... I might be spewing mis-information but from what I have read the hub conversion lets your hubs free spin unless locked in so there is less rolling resistance which yields better mpg and longer life for the internals.

someone please correct me if I'm wrong (probably).
I don't know what scanguage II is? I don't understand 1/2 of the diesel language.

OH YEAH! WHAT TRANSMISSION DO I HAVE? I AM LOOKING AT TC'S AND CAN'T SEE ANY LABELS ON THE RIG? THANKS