MARF75

I want to eliminate the valve in the rear framerail.

If I do:

1 Do I have to do something with the electrical plug in the harness,at the valve?

2 Can the aluminum dist. block under the master cylinder be removed also or is that something totally different?

TIA

MARF75

no input??

maxwellp

Cover it up. You will have to unplug the RWAL computer. The Anti lock light will come on when you take out the valve. The block under the mater cylinder is the proportioning valve, that would need to stay.

MARF75

OK. thanks bunches

1STGENFARMBOY

Do away with the valve on the inside of the frame rail behind the rearend on the driver side, conect the brake lines back together with fittings, un plug it and also the black box behind the glovebox, that will kill all the lights.

bleed brakes and keep your rear shoes adjusted and your breakes will be better than they ever have been.

Dar

NJTman

My truck came to me with the valve disconnected, yet still in place.... I guess so that it could be put back together relatively easily. They just bypassed the valve, and disconnected the module in the cab.

Brakes work perfectly fine, if you ask me......although I'm not practicing my panic stops anytime soon.


T.

1STGENFARMBOY

Yeh i don't guess there's any reason to remove it off the frame, but i dought it will ever work again.

i guess you can rebuild them but i never will put it back in line.

Dar

tyssniffen

ok, I AM going to bypass the whole dump valve assembly thing - but check this idiot move out and tell me if I have more trouble:

I was under there reworking the spare tire holder and thought - hey, what if I just plug this ABS electrical thing back in after unplugging it a year ago? Then did a short trip, and after about a mile, I started hearing squeaks, and I think the brakes are engaged, without my foot on the pedal.!? like, the thing worked for a minute, engaged the brakes, and now won't UN-engage them. Could that be a thing? I quickly unplugged it again, but it still seems like the brakes are on - like I have the Ebrake engaged (which I don't) or is this some crazy coincidence, and it's something else? can't be, right?

Besides bypassing the thing, what can I do *right now* to get my brakes to *not* work so much?

u2slow

I dont know all its failure 'styles', but it doesnt take long to cut the supply line to the valve, re-flare it with a fresh nut, and marry it right up to the soft line going to the axle.

BearKiller

If you don't have the flaring kit, adapter fittings are easily available to bypass the valve line-to-line; the two lines/fittings are two different diameters and require the adapter to mate back up.

On one truck, I gutted the valve; the brake lines and fluid still go through the valve housing, but there is nothing in there to do anything.