NICE_N_EEEZ

Hello guys/gals/mechanics,

I'm new to the site.
Been searching on this site forever for an answer to my trucks little problem,....but I did not succeed to find one,...or maybe I was searching under the wrong keyword, I dunno?!?!?
Sooo i signed up,...and here is my question.

Let me introduce my truck first,...so that you all know a bit more then just the bare basic: it being a diesel.

My truck is a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 quad cab SLT 2x4 Laramie '94 to '01 model with 115K on it.
With a Cummins 5.9L 24Valve 6 cylinder Diesel Engine and automatic transmission.

Replaced/serviced parts:
-Airconditioning freon powerups every year.
-Calipers, rotors and brake-pads replaced all around at 100K.
-Oil changes: every 5K with LUCAS oil additives all around.
-LUCAS additive oils in : Engine, Transmission, Transfer case, Fuel tank, and all Grease fittings
-Batteries: two Optima red tops since 2008
-Fueling up eveytime there is only a quart tank left,...I NEVER let the fuel gauge get too or near the RED line!
-K&N lifetime airfilter added at 108K part#33-2056
-Ranch Hand Legend series full bumper replacements front and rear
-6X Hella Rallye 4000 Metal series*
*2XPensil Beam ligths, (on front bumper)
*2XCornering Beam lights, (on front bumper)
*2XFog Lights,(on front bumper)
-2X Hella Micro FF Fog Lights (as additional backup lights on rear bumper),
-4X 20" Rockstar rims,
-4X Toyo 33x12.50R20 LT Open Country tires,
-Leveling kit,
-Vally fifth wheel


Engine start: no problem
Engine idle: no problem
Engine idle with A/C on full or not: no problem

Driving: Cold, throttle is NOT responding for the first 5 minutes, then all of sudden it's OK,....that's soo strange that?!?!?
Then no matter what speed I'm driving the throttle is all of a sudden not responding any more.
It feels like my throttle is freezing up,....NOT litterally ofcourse,.....the foot-pedal pumping action works throughout this "freeze-up" session.
Then it takes about 30 seconds to a minute too respond (while slowing you down 10-20miles per hour) and then finally out of nowhere speedup again.

What does that throttle behavior mean?
-Fuel filter needs replacing?
-Bad fuel pump?
-Bad liftpump?
-Injectors gone bad?
-Injector pump gone bad / or it's timing?

I have NO IDEA what this strange behavior could be,...I NEVER had ANY problems with my Rig!
I hope I do not have to replace my whole fuel system though $$$$$ OUCH! I'm worried now!
Please HELP!

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ

doorguy

search under TPS or click the link below to one post see if that sounds like your problem.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...&highlight=tps

Totallyrad

I'm with doorguy, sounds like the TPS.

NICE_N_EEEZ

Thanks guys!


Maybe I should make a separate post asking forum-members and TIMBO APPS users what their findings are.

I mean,...the TIMBO APPS sensor $160.00 deal looks almost too good to be true, especially after I called my local dealer today which quoted $750.00 (tax included) for the sensor ONLY,.....WITH installation the dealer quoted me today $1250.00!!! HOLY CRAP!

My original OEM APPS lasted 115K,....the high milage says alot about the OEM sensor quality, will these Timbo sensors last just as long?

Regards NICE_N_EEEZ

nickg

Timbos will last longer, but unless you pull codes you could be replacing parts for nothing!
Dead pedal only when cold sounds like a VP
pull codes (apps if faulty 99.99% shows up as a code)

read thru this

http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html

dkenny

did it miss it? what's your fuel pressure? do you have gauges?

-dkenny

clops79

sounds like vp going bad, mine does the same thing and apps is good just waiting for vp to die

BigIron70

Any codes such as a P0216-FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING FAILURE? Sounds like VP going out.

NICE_N_EEEZ

Hello guys,

First of all thankyou all for all your valuable replies.

Unfortunately I do not have a "scan-tool" of my own, so I applied the "BLUE CHIP DIESEL PERFORMANCE SPECIALISTS" method to get "some" codes.
The BLUE CHIP METHOD is here>>>http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html

Procedure: turn ON the ignition switch three times in 5 seconds and leave it in the "ON" position (without starting the engine)
Then you can read the codes in the odometer.

The following codes came up in this exact order;
1 - P PCU
2 - P0500
3 - P1693
4 - DONE
5 - DONE
6 - P ECU
7 - P 1693
8 - P 216
9 - DONE
10 - ODOMETER CAME BACK ON.

I guess that my VP44 is indeed going out,...but what do all the other codes mean?

Just to be on the safe side,...I just made an appointment with my local dealer for a computer diagnosis on 8-18-10.

Once again thanks in advance guys/gals/mechanics
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ

Junk Man

Cancel the dealer appointment. You won't even get kissed. Find a decent indy mechanic if you can't do your own wrenching.

Deal with the 0500 speed sensor 1st. It is located in the rear pumpkin on my 00 but confirm for your 02. Next, clear codes & see if the 216 comes back. You won't like what that one is. Much reading on both codes.

Get gauges and a fuel system.

ldornak

The 1693 code is a companion code that tells you there's a code in the PCU / ECU. Don't worry about it. I wouldn't worry about the 0500 code (speed sensor). You can throw that code just by barly spinning the rear tires. You do need to pay attention to the 0216 code. Usually means VP44.

nickg

agreed with above...clear codes first THEN monitor to see if they return. a 0216 can be caused by poor fuel supply or air in the system
always clear codes then recheck to see if they return

opps just re-read your orginal post...a 0216 along with drivability issues (no throttle response when cold) will definitately confirm the 0216 and VP is not achieving desired timming, shop around for a new VP and do a search on U-tube as there is a video on how to replace the pump (should take you 2-4hrs, depending on your handiness with tools)
that said many have reported driving for a long time on a failing VP.

if you have not upgraded the fuel system or added a gauge, you will need to just to keep from ruining a new VP

Junk Man

I've been doing some digging and believe: 0216 is mechanical (not electric) failure of the VP. My new VP threw a 216 & scared the crap out of me because I had just installed or perhaps killed a new VP with bad fuel and this VP was installed as a warranty replacement. I drained the tank, cleared the codes and loaded the new fuel with Stanadyne Lubricity. Stanadyne was recommended by the guy I bought the pump from. 300 miles & no codes. I'm thinking the lube helped my new VP & may help some that are having 0216 problems but haven't replaced the VP yet.

I was going to use 2-stroke oil but the guy that sole me the VP said that Stanadyne makes the lube and injectors. He also said he sees a lot of screwed up injectors where people have run various things. Rather than argue about what might work or not, he gave me a bottle & said to run it. Normal cost is $20 for a 1/2 gallon which treats 500 gal of fuel ~ $.04/gallon treated.

So: my initial pump could have been killed by bad fuel. My 1st replacement was perhaps killed by bad fuel. Both of which are essentially a lubricity problem.

I've read where diesel from the plant is SUPPOSED to have additives including lubricity enhancers put in before it is put into the tank at the gas station. Studies I've read show that the fuel is still too dry. My conclusion is to run the Stanadyne in an attempt to keep this pump. (I'm getting really good at taking the hard lines off.)

Speaking of hard lines, mine were leaking where they screw into the head. Tightening didn't help. Cummins wants ~ $25 for new injection tubes (each). I bought new O-rings at $1.75 each & don't have a leak. I also cleaned both ends of the tubes with 1000 grit sand paper which may or may not have helped. Don't go crazy sanding or I expect you'll be springing for new tubes. I intend to match the o-rings at the parts store & will buy generic o-rings if I need to do this again.

Clunk

Hey Junkman, glad you got your leak fixed.
Where are you getting Stanadyne for $20/half gallon?

NICE_N_EEEZ

Hey guys/gals/mechanics,

First my apollogies for my late reply,....work and a bad internet connection delayed it.

Did a Reset on the codes (took the battery leads off for about 4 hours)
Reconnected them,...and these codes came up before starting:
1st test:
P - PCU
P - doNe
P - ECU
P - 0216
P - doNe

2nd test:
A system/gauges check (hold down trip reset button while turning ON your ignition and OFF 3 times within 5seconds,...without starting,....then let go of both and read the following)
20MPH - 1000 RPM
55MPH - 2000 RPM
120MPH - 4000 RPM
All gauges working properly/all systems are a GO.

3rd test: (before starting 3 times ignition ON and OFF)
p - PCU
P - 1693
P - doNe
P - ECU
P - 0216
P - doNe

Everytime I turn ON my ignition I can hear the "liftpump" go ON only for about 2 seconds!
Is that "good" or a very "bad" sign?

Idle 850 RPM
Peddle floored (with a warm/hot engine) in Neutral 4000 RPM
Peddle floored in Drive (my truck is an automatic) for the first 5 minutes my truck will NOT go over 1000 RPM!
Drove/Idled for about 2 miles before pulling back in my driveway.

Hope this helps PIN-POINTING my problem, before I waste any hard earned money.

Thanks in advance again.
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ