Devin_01

Just wondering if anyone has done a rebuild on a Dana 80. Is there any thing hard about it or is it straight forward. Also is there any tips or tricks for rebuilding this? Anyways yesterday i was out driving around and i noticed a humming noise coming from the rear diff only on deceleration. I got out and crawled underneath and there was play side to side in the pinion bearings. So that is what im up against changing them out. Also were is a good place to get a bearing kit for the differental?

Any tips or hits would be great.

Thanks

Common

Sounds like you just need the pinion bearing...

I had a professional do mine...

SilverRam3500

I'm doing mine tonight as we speak.
I'm doing all bearing and seals while I'm in there??!!!??

Good luck with yours!

Tocapet

If the pinion bearing is worn, then the carrier bearings should be looked at as well. There are some special tools involved in rebuilding a diff. I just had my Dana 70 bearings done by a transmission shop here in Ft Worth and the cost was just under $1200. They replaced all the bearings. They want to see it after 500 miles to be sure the setup is gonna be OK.

Devin_01

What special tools are there?? The only one that i know of is the case spreader which i dont need. If there are any other ones could someone let me know what they are.

Thanks Devin

Devin_01

Im pulling it apart today. I will let you guys know who it goes.

Tocapet

The press for the pinion bearing and the puller for the race in the housing. The BIG torque wrench for that pinion nut
Setting up the ring & pinion, the orange paint they use for that. Maybe you don't need the spreader, but never know.

Fullsizeyota

does your butt hurt after that one?? 1200!?!?!? your nuts

Tocapet

Removal
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Position a suitable lifting device under the axle.
3. Secure axle to device.
4. Remove the wheels and tires.
5. Secure brake drums to the axle shaft.
6. Remove the RWAL. sensor from the differential housing, if necessary. Refer to Brakes and Traction Control for proper procedures.
7. Disconnect the brake hose at the axle junction block. Do not disconnect the brake hydraulic lines at the wheel cylinders.
8. Disconnect the parking brake cables and cable brackets.
9. Disconnect the vent hose from the axle shaft tube.
10. Mark the propeller shaft and yoke for installation alignment reference.
11. Remove propeller shaft.
12. Disconnect shock absorbers from axle.
13. Remove the spring clamps and spring brackets. Refer to Steering and Suspension, for proper procedures.
14. Separate the axle from the vehicle.
Installation
1. Raise the axle with lifting device and align to the leaf spring centering bolts.
2. Install the spring clamps and spring brackets.
3. Install shock absorbers and tighten nuts to 82 Nm (60 ft. lbs.) torque.
4. Install the RWAL sensor to the differential housing, if necessary.
5. Connect the parking brake cables and cable brackets.
6. Install the brake drums.
7. Connect the brake hose to the axle junction block.
8. Install axle vent hose.
9. Align propeller shaft and pinion yoke reference marks. Install universal joint straps and bolts. Tighten to 19 Nm (14 ft. lbs.) torque.
10. Install the wheels and tires.
11. Add gear lubricant, if necessary.
12. Remove lifting device from axle and lower the vehicle.
Pinion Nut 215 - 330 ft.lb
Pinion Bearing Preload Original Bearing 10 - 20 in.lb
New Bearing 15 - 35 in.lb

NOTE: The ring and pinion gears are service in a matched set. Do not replace the pinion gear without replacing the ring gear.

Removal
1. Remove differential assembly from axle housing.
2. Mark pinion yoke and propeller shaft for installation alignment.
3. Disconnect propeller shaft from pinion yoke. Using suitable wire, tie propeller shaft to underbody.
4. Using Yoke Holder 6719 to hold yoke, remove the pinion yoke nut and washer.
Using Remover C-452 and Wrench C-3281, remove the pinion yoke from pinion shaft.

6. Remove the pinion gear from housing. Catch the pinion with your hand to prevent it from falling and being damaged.
7. Remove the pinion seal with a slide hammer or suitable pry bar.
8. Remove oil slinger, if equipped, and the front pinion bearing.
9. Remove the front pinion bearing cup with Remover D-158 and Handle C-4171.
10. Remove the rear bearing cup from housing. Use Remover D-162 and Handle C-4171.
11. Remove the collapsible preload spacer from 248 RBI pinion gears.
12. Remove the solid shims from 267 RBI pinion gears.
13. Remove the rear bearing from the pinion with Puller/Press C-293-PA and Adapters C-293-37. Place 4 adapter blocks so they do not damage the bearing cage.
14. Remove the pinion depth shims from the pinion gear shaft. Record the total thickness of the depth shims.
Installation

1. Apply Mopar (R) Door Ease stick lubricant to outside surface of bearing cup. Install the pinion rear bearing cup with Installer D-111 and Handle C-4171. Ensure cup is correctly seated.
2. Apply Mopar (R) Door Ease stick lubricant to outside surface of bearing cup. Install the pinion front bearing cup with Installer D-146 and Handle C-4171.
3. Install pinion front bearing and oil slinger, if equipped. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.
4. Install seal with Installer 8108 and Handle C-4171. NOTE: Pinion depth shims are placed between the rear pinion bearing cone and pinion gear to achieve proper ring and pinion gear mesh. If the factory installed ring and pinion gears are reused, the pinion depth shim should not require replacement or adjustment. Refer to Pinion Gear Depth to select the proper thickness shim before installing rear pinion bearing cone.
5. Place the proper thickness pinion depth shim on the pinion gear.
6. Install the rear bearing and oil slinger, if equipped, on the pinion gear with Installer C-3095-A.
7. Install a new collapsible preload spacer on pinion shaft on 248 RBI pinion gears.
8. Install original solid shims on 267 RBI pinion gears.
9. Install pinion rear in housing.
10. Install yoke with Installer C-3718 and Yoke Holder 6719.
11. Install the yoke washer and a new nut on the pinion gear. Tighten the nut to 292 Nm (215 ft. lbs.) minimum. Do not over-tighten. Maximum torque is447 Nm (330 ft. lbs.) . CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease pinion gear bearing preload torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque is exceeded a new pinion nut and collapsible spacer, if equipped, must be installed. The torque sequence will have to be repeated.
12. Tighten pinion nut as follows for 248 RBI axles:
a. Using Yoke Holder 6719, and a torque wrench set at 447 Nm (330 ft. lbs.) , crush collapsible spacer until bearing end play is taken up.
b. Slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 Nm (5 ft. lbs.) increments until the rotating torque is achieved. Measure the rotating torque frequently to avoid over crushing the collapsible spacer.
13. Tighten pinion nut as follows for 267 RBI axles:
a. If the rotating torque is greater than the desired rotating torque, remove the pinion yoke and decrease the thickness of the solid shim pack. Decreasing the shim pack thickness by 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) will increase the rotating torque approximately 0.9 Nm (8 inch lbs.) .
b. Slowly tighten the nut in 6.8 Nm (5 ft. lbs.) increments until the rotating torque or tightening torque of 447 Nm (330 ft. lbs.) is achieved. Measure the rotating torque frequently to avoid excessively preloading the pinion bearings.
c. If the maximum tightening torque is reached prior to achieving the desired rotating torque, remove the pinion yoke and increase the thickness of the solid shim pack. Increasing the shim pack thickness by 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) will decrease the rotating torque approximately 0.9 Nm (8 inch lbs.) .
14. Check bearing rotating torque with an inch pound torque wrench. The torque necessary to rotate the pinion gear should be:
• Original Bearings- 1 to 3 Nm (10 to 20 inch lbs.) .
• New Bearings-2 to 5 Nm (15 to 35 inch lbs.) .
15. Align previously made marks on yoke and propeller shaft and install propeller shaft.
16. Install differential housing into the axle housing.

The ring and pinion gears are service in a matched set. Do not replace the ring gear without replacing the pinion gear.

Removal
1. Remove differential from axle housing.

2. Place differential case in a suitable vise with soft metal jaw protectors.
3. Remove bolts holding ring gear to differential case.
4. Using a soft hammer, drive ring gear from differential case.
5. Use a brass drift and slowly tap the exciter ring from the differential case.
Installation

CAUTION: Do not reuse the bolts that held the ring gear to the differential case. The bolts can fracture causing extensive damage.
1. Invert the differential case.
2. Position exciter ring on differential case.
3. Using a brass drift, slowly and evenly tap the exciter ring into position.
4. Invert the differential case and start two ring gear bolts. This will provide case-to-ring gear bolt hole alignment.
5. Invert the differential case in the vise.
6. Install new ring gear bolts and alternately tighten to 163 - 190 Nm (120 - 140 ft. lbs.) torque.
7. Install differential in axle housing and verify gear mesh and contact pattern.
Removal
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Scribe a mark on the universal joint, pinion yoke, and pinion shaft for reference.
3. Disconnect the propeller shaft from the pinion yoke. Secure the propeller shaft in an upright position to prevent damage to the rear universal joint.
4. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
5. Remove the brake drums to prevent any drag. The drag may cause a false bearing preload torque measurement.
6. Rotate the pinion yoke three or four times.
7. Measure the amount of torque necessary to rotate the pinion gear with a (inch lbs.) dial-type torque wrench. Record the torque reading for installation reference.
8. Hold the yoke with Wrench 6719. Remove the pinion shaft nut and washer.
9. Remove the yoke with Remover C-452.
10. Remove the pinion shaft seal with suitable pry tool or slide-hammer mounted screw.
Installation
1. Clean the seal contact surface in the housing bore.
2. Examine the splines on the pinion shaft for burrs or wear. Remove any burrs and clean the shaft.
3. Inspect pinion yoke for cracks, worn splines and worn seal contact surface. Replace yoke if necessary. NOTE: The outer perimeter of the seal is pre-coated with a special sealant. An additional application of sealant is not required.
4. Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the lip of pinion seal.
5. Install the new pinion shaft seal with Installer 8108 and Handle 4171. NOTE: The seal is correctly installed when the seal flange contacts the face of the differential housing flange.
6. Position the pinion yoke on the end of the shaft with the reference marks aligned.
7. Seat yoke on pinion shaft with Installer C-3718 and Wrench 6719.
8. Remove the tools and install the pinion yoke washer and nut. CAUTION: Do not exceed the minimum tightening torque when installing the pinion yoke retaining nut at this point. Damage to collapsible spacer, if equipped, or bearings may result.
9. Hold pinion yoke with Yoke Holder 6719 and tighten shaft nut to 291.5 Nm (215 ft. lbs.) . Rotate pinion shaft several revolutions to ensure the bearing rollers are seated.
10. Rotate the pinion shaft using a (inch lbs.) torque wrench. Rotating resistance torque should be equal to the reading recorded during removal, plus an additional 0.56 Nm (6 inch lbs.) . CAUTION: Never loosen pinion gear nut to decrease pinion gear bearing rotating torque and never exceed specified preload torque. If preload torque is exceeded a new pinion nut and collapsible spacer, if equipped, must be installed. The torque sequence will then have to be repeated.
11. If the rotating torque is low, use Yoke Holder 6719 to hold the pinion yoke and tighten the pinion shaft nut in 6.8 Nm (5 ft. lbs.) increments until proper rotating torque is achieved. NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be constant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If the rotating torque varies, this indicates a binding condition.
12. Install the propeller shaft with the installation reference marks aligned.
13. Tighten the universal joint yoke clamp screws to 19 Nm (14 ft. lbs.) .
14. Install the brake drums.
15. Add gear lubricant to the differential housing.
16. Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower the vehicle.



























Performance Car & Truck
Diesel Performance
Denver , Colorado



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Devin_01

Well i got the diff done and wasnt that hard at all. I think i spent more time cleaning than pulling apart and putting together. The only think you need is a dial indicator and a good book and it takes no time at all to set it up. It was defenetly worth doing myself as i saved myself over $1000 instead of letting someone else do it.

Tocapet

No, it doesn't they replaced ALL the bearings and clutches in the positrac rear end and completely set it up again.

Fullsizeyota

ok you changed my mind... you went from screwed to killer deal since you through in that info

do you know how many clutches are in those? like 5

bigbrowndog

I just got a replacement axle as the pinion housing on mine disintegrated when the pinion went. They cut the brake hose to the axle block on the replacement axle and the brake hose won't come off. Can I simply remove the entire axle block and replace it with the one from my old axle

SIXSLUG

I was gonna suggest Randy's Ring and Pinion in the states for parts. I have read that there is room for more clutch plates in the 80, but the factory only gives you 5. Kurt