Jer12377

Does anyone know the size socket I need to remove the pinion nut on my Dana 80? I measured it with a dial caliper and it measures 1.853". The closest size socket my math tells me, without going under, is a 48mm. Also can I remove the right side (passenger side) shock hanger and weld it to the back side (so it points to the rear instead of the front) of the rear end to make it work? Thanks

pulltilbroke

iirc i used an 1 7/8

ghenges

Yes, but be cautious of the amount of weld heat applied.
Welding shrinks metal and can bend the axle tube. The Dana 80 tube is really thick so it probably won't bend significantly.
Check for straightness after welding, if bent apply a cherry red heat strip with an acetylene torch to the opposite side to bring it back.

When new our 1992 W350 was wearing front tires excessively.
The Dana 60 axle was found to be distorted from the factory.
We circulated carbon dioxide though the axle and used an acetylene torch to heat shrink it back to specs.
Yea, we knew we could have installed camber correcting wedge shims or adjustable king pin kit, but we are hard headed like that.


.

Mcmopar

"We circulated carbon dioxide though the axle and used an acetylene torch to heat shrink it back to specs."



OMG, Global warming gases in your rearend????

Jer12377

I am assuming the socket has to be a regular chrome not an impact so it will fit in the yoke? Also it says in the D80 manual it is torqued to 500ft/lbs, did you have any problems getting it off or do you have any suggestions. Thanks

How did you check it for straightness? Did you just use a straight edge on the tube or set up a dial indicator....? I have a rose bud for my Oxy/Acet torch so heating isn't a problem. The factory welds are only 2 or 3 inches long so I don't think it will be a problem also, but I still want to check it before and after anyway. Thanks

pulltilbroke

Yes, I went to Harbor Freight and got the socket then had to grind the outside of it to it the new yoke

When I took the nut off I couldn't get it by hand so I put a long cheater on the breaker bar and then put the truck in 4wd and drove forward letting the cheater come in contact with the frame and popped the clutch real quick to knock the nut loose. It was a PIA

Jer12377

Well I borrowed a 1 7/8" craftsman socket (it fit with no grinding) and a 3/4" snap-on ratchet. With a 3' handle on the ratchet and a 2' pipe wrench on the pinion, I was jumping on the ratchet handle and no luck. A torch is next, especially since the pinion is junk where the u-joint fits in.
I am trying to not destroy the pinion shaft as I am going to try to sell the limited slip dif and 4.10 gears I am taking out to help pay for more parts.

My question is whose gears to buy? The Yukon brand keeps coming up, but I would like to here from you guys that have been there and done that. I found the Dana/Spicer brand gears for a min $200 more than everyone else. These are the ones I am looking at now http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDet...px?ProdID=3998 . I still have to buy a ring and pinion installation kit, new brakes, drums, brake hardware, outer bearings and seals. So the extra $200 is a lot right now.

pulltilbroke

I would go with genuine spicer stuff

93flatbed

If you can, I'd go with the spicer also. I've used the yukon gear sets before and they are not of the same quility (but the 3 sets I've done for people are still going) Also please note this was on light duty 1/2 ton trucks.

I will assume an Impact is not availble to you? If so then a good half inch will take the pinion nut off! Other wise Pulltilbroke gave you the best advice.
Good luck

Jer12377

Can you be more specific? What was of less quality from the Yukon to the Spicer? Thanks.

I wish I could take Pulltilbroke's advice. I am rebuilding the rear in my work shop in my basement and my air compressor needs parts. I guess now that I have it striped I could bring it to my neighbors and borrow a 3/4" gun.

Purplezr2

I have taken them our with my 1/2 inch impact.

93flatbed

Well just the looks and the feel of it. I know that sounds stuipd, but I'm always rebuilding diffs and the gear sets just don't "look/feel" good. I wish I could be more discriped when I'm typing this...But as I said, I've used them before and havn't had a problem. Also someone may chime in and say that they are having good luck with a set they have put in.

And I would got to the neighbors house with a 6 pack and a smile on my face.

Jer12377

I know what you mean. Its like the difference between a Chrome Vanadium (China) wrench and a Snap-On or SK (USA). I always like OEM also, its just I am low on funds this month and the Spicer sets I have found start around $500. That and I really want my truck back and to try out that ARB air locker.

LMAO! The more I think about it.......Yea. He drinks Corona and I hate it! Its going to have to be two 6-packs. LOL

Jer12377

Will this work? Boy I sure hope so cause this is the best deal I have found yet. http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-31881_froogle.htm

pulltilbroke

Have you thought about a set of used spicers

Might want to check the classified over on CompD, theres always somone changing gears over there