mullishacrew

on my 1993 4x4 ram 250 i am installing the rear nyloc nuts on both sides and would like to know the torque of those nuts? i herd they were only supposed to be 20 lb-ft, but then i was just reading in my 4x4 book that the wheel-bearing lock(outer) is supposed to be 160 lb-ft, now is that part different then the nyloc nut?, and what is the real lb-ft? because 160 lb-ft seams like it would be hard on the bearings and is more torque then the lug nuts. thanks Gregg

Chrisreyn

Teh FSM calls for 120-140 ftlbs, then back it off 1/3 of a turn IIRC....
Dont forget to reinstall teh nut retainer clips after tightening the nuts!!!!


https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1

dpuckett

Chrisreyn got it right. I back mine off around 90-100 deg. Enough to take off some of the load off the bearings, but not enough to allow much slack.

DP

RumbleFish

Yeah, make sure you back it off some. This, uhhh, guy I know, didn't do that. Seems he was in the middle of replacing a wheel cylinder and read the FSM in a hurry. Torqued the nut to 130 ft-lb and buttoned everything up. Then 6 months later when he replaced parking brake cables, the drum didn't want to come off. Using it like a slide hammer, the bearing was pounded off. Scarring on the spindle was minimal. This guy says he read the rest of the FSM and now knows better.

pocketchange

With these torque procedure(s) coming from locations other than DANA,
here is what was suggested (to me).

Spinning the freshly assembled hub (assuming it's done correctly).
Torque to 70 ft lbs., back the nut off 1/4 turn and re-torque to 20 ft' lbs..

The hub should now spin with aprox. 20 in lbs input.
If there is ANY play or the hub does not spin freely re-examine your assembly effort.

A good synthetic gear lube (Amsoil, Neo, etc., etc..) is recommended.

Note; should the seal have cut/grooved the housing NATIONAL Seal #417487
is a 2 lip design. the outer surface is designed as a contamination shield for the interior seal surface.
PN#99-300 is a housing seal shim (3") if the housing is worn to the point of being a concern.

If you heavy haul, change your lube every 15k (& i do).

NJTman

Yup, he's right.... and it's supposed to be replaced each time it's removed.

Change it over to the double nut configuration, and you can forget about the nyloc nuts forever

kensmachine

I dont like the nyloc nuts on your trucks. I put new nuts and keepers on with a brake job and had to go back in to the brakes to replace a E brake cable about a year later and found that the nuts had backed off and waded the little keeper up. I replaced it with the old stile 2 nuts and a lock washer Ken

user name

don't forget to pack the bearings with grease and I'd go with factory procedures listed above the reason for that is to get the grease squished out. Also you turn the drum while doing the initial torque.

NJTman

I just cant understand why the FSM indicates to contaminate your gear lube.

Since the rear wheel bearings are "immersed" in gear oil once the truck starts moving, for the life of me, I cannot get myself to "grease" the rear bearings upon assembly.

I simply jack up the opposite side of the axle, and allow gear oil to enter the hub through gravity feeding. Then I do the same for the other side.

IMO... and that's My OPinIon.... adding grease to gear oil contaminates it... Maybe it doesn't. I don't know. Does anyone have any proof of such ?


I may be wrong, and I have been before, but greasing the rear bearings just doesn't make any sense to me....

Both the FSM, and Dana's own website say to "pack your bearings with grease". I sincerely believe that they're referencing axle models where the bearings are not lubricated by gear oil immersion... such as in a front axle of our trucks. It makes complete sense there, but not in the rear axles.

Have any of you here ever found your rear full floater bearings packed with grease ?????

David and mark were discussing this in another forum:
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/89...ng-grease.html

this has been discussed before in this site as well
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...es-t91840.html





I've been disassembling cars and trucks for nearly 30 years, and I've never found it to be the case.

user name

I've done it both ways but once saw both sides go out in under 1000 miles (wrecked everything) and from that point on I will always pack bearings in the rear especially if they are new bearings. I also don't think the oil "washes" the grease out completely and it still helps. My 2 cents.

user name

Also no need to over grease the only stuff that does anything is what gets packed in between the rollers so not much should really go into the oil.

NJTman

If you go back to the thread that is from this site... just archived, it has mentioned someone who packed too much grease in them which prevented gear lube from entering the hub. That doesn't sound right either.


That's what I get for reading the FSM>

NJTman

Ken,

Bearkiller told me about this a few weeks back. I ordered the kits from Rockauto, and I just installed them today.

Thanks BK for the tips..... I feel more comfortable with the new setup,

Dorman Part # 05306



T.