cumminsdriver635

Its dead. Pinion has a nice chunk gone. Guess i will be putting new ring/pinion etc in it. Hopefully back running by next Monday.

http://kydtr.com/iboard/index.php?showtopic=5939

Eric

TxDiesel007

Sorry man

best of lcuk in gettin ur truck back on the road...

Tx

ataboy9026

Well there have been many in your shoes......... but with some mechanical ability and some advice I'm sure you can do it. I have set up hundreds of rear gears and I have only ever seen 1 bearing that was bad, and that one was run without any oil. So dont waste money on bearings. But for the initial setting put the stock pinion shim onto the new pinion. That will get you pretty close if not perfect, usually. Then you set what is bearing preload. You need to be able to spin the yoke around with one or two fingers gripping an "ear" of the yoke. But you need to be sure you dont need to grip it with a tight hand in order to turn it. And also... you shouldn't be able to spin the yoke and it keep turning after you let go, as to free spin. and be sure to have a light coat of oil on the bearings, not too much as to get on the gear teeth as it will affect your gear pattern reading later. Just enough so it isn't dry. Then install ring gear onto carrier after using a flat file on the ring gear flange to make sure there isn't any burs on it. Then put in the diff and set backlash to about .006". And then set differental bearing preload. You shouldn't be able to check backlash by moving ring gear with one finger, you will need to grab ring gear with a grip to move it. You may need to add shims and it will be more difficult to install diff with the correct preload. Then look at pattern. I could go on here but if you need advice feel free to call me at 574-596-4291.

cumminsdriver635

Thanks a lot for the info ataboy!! I may end up calling you if i decide to try it myself. Heck. I can try it myself 3 times for what i can pay someone to do it once. I think the bearings are good. I hate to drag it to someones shop when i could posswibly do it myself, and learn something in the process. The only shim i found was one on the pinion gear. Does that sound right? Like i said. I am not for sure what i am gonna do yet, but i may end up calling you if i do it myself. I was looking at whole rear ends for $700, but couldnt find one with a limited slip and drum brakes with 3.54's. Not yet anyway. By the time i buy all the stuff, and pay someone to do it, i could probably put a whole new rear end in, and come out cheaper by selling my other one. I also thought about buying the axle i found without limited slip, and putting my spider gears, and all in it so i have limited slip, and using the ring gear that it has in it. I dont know yet, but i will keep you all updated. Wont i have to buy an install kit to get the shims though? That is around $150 if i need that.Thanks again!

Eric

ataboy9026

No you dont need the whole kit. There are "bassic" install kits available with shims,cover gasket,pinion seal,crush sleeve, and gear marking compound for about 30 bucks. Randys ring and pinion or Reider racing, even Summit and Jeg's should have them. The Ratech company makes these kits, and maybe others but I am sure you can get one.And yes you could just put your posi unit into a good single trac if you find one. just check the backlash before you take the single trac out and then make sure your exactly that when your unit is back in. Or even .001-.003 tighter than it was but never tighter than .006 overall on a used gear set.Usually about .008-.0012 is what it should be for that size of ring gear. But call if you need info. You know I may sell mine because I dont do much towing and I have a good Dana 60 here with 3.36 gears and open diff I was thinking of installing just to get a little better mileage. Not sure so just keep looking cause I wont want to feel rushed to change mine and I'm sure you need to get back on the road real soon.And I would probably want top dollar for mine cause its very good and tight posi.

cumminsdriver635

Well. I know where i can get a good Dana 70 with 3:54's but it doesent have limited slip. It has the brake drums, brakes, and all on it, and hes only asking $500(he deals with wrecked vehicles. This one came out of a burnt truck). Seems to me like the best way to go would be for me to buy this one, and swap my posi into it... Seems like that would be my cheapest option anyway. I just really dont want an open diff. Dont worry about rushing changine yours a bit. It would probably be more hassle than it was worth after it was all said and done, because i would have to come get it, and everything else. I just wish so bad the axle i am looking at was already a limited slip! If it was, then there would be no question about it. I would already have it home, and be putting it in. So what exactly is backlash, and how do you check it/adjust it? I miss my truck bad Sucks diving a town and country minivan to school And i only get to drive that if im lucky. Other days i just have to find a ride home(mom can take me in the morning). Oh well. Hopefully it will be back up and running soon.

Eric

Underpsi

I blew the pinion in my truck but that was i was doing burnouts by dumping the clutch i sure did learn my lesson after that.

ataboy9026

Get the rear end and put your posi in it. Just pull out the diff, unbolt the ring gear,put it onto your posi and re-install. Backlash is the "clearence" between the pinion gear teeth and the ring gear teeth. If you hold the pinion tightly as so it will not turn even a little then grab the ring gear and rotate it back and forth. You will see the movement and hear a "thunk" sound as the teeth touch each other foreward and again backward. If you put a dial indicator so it will touch a ring gear tooth you can measure the backlash. Dont try to do this without a dial indicator, they are cheap(China brands are under 30 buck with a magnetic base) Or just an indicator and use a small piece of angle iron and drill a hole where it can be bolted to a diff cover hole and another for the indicator where it can get a reading. The magnet way is pretty cheap and a lot more handy,and quick. And it can be positioned anywhere. It may take a few different holes into the angle to get it near "just right" for an accurate reading. Not sure if the time fabricating a mount is worth the $20 or so for the magnet.

cumminsdriver635

We looked at my old bearings in my differential now, and they are worn, so how do you go about getting the bearings off/on each side of the differential? I fi get the axle, i will just have to switch the bearings out also, but its looking like that is my cheapest alternative, granted i can sell my old axle when im done.Thanks a lot!

Eric

mr T

sorry to hear about ur troubles eric....i was happy for ya when u got the goerends TC....but this sucks...hope its not too costly and that u can get the majority of the fix done by yourself....best of luck

Andrew

cumminsdriver635

Yeah. I believe i will come out OK on it though... If i buy the axle for $500, and i know i can swap it myself, then i think i can surley get $300 out of mine. I know someone out there would love a dana 70 to swap some 4.56 gears into for a rock crawler or something. I think $300 for an axle is plenty cheap, and i dont think i would sell it for less than that because it would have the brake drums and all. I seriously believe I could about come out even on this because dad priced an axle somewhere else, and they wanted $1300 for an axle with no brakes or anything! Ill just be glad to have it fixed It just plain SUCKS not having your truck(or anything else) to drive. Ill get it worked out before long. Hopefully by the middle of this week maybe? What i really wish is that the guy with the d70 for $500 had an 80 with limited slip, and 3.54's. He would sell that to me for the same price if he had one, but he doesent... He also has an axle there with disc brakes that is a 70 with 3.54's, but unless i buy different wheels i cant run disc brakes Of course i would like to have some aftermarket wheels Anyway. I appreciate the concern/help guys! This is a great site. Ill get er back together before long Just gotta grin and bear it.

Eric

cumminsdriver635

Well. Thanks for all the help guys! I found a complete axle just like my old one in Indiana, and went and got it yesterday. It is in the truck, and working great now. I might try to part out my old axle. Thanks again for the help. Glad to be back in my truck(something with some power )

Eric

UptownSport

Whoaa, how are all these 70's getting broken?
I had a couple Q's since my fathers has one.
The 60's we had you needed a spreader tool to adjust preload.
The pinion depth and lash were an interplay with shims.
I recall using Prussian Blue to check the engagement.
Has this all changed in the last three decades? No more spreader?
And that 60 lasted the life of all the vehicles we had, even when used beyond its design. Is this 'new' 70 poorly built?

CTD NUT

The D70's are built just as well as the 60's and yes you do need a case spreader to remove and install the carrier when it has the proper amount of carrier bearing preload. If the carrier slides in and out of the housing without the spreader on the D60 or 70, there is NOT enough preload on the carrier bearings!! The D60 and 70 use the same carrier and pinion bearings with the exception of the D70 HD.