cylinder head weight
#1
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cylinder head weight
I've been cautioned against attempting to replace the head gasket on my truck without an assistant. I assume this to be due to the weight of the cylinder head. How much does one weigh?
Also should I have some sort of overhead lift to do this or can me and a couple of friends safely lift the head out? If it is a heavy beast, then the worst case scenario is I would drop it on me, the second worst scenario is that I would drop the head on some hard surface and damage it, a very expensive mistake.
Ted
Also should I have some sort of overhead lift to do this or can me and a couple of friends safely lift the head out? If it is a heavy beast, then the worst case scenario is I would drop it on me, the second worst scenario is that I would drop the head on some hard surface and damage it, a very expensive mistake.
Ted
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Thumper549, now that I have a ballpark weight of the cylinder head, I'd like to know a bit more about the gasket replacement. Did you have a shop manual to guide you through the head gasket replacement? I have the Haynes manual.
It seems like the most important points to remember are to drain the coolant, unbolt the thing, gently coerce the head to break loose from the block, prepare the new gasket, check the head for warpage and the head studs for stretching, machine the head and replace the studs if necessary, sandwich the gasket between the block and head and then bolt it back together and refill with coolant.
Though this is a rough description only, have I left anything important out? Oh yeah, the overarching rule of thumb is to keep everything clean while I am working so no dirt makes its way into the engine!
Ted
It seems like the most important points to remember are to drain the coolant, unbolt the thing, gently coerce the head to break loose from the block, prepare the new gasket, check the head for warpage and the head studs for stretching, machine the head and replace the studs if necessary, sandwich the gasket between the block and head and then bolt it back together and refill with coolant.
Though this is a rough description only, have I left anything important out? Oh yeah, the overarching rule of thumb is to keep everything clean while I am working so no dirt makes its way into the engine!
Ted
#5
You are asking a loaded Q.
Reason for repair ?
Miles on eng ?
You have most of the bases covered
You might want to have it checked for cracks ( very prone )
Buy a Cummings Manuel and NEW head bolts
The Torq. Sequence and angle method is better outlined in the Manuel
Then whilst there....if needed or a up graded exhaust manifold
Pressure check inter cooler.
Clean the radiator The back side can be filthy and maybe flow and pressure check it...
( I hate re dos )
Reason for repair ?
Miles on eng ?
You have most of the bases covered
You might want to have it checked for cracks ( very prone )
Buy a Cummings Manuel and NEW head bolts
The Torq. Sequence and angle method is better outlined in the Manuel
Then whilst there....if needed or a up graded exhaust manifold
Pressure check inter cooler.
Clean the radiator The back side can be filthy and maybe flow and pressure check it...
( I hate re dos )
#6
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You are asking a loaded Q.
Reason for repair ?Miles on eng ?
You have most of the bases covered
You might want to have it checked for cracks ( very prone )
Buy a Cummings Manuel and NEW head bolts
The Torq. Sequence and angle method is better outlined in the Manuel
Then whilst there....if needed or a up graded exhaust manifold
Pressure check inter cooler.
Clean the radiator The back side can be filthy and maybe flow and pressure check it...
( I hate re dos )
Reason for repair ?Miles on eng ?
You have most of the bases covered
You might want to have it checked for cracks ( very prone )
Buy a Cummings Manuel and NEW head bolts
The Torq. Sequence and angle method is better outlined in the Manuel
Then whilst there....if needed or a up graded exhaust manifold
Pressure check inter cooler.
Clean the radiator The back side can be filthy and maybe flow and pressure check it...
( I hate re dos )
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#8
the head bolt on front rightside of engine is prone to breaking.ie coolant leak on right side front of head. also head bolts should be replaced with new.ps. bare cylinder head no manifolds 150lbs.
#10
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If you have a cherry picker you are fine taking it off by yourself. When you are putting it back on I would try to find a helper so that you can line it up properly without hurting the HG. I did mine on my 06 mostly by myself, and there was no way I was going to try to take it off without a cherry picker. You have the just of the repair, just make sure that you either get NEW head bolts or get studs. Also, make sure that you torque them down properly, in sequence or it could cause the gasket to not set properly and leaque again. I think your hayes manual would have the proper procedure, if not I am sure I can find the sequence and post it here for you for a 06, should be the same for your truck.
#12
My neighbor...a big guy, and I took mine off the engine...way too heavy/bad position. Reinstalled with an engine hoist...very nice, easy positioning and didn't mess up the $84 head gasket.
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If it is broke, does this mean a major drill tap operation to replace it?
Thanks again,
Ted
#15
The truck has 180k and change on it, and the block to head seam is always wet with coolant at the passenger side front corner of the engine, just under the thermostat. I have to replace coolant in the overflow bottle at the rate of about maybe 1 - 2 cups per month. I've replaced the thermostat but the leakage persists, so I am thinking I may have to do the head gasket soon. thanks for the pointers!