Hammered Scout

Just droped the trans and flywheel for the clutch job and found the rear seal leaking a bit. Is it possible to change out the rear round seal around the end of the crank? How?Any special tools?

greenwing

I'll be interested to see what you find out about this because I plan on putting a clutch in mine in the coming months and would also like to put a rear main in while the trans. is out.

Tate

Theres two ways of doing it. You can pull off the bellhousing adapter, and you'll see the seal housing. 8 bolts removes that, and you can replace the seal on the bench. Second way is leaving it all together on the engine. Drill two holes in the seal, run a self tapping screw into each so you can pry it out. Then just install the new seal. The seal comes with an installation tool to set it in square and to the right depth. There will be a plastic ring on the ID of the seal. Leave that on until you get it installed. I didn't (haynes never mentioned anything about it other than to install it dry), and now it leaks worse than before. I must've damaged it when I slipped it onto the crank.

Jeremy Cusick

I'm glad I spotted this... reminded me that I need to go to the CUmmins dealer thursday to pick up a rear seal and a set of valve cover gaskets. Figure that since it's down w/ a clutch and trans swap waiting, I may as well stop up some oil leaks while I'm at it.

BTW, anyone have any idea what that rear seal and V/C gaskets will run? (Gotta make sure I have enough cash to even buy em.)

Jeremy Cusick

Oh, and does the rear seal come w/ any loctite that we're supposed to use on the flange of it?

Tate

No loctite, it has a rubber seal on the OD that fits into the housing. Lube it with some soapy water before install. I got a jobber seal for $45, Cummins wanted $70 (and was a 45 min drive away), dealer wanted something rediculous like $140.

Jeremy Cusick

Hmmm.... I'm wondering if NAPA would have one at that price and also have the V/C gaskets. They'd probably have to order all of it LOL!

PourinDiesel

Dont pull the seal housing it usually results in a ripped oil pan gasket.
I would drill the rear seal gasket and pull it.

Jeremy Cusick

Yeah, that's the way I plan on doing it. The less stuff I have to take apart, the better.

Once the seal's out, will there be enough room to get the crank wiped free of oil, or will I have a fight on my hands there?

PourinDiesel

You will have plenty of room to wipe it up.

Jeremy Cusick

That's good news. I called Blumenthal's today since my tranny was supposed to be here yesterday. Turns out, they had to assemble one because they were out of stock. Should have it friday or monday. I'm ready to get my truck up and runnin again. The transmission ate itsself 2 months ago!

PapaSmurf

Thanks Gents for the great information.
Somewhere around the end of the month I to will be replace placing a worn out clutch.
I was planning on installing a new rear main seal 125K on the ole girl now.

Thanks again
See Ya
Chris

Geico266

I think alittle seepage is normal, but I replaced mine also when I had the tranny rebuilt. Better to do it when you have the tranny off IMHO.