JSPulliam21

Just like the title says.

CTD NUT

Nope....welding should be regarded as a temporary fix. If welded, it will crack again.

Lock N Stitch is the only way to permanently repair the crack that I'm aware of. Ask me how I know!

99globalwarmer

yep lock n stitch is the only way,

Mike Stowe

CTD Nut, just out of curiosity, what does the Lock and Stitch process cost?

pull-do

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ht=lock+stitch

Make sure and read all the posts, so of the guys got new motors from Cummins

CTD NUT

The complete repair kit along with the 53 block re-enforcement bracket kit will set you back roughly $800 USD. The bracket kit is the pricey part of the deal but mandatory for a successful repair.

getblown5.9

the block is cast right? and i thought you couldn't weld cast metal?

CTD NUT

Yes, you can successfully weld many different cast metals. However, cast iron in general, isn't regarded as a weldable metal by the welding industry but, that said, certain iron alloys can be welded with some success...especially with some of the newer metal core wires out on the market now....though, the integrity of the welded iron can be difficult to determine. Most iron alloys are not weldable....you can burn a weld into them but it won't be worth a darn thing. In general, if you have a cast iron component (regardless of the specific alloy) that you rely to have good structural integrity, welding a crack will not be a permanent solution for a repair....it will almost certainly crack again....and in the case of the 53 block, it doesn't work at all.

JSPulliam21

Thanks for all the info. I thought it sounded too easy.

county cowboy

well i tight for $ so me and my disel man welded mine up with the buz box and it keep burning a few holes but we finly got a pretty good weld on it and then took the freaz plugs out and put some Jb weld on the inside filled back up with water and put some block sealer coper stuff in the water it was beading out some when we first cranked it then drove home and i did not see a leak , i drained the water and im leting it sit the sealer says over 12 hours so ill see how it does ,

if not i replace the block whats it gona hert ya know .

has a any one ever put the block sement in thers ? this is some kinda stuff that some uses in race trucks to fill the water cavaty but if i do this i would only fill it to the top of the crack

J Lent

I welded my block when it first cracked.....it still seeped out a little. Then I poured in some Dyke....sealed it right up & best part is Dyke is activated by antifreeze & washes completely out of the engine with straight water. I replaced the block shortly after, but it did work....just couldn't live with knowing that it was cracked.

dutchboy

Mine has 161k no cracks, I would replace the block and sleep well. I've heard ther are several different 53 casts. Does anyone know if there is a specific cast that has a weakness?

JSPulliam21

Where can I find this DYKE?

county cowboy

what i used was Bars coper additive . i have to let it set for 12 hours so i gess we will see if its fixed tomarrow i shure hope so .

J Lent

I bought mine at a Freightliner service shop, but check with Napa, big truck shops etc. It shouldn't be hard to find....read directions before using. It did work for my truck, but no gaurantee....don't get mad at me if it doesn't.