oaborbag

Okay so before you say "just do a search on it" I want to say I have!!! and I have read about 20 different responses on what to do, varying from don't retorque them after one heat cycle, to people retorquing them after every oil change, and the amount of torque varies as well, some people stick with 125 ft/lbs and others go all the way up to 140 ft/lbs.

What I have done so far is torqued them as the ARP box said, 25/50/75/100/125, then took off the nuts re-applied moly lube and torqued to 125 again. Started the truck got it to operating temperature, let it cool and took the nuts off again applied moly lube and torqued back down to 125. Then today I took it for a drive, never building boost at all really probably 2 psi at most, then brought it back home and parked it.

The next part is what I'm unsure of, I've heard of people going 1000 miles then setting the wrench to desired torque and without loosening the nuts torquing them again, and I've heard of people now going up to about 130 ft/lbs at this point and then checking them again after another interval.

Which is the best way to do it? I also can't stand adjusting the valves every time, seems like they take forever to get right, you think you have it right, tighten up the retainer nut and then its either too tight or too loose even though I held it still with an allen. Advice please!!!

Edit: I guess I should also ask, what kind of antifreeze is recommended? I have no "diesel" shops near me, so going to one of them to get some is out of hte question, I have your typical Napa/Autozone/Kragen O'Reillys near me and they carry prestone etc. Thanks.

dieselman2300

I did mine as per the ARP specs for the first cycle.
I then retorqued them with a HOT engine to 140ft/lbs.
I drove a tank of diesel (450 miles), then did another HOT re-torque.
I then drove the heck out of her for 1500 miles and did my final HOT re-torque.

They have been holding for abou a year with a Silver Bullet and a ton of fuel and water/meth.

I am going to re-torque check them again soon.

NOW,
You will get mixed replies on HOT vs COLD re-torques. I did mine hot because I had several big dog diesel builders say thats the way they do all theirs.

oaborbag

on any of your retorque's did you loosen and apply lube? or just checked to see if they needed to be tightened any? I have read very little about torquing them with a hot engine though. I only weigh 160 lbs so getting 140 ft/lbs would be pretty hard for me to get at least all 26 of them haha.
Just curious why did you choose 140 ft/lbs?

dieselman2300

On my second re-torque, I applied more moly lube. The last retorque, I just loosened and re-torqued considering the moly lube was still dripping off the nuts.
I'm only 175lbs, and yes its quite a pull to 140ft/lbs.
I choose 140ft/lbs, because that is the torque all the high HP guys run on Comp. Diesel.

If you think 140ft/lbs, is hard, I had to do my pinion nut on my Dana 80 and thats 500ft/lbs. I had to jump on the torque wrench to get it to click.

oaborbag

what kind of wrench are you using for your 140 ft/lbs? I have a craftsman 1/2" drive I have, of course the handle isn't extremely long so it makes trying to get the back nuts tight a challenge.

Anyone else have opinions on the sequence? I've done one heat cycle torque's I'm going to drive it some this week real easy and then retorque at the end of the week, haven't decided on hot or cold, then go about 1000 miles or a few weeks and retorque again, hot or cold haven't decided again. then have at it, and recheck after a month of driving it hard. Hopefully it holds after that with the o-rings.

dieselman2300

SK tools-1/2" drive it has a 30" handle goes to 250ft/lbs.