Coolant leak, wheres it coming from?
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Coolant leak, wheres it coming from?
I have a small coolant leak that leaves a small puddle right under my transmission, the inspection cover area. I looked around and it might be coming out of the number 6 exhaust area? or maybe its running down by the water pump and rolling its way back along the oil pan lip and finally dripping off the trans?
anyone suggest the best way to find the leak?
anyone suggest the best way to find the leak?
#2
Take a mirror and look around the rear 3 cylinders on top and under the exhaust manifold area.The 12v head is well known to crack in this area due to heat and then it will run down the passenger side of the block,the bellhousing and drop to the ground.My original head cracked in between cylinders 5 and 6 and resembled the Grand Canyon.
Also look at the rear of the head and make sure none of the freeze plugs are weeping.Look at you heater hoses and see if they could be weeping at the firewall.......Andy
Also look at the rear of the head and make sure none of the freeze plugs are weeping.Look at you heater hoses and see if they could be weeping at the firewall.......Andy
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I did the coolant mod, and its not leaking at all. I didn't see any cracks in the head. should I wash off all the oil and try to find it? could it be coming from the front cover area?
#7
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I've seen a couplle of trucks where the small cooler tank under/behind the turbo had a leak coming from the hoses. that will leave a small leak like that sometimes.
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What is the coolant mod? never heard of this one. I LIKE your ford front axle, way better than the factory jobs and a lot beefier. What axle did you use? One from a 78-79 or the newer style from 86 on? Is it a king pin or a ball joint? How hard was the conversion? I've got a few ford front 60s laying around king pin ones, I might tackle this on mine.
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how much is the torque value on the head bolts?
The ford axle is out of a 95 F-350. its high pinion, 35 spline, lockouts, everything I wanted. I know of a few that have put kingpin axles in, but they had to inboard their coil buckets an inch or two because of clearance issues.
heres a bunch of pics of the swap: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/414017/9
#12
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Basically you just start at either the front left or right bolt and make your way down that row to the back then move over to the next row and work your way to the front then over to the last row and to the back again. You can do it in the regular sequence if you feel more comfortable with it. Line torquing seems to be a field techs procedure? I would back each bolt off a quarter turn or so and re-pull them down to 130ftlb with a known calibrated wrench and see if it clamps it down again. This will only buy you some time if it works and it might not work if the leak is well established but I have seen it work enough times to make it worth the effort.
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