AH64ID

I am due for my 60 month coolant change and will be adding a coolant filter at the same time. I have some parts on order from Fleetguard, A WF2133 Non-additive coolant filter, and 257715S filter base.

I have searched and found a few threads of people talking about them, and Gary's 2nd gen install. But no 3rd gen installs..

So any pics? Thoughts?

Here is the Fleetguard Brochure

I am not sure if the Fleetguard filter has a built in restriction or not. But either way my plan is to take coolant from the plug between #5 & #6 and return it to the heater core return. I will use a shut-off valve and a check valve for easy/dry filter changes and to ensure the coolant goes the correct way :-)

What I am not positive of is where the heater core return goes to? Does it go directly to the suction side of the water pump? What I don't want to do is end up bypassing the thermostat with the coolant filter and make my motor even slower to warm up.. Nor do I want to have the pressure from the filter line push the coolant backwards thru the heater core.

I also think that the flow coming from the back of the head will increase coolant flow around #'s 5&6 which are prone to run much hotter than 1-4. So its not quite like a Opie bypass, but for close to stock power and stock rpm's it should be good enough.

NickBeek

I don't think the coolant filter is needed on these trucks. I changed my coolant out this summer at 100K miles and it was pristine. A lot of the 6.0 Ford guys put a coolant filter on their trucks and believe me they need them. Mine after 75K miles was nasty.........

AH64ID

No its not necessary, but its cheap and can't hurt... Are my 3 other extra filters necessary? Nope.. but same reason.

Hvytrkmech

If your truck has the extended life coolant then do not run a filter with dca additive. You really do not need a filter with elc, but, you will not hurt anything by installing one.

AH64ID

Yeah I figured that one out. I will only be running non-additive/non-chemical filter.

I will call next week and get the specific ratings of the filter.

NickBeek

Some how I knew that would be your answer. I hear you though.

Jeff in TD

The coolant that flows through the heater core flows when the thermostat is closed, so putting the filter in that circuit I would think would slightly delay heat in the cab.

I agree with these guys, in that if you run Hoat and change every 60 months, I don't think you will ever see a failure due to corrosion or debris in the coolant, but adding a filter would still be kind of cool...

AH64ID

Yes I think it will add a slight delay, but nothing huge by just putting the coolant back into the return line. (I bet on a cold day we pull every drop of heat from the heater core anyhow)..

If I could find an in-line 1/2" thermostat that is the route I would go, but can't find one yet.

Jeff in TD

I don't think I'd mess with a seperate therostat, or at least not yet.

Put your filter in and see how it does. If there's no noticable decrease in available cab heat, or cold start to cab heat time, then it is a non-issue.

If the change is slight, then maybe zip tie some insulation around the filter and its hoses...

han solo

Instead of using the heater hoses, just use a orb fitting thats in the block. There is about 4 or more kinda behind the turbo area. The best one would around the oil filter. Then it would go from cylinder head to coolant filter then back to the block close to the front. Then not screwing with the cab heater core.

AH64ID

Well I may be putting the install off a few months, its bitter cold and I can find a location I am happy with for mounting it too the block.

Han Solo.. The fittings you are talking about, how do I know which way the coolant will flow?

Also I am thinking about tapping the fitting (or buying a "T" version) of the one on the back of the water pump where the heater hose dumps into the suction side. It looks like a 3/4" fitting, and more than enough metal to tap for a 1/4"-3/8" return hose from the filter.

han solo

Cylinder head is pressrue, block is return. I tried plumbing my webasto into the fitting that your talking about behind the water pump. It just turned into a nite mare. Then I noticed these plugs with allen heads, removed one, took it over to hyd shop had one the next day. Guess it all depends were you want coolant filter mounted. A filter without sca is a smaller filter. If I were you I would mount it behind the right fog area. There is bracket in there that would work perfect for you. Putting it on the right side of the engine would be good as the heater hoses from the engine to the filter would have a short run. Ill try to take a pic, but will have to e@mail to you. I have no idea how to post them.

cbx

I sat throught a chevron seminar the other day about coolants.

All of these new Organic Acid Technology (O.A.T.) coolants are pretty awesome.

No filters needed or SCA/DCA additives. It even mixes with the old stuff and its corrosion protection is insane. I was blown away by some of the info they showed us. No abrasion issues or stuff floating around in the system because of its properties.

I wouldn't even worry about a filter. After seeing what they put up. They even guarantty(sp?) it to 1 million miles with a recharge and 750,000 not being touched at all in Class 8 stuff.

Don't take it as me saying what to do. I just really feel that it truely isn't needed in the slightest.