Hippie816

Well this really sucks. Truck has been running really bad and pretty much quit running. I put in the shop and they changed the cam and crank sensors. No better. After reading on here for about a week seemed for sure it was injectors. I put a factory refurbished set in last night. Cranked it up and it idled smooth for a few minutes. Stepped on the accelerator and it died. Will not fire again. I have a FCA coming tomorrow. If this isn't the problem I'm going to freak out. Orignal problem was rough idle at startup and would die if you didn't keep your foot on the throttle. Also white smoke. We'll see if the FCA is the problem.

Spooler

Pull the power puck off it. Sounds like a bad high pressure sensor. Do you have a rail pressure gauge? That's where I would look or the rail relief valve is bad.

Hippie816

Finally stumbled across how to check the FCA and its fine. Is there any way to high pressure sensor or rail relief valve? Thanks

cgoaks77

Somebody told me that a person could unscrew the banjo bolt on the relief valve and then start your engine. If there was alot of air bubbles coming through, then the relief valve was bad. Don't know how true that is as this wasn't the problem in my situation (i.e. no air bubbles).
Someone just correct me if this is inaccurate.

Bankdude

Just look under the banjo bolt at the relief valve. It should be dry.

If it is wet, it could be a weak PRV or likely related to installation of injectors. Check to ensure the connector tubes are seated well.

Rail pressure guage would tell alot on that front as well.


have you tried taking off the Smarty, puck and quad to get the truck back to stock programming to see if problem still exists.

Any codes?

Hippie816

Cleared ecm, took off the puck, programmed back to stock, plugged the relief valve banjo bolt. Notta. Hits about two licks then dies. Sometimes will try to run at very low rpm but still stalls. Going to swap out rail sensors with a friends tomorrow and hope that is it.

Hippie816

rail sensor didn't help running out of ideas.

Bankdude

Just spitballing, but any chance you got a bad fuel load? Plugged filter?

Bankdude

A few ideas from the 2003 manual:

EXCESSIVE WHITE SMOKE
POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION

Air in fuel supply: Possible leak in fuel supply side (between transfer pump and fuel tank module).

Coolant leaking into combustion chamber. Do pressure test of cooling system

Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) active or multiple,intermittent DTC’s.
Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Information.

In very cold ambient temperatures, engine block heater is malfunctioning

Engine coolant temperature sensor malfunctioning. A DTC should have been set. Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Information. Also check
thermostat operation

Engine Control Module (ECM) not calibrated or has incorrect calibration.
A DTC should have been set. Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Information.

Fuel filter plugged. Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Manual for fuel system testing.

Fuel grade not correct or fuel quality is poor. Temporarily change fuel brands and note condition. Change brand if necessary.

Fuel heater element or fuel heater temperature sensor malfunctioning. This will cause wax type build-up in fuel filter.

Fuel injector malfunctioning. A DTC should have been set. Perform Cylinder cutout Test using DRB scan tool to isolate individual cylinders.

Fuel injector hold-downs loose. Torque to specifications.

Fuel injector protrusion not correct. Check washer (shim) at bottom of fuel injector for correct thickness.

Fuel injection pump malfunctioning. A DTC should have been set. Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Information.

Fuel supply side restriction to transfer pump. Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Manual for fuel system testing.

Fuel transfer (lift) pump malfunctioning. A DTC may have been set. Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Information.

Intake/Exhaust valve adjustments not correct (too tight).

Intake manifold air temperature sensor malfunctioning. A DTC should have been set. Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Information.

Intake manifold heater circuit not functioning correctly in cold weather.
A DTC should have been set. Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Information. Also check heater elements for correct operation.

Intake manifold heater elements not functioning correctly in cold weather.
A DTC should have been set if heater elements are malfunctioning. Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Information.

Internal engine damage (scuffed cylinder). Analyze engine oil and inspect oil filter to locate area of probable damage.

Restriction in fuel supply side of fuel system. Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Manual for fuel system testing.

Hippie816

We finally figured it out. We done both at the same time so I'm not sure which on it was but seeing how it kept fading over time betting it was trash. We took the FCA of and blowed it out. We cleaned the electrical connections and put it all back together. Presto!! $2500 dollars in parts to fix trash in the FCA. At least I won't have to change my injectors for a while. Baldwin is in the canister and a 2 micron from Glacier diesel will be here tomorrow. Thanks for the help

Don M

I love it when people come back and tell what they out found the problem was. Thanks!!!!!!!!

Hippie816

Problem arose again this evening. I had ordered a FCA anyways and it come in today. Thinking something may be broken with the plunger on the old one. Crossing my fingers

Hippie816

Seems like the FCA was the problem. Been running fine for two days. I believe the only real way to check a FCA is to swap it out with another. Geno's garage had on thier website to put 12+ volts to it to check it. My solenoid was working but there had to be something broken in the plunger area. I got an expensive education in Dodge common rail injection but if it helps someone else out I can make a list to start at the cheapest thing then go up.

rockcrawler304

Thanks for another update!

rick83864

Great. I assume your smoke trail is now black again!