Cold weather start
10-30-2011, 01:07 PM
#1
Cold weather start
Have a 99 batteries, starter and alternator all replaced in the past 2 years. When temps dip into low 40's or 30's the "wait to start" light is on longer then it barely wants to fire. Just getting ideas on what others might think the problem is. Did the same thing before I replaced the starter and shouldn't be going bad again.
Thanks
Hutch
Thanks
Hutch
10-30-2011, 01:20 PM
#2
Registered User
Have batteries load tested. Sounds like tired batteries, are they the right size? Check battery cables to starter and heater grid. Also check grounds. Does it turn over slow? Amp draw test the starter. The wait light will stay on longer the colder it is.
10-30-2011, 01:35 PM
#3
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make sure you dont have a drain pulling the batteries down clean cables are also very important . and like said load test the batteries and starter and as for the age of parts you cant go by that way to much garbage coming from China.! I see starters all the time that are 1 year old and junk
10-30-2011, 03:36 PM
#4
Thanks again.
10-30-2011, 08:16 PM
#5
Registered User
Thick oil. plug in your block heater or put it on a timer to come on a few hours before you head out.
Batteries may be weak. Watch the voltmeter so see if it drops to the left while your wait to start light is on. This is the draw from the grid heaters. They are located between the intake manifold and the intake tube on the left hand side top of the engine. They look like a spacer block with a heavy gauge black wire bolted to them.
Batteries may be weak. Watch the voltmeter so see if it drops to the left while your wait to start light is on. This is the draw from the grid heaters. They are located between the intake manifold and the intake tube on the left hand side top of the engine. They look like a spacer block with a heavy gauge black wire bolted to them.
10-31-2011, 12:39 PM
#6
Registered User
Temperatures in the 30's or even 20's wont affect the Cummins from starting normally. Matter of fact, not that I would want to try but the Cummins will start as low as -20* without being plugged in as long as the grid heaters are working. It may crank a slight bit slower than normal but thats only because you're turning over a lot of cold iron, the oil is thick, and the batteries are working hard. The batteries MUST be in optimal condition in the winter because of the grid heaters but if truly you made sure they are fine by independently load testing them then it sounds like your grid heaters aren't working properly. Here's a link that might help you out: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble...niford_htr.htm
10-31-2011, 07:49 PM
#7
Registered User
Yes, the Cummins will start at -20 after ten hours without being plugged in. I had to do it several times last winter as there are no plug ins where I worked in the winter. As long as the batteries are in premium condition she should fire up. It's not a happy thing, mind you, much groaning and protesting and some seriously bad noise from the power steering pump (gotta get synthetics in there for this year).
Cheers!
Mike
Cheers!
Mike
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10-31-2011, 08:41 PM
#8
Temperatures in the 30's or even 20's wont affect the Cummins from starting normally. Matter of fact, not that I would want to try but the Cummins will start as low as -20* without being plugged in as long as the grid heaters are working. It may crank a slight bit slower than normal but thats only because you're turning over a lot of cold iron, the oil is thick, and the batteries are working hard. The batteries MUST be in optimal condition in the winter because of the grid heaters but if truly you made sure they are fine by independently load testing them then it sounds like your grid heaters aren't working properly. Here's a link that might help you out: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble...niford_htr.htm
10-31-2011, 11:33 PM
#9
Registered User
I will do further investigation. But reading that and I think this is correct. If my wait to start light comes on and at colder temps is a little over ten seconds but will still fire but very slow all is well and more than likely weak batteries? Maybe just remove the batteries when cold and take them in to be checked. If it runs for awhile won't they have a better charge? Hope I am not sounding like an idiot. Dropping alot to redo the trans and making sure it's all worth it.
11-01-2011, 03:59 PM
#10
Registered User
There seems to be an aversion of plugging in for colder temps.
I start around now even though the temps are only in the mid 40's at night.
Its cheap if you use a timer and it eases a lot of wear and tear on the internals, in my opinion, if the block is warm and the oil can flow quickly and easily thru it. and the batteries don't need to work as hard.
I start around now even though the temps are only in the mid 40's at night.
Its cheap if you use a timer and it eases a lot of wear and tear on the internals, in my opinion, if the block is warm and the oil can flow quickly and easily thru it. and the batteries don't need to work as hard.
11-01-2011, 06:08 PM
#11
Registered User
There seems to be an aversion of plugging in for colder temps.
I start around now even though the temps are only in the mid 40's at night.
Its cheap if you use a timer and it eases a lot of wear and tear on the internals, in my opinion, if the block is warm and the oil can flow quickly and easily thru it. and the batteries don't need to work as hard.
I start around now even though the temps are only in the mid 40's at night.
Its cheap if you use a timer and it eases a lot of wear and tear on the internals, in my opinion, if the block is warm and the oil can flow quickly and easily thru it. and the batteries don't need to work as hard.
11-01-2011, 06:14 PM
#12
Back to the block heater and a very dumb question. My truck is from NC and still there. Do all the diesel trucks come with a block heater? I have done alot of work on my truck and have never noticed the cord that was usually visible on old cars when I lived in WI. Don't kick me too hard in the head.
Hutch
Hutch
11-01-2011, 07:04 PM
#13
Registered User
I also agree with plugging in the beast whenever and wherever possible. Believe me, I HATED having to crank the old girl awake on some of our brutal Alberta winter days. Nonetheless, she never let me down.
hutch98, sometimes the wiring harness for the plug in is kinda hidden behind the battery on the pasngr side. Look on the block for the heater cord and follow it from there up to the front of your truck. No guarantee that you actually have one though. If not you can always get one installed for ya - $$$$$ of course!
Cheers!
Mike
hutch98, sometimes the wiring harness for the plug in is kinda hidden behind the battery on the pasngr side. Look on the block for the heater cord and follow it from there up to the front of your truck. No guarantee that you actually have one though. If not you can always get one installed for ya - $$$$$ of course!
Cheers!
Mike
11-01-2011, 07:24 PM
#14
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Some of new guys might not know that you can cycle the grid heaters a couple times to help when it is really cold.
When the wait to start light goes out just turn the key off then back on. this will start another cycle of the grid heaters. This gets the manifold temps up higher.
When it is below 0 I cycle the heaters twice if the truck has been sitting 10 hours.
If it is -20 or more I cycle then 3 times. Granted it takes away from the batteries but the motor will start easier and stay running.
-20 and below it sounds like this on startup......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNXa-4W-2Yk
When the wait to start light goes out just turn the key off then back on. this will start another cycle of the grid heaters. This gets the manifold temps up higher.
When it is below 0 I cycle the heaters twice if the truck has been sitting 10 hours.
If it is -20 or more I cycle then 3 times. Granted it takes away from the batteries but the motor will start easier and stay running.
-20 and below it sounds like this on startup......
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNXa-4W-2Yk
11-02-2011, 03:58 PM
#15
Registered User
hutch98
THe block heater is threaded into the block just above the oiol filter bracket and a little behind it IIRC.
It will look like an electrical connector with a threaded end, male, about 1" in diameter and have three or four posts in it. That's the block heater. You may just need a cord, available from any auto parts, preferrably NAPA.
THe block heater is threaded into the block just above the oiol filter bracket and a little behind it IIRC.
It will look like an electrical connector with a threaded end, male, about 1" in diameter and have three or four posts in it. That's the block heater. You may just need a cord, available from any auto parts, preferrably NAPA.
