Ck your fuel filters!!
#1
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Check your fuel filters!!
I have recently seen many articles about the new ULSD having a cleaning effect on the tanks,lines, etc. Recently I confirmed this with a few of our OTR trucks, needing fuel filters after roughly 8-10k. I bought one for my truck just because, and was amazed when I pulled my old one out, to find the guts sucked right out of the filter. The steel webbing holding the fabric was sucking right into the center of the filter. This was also a name brand OTR filter(Baldwin) Filter maybe had 5,000 miles on it. I have never had problems with any Baldwin filters on any of our trucks, but I am wondering if this new fuel was doing its duty.
Each article I read, stated that its not an on going thing, but said that a filter or 2 may be needed after the initial switch.
Each article I read, stated that its not an on going thing, but said that a filter or 2 may be needed after the initial switch.
#3
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Using ATF as fuel additive?
I have been told by several people that adding ATF {automatic transmission fluid} to your fuel filter after changing filters that the engine will prime quicker and works as a good treatment. Also you can add a quart to the fuel tank occasionally to help lube it. Has anyone else heard about this or tried it? Thanks Ray
#4
Doesn't sound like a very good idea to me. ATF (generally speaking) is just a 20W (or so) oil with a different blend of additives designed for the tranny. The fuel filter (stock) holds about a pint or less, so it would be diluted to an insignificant amount in the fuel tank within a minute of starting the engine, depending on how much is in there or right after the next fillup.
You want a fuel lubricity additive in the correct amount designed specifically to keep the moving parts and seals in the pumps and injectors clean and lubricated at all times. ATF is not that additive. Fuel Power, Stanadyne, Power Service and the like are.
You want a fuel lubricity additive in the correct amount designed specifically to keep the moving parts and seals in the pumps and injectors clean and lubricated at all times. ATF is not that additive. Fuel Power, Stanadyne, Power Service and the like are.
#5
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That is a true statement. I have noticed a declining trend on mine the last couple months. About two pounds less at idle but full load doesn't seem to be effected quite so much . I plan on replacing the filter this weekend as long as the XYL doesn't schedule me for to much DiD I say that? Well it is the Christmas season.
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#8
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That is a true statement. I have noticed a declining trend on mine the last couple months. About two pounds less at idle but full load doesn't seem to be effected quite so much . I plan on replacing the filter this weekend as long as the XYL doesn't schedule me for to much DiD I say that? Well it is the Christmas season.
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[QUOTE=csramsey640;1260339]I have recently seen many articles about the new ULSD having a cleaning effect on the tanks,lines, etc. [QUOTE]
I knew BIO was acting like a solvent in the tanks and lines but not ULSD. That might explain why I'm going through filters now. I just changed one 4 weeks ago and I think I need to do it again already! I know it's a simple job but....
EDIT: Don't know why the quote is working weird.
I knew BIO was acting like a solvent in the tanks and lines but not ULSD. That might explain why I'm going through filters now. I just changed one 4 weeks ago and I think I need to do it again already! I know it's a simple job but....
EDIT: Don't know why the quote is working weird.
#10
My fuel pressure holds consistent until about 20 degrees where I start to notice a drop before the run time and fuel heater gets it back to normal. It will typically run around one psi lower after cold starts in less than twenty degrees for the first 15 minutes or so.
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ATF in fuel
Reelay- you are apparently new here, and as such, I will inform you to the best of my knowlege and ability. The urban legend/ myth of ATF being a good fuel additive is older than Ford owning Cummins (which came about shortly after DODGE started installing the engine Ford passed on several years earlier). With as many threads as have been posted here and on other CUmmins websites I still am amazed at the number of people who ask about this. NO IT IS NOT A GOOD IDEA TO RUN ATF THROUGH THE TANK. Reason being, most ATFs have friction additives of one sort or another for the TRANSMISSION, which is VERY bad for a fuel system operating at 5000-10000psi. Requires very tight tolerances to make that kind of pressure. You'd be much better off in the long run to run a slightly higher cost fuel additive designed to run in the tank. I have had "professional" mechanics tell me to run ATF in the tank. They get real irritated and sometimes MAD when I start laughing.
I also know full well there are people here who have run ATF in every tank for 500K mi with nary a problem that they can see. Have you disassembled the pump and looked at the internals? Unless you have, I dont see how you can accurately say you have had no problems.
Daniel
I also know full well there are people here who have run ATF in every tank for 500K mi with nary a problem that they can see. Have you disassembled the pump and looked at the internals? Unless you have, I dont see how you can accurately say you have had no problems.
Daniel
#12
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Thanks for the replys on the ATF issue. I personally have not used any yet been using Power Service products. Just a couple of farmers had told me that they did this on their tractors and other diesel powered equipment. Guess I'll stick to the good stuff. Thanks Ray
#13
Adminstrator-ess
All the info you will find in the 2nd gen on this transfers over to our trucks very well.
The condensed version: Just get a tapped banjo from Geno's or GDP and install the gauge of your choice. Use a needle valve closed almost all the way (or a snubber) to control the pulsations. For a stock lift pump at 15 psi gauge is good. For a piston pump or electric setup like mine, you want a 30 - 35 psi gauge.
My fuel pressure has stayed steady even after a month on ULSD.
The condensed version: Just get a tapped banjo from Geno's or GDP and install the gauge of your choice. Use a needle valve closed almost all the way (or a snubber) to control the pulsations. For a stock lift pump at 15 psi gauge is good. For a piston pump or electric setup like mine, you want a 30 - 35 psi gauge.
My fuel pressure has stayed steady even after a month on ULSD.
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