blazinchuck

ok, my buddy has a 91 w250-1st gen. I spanked him twice on drag racing from a dead stop and once from slow roll in 1st . I loved every minute, but now...I watch him basically make a few mods in maybe 1 hour. We went at it again, only to have him rape me like I was standing still . I know there has to be some simple mods that can be done to my '94 duallie CTD/5-speed. I know I need to do the KDP thing, get some gauges. Right now I have a cold air kit from a buddy that went BAHF and straight-piped 3". This same guy with the 91 has offered a complete 4" w/down pipe(it's from a '97)...I will be installing here soon(figured it cant hurt). Can I turn up the fuel??Timing, or anything? I building my trail rig('74 EB) so dont have many funds...looking for tricks simillar to his "91 w250. Any help would be great. New to CTD, so dont know all the lingo yet.Thanks,Chuck

displacedtexan

To get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge as well.

A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers (do a search for "free GSK")

A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.

More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.

To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

CarlJensen

If you don't want to spend any money just move your fuel plate full forward, turn the AFC star wheel full forward. This will give some more fueling. Timing makes a difference also. It can be set between 15 and 16 degrees with no strain on the engine to speak of. If the timing has never been done yours has probably slipped some anyway. This will cost a few bucks if you don't have the tools yourself. You have the cold air intake now so that's good. The 4" may give you a bit of a boost but EGT's control is the main advantage with this add on. It will sound a lot better. Displacedtexan gave you a good write up there. When ready for it just modify your old plate to a 10 or 100 and reinstall but get a good set of gauges before you start down the slippery path this starts!

blazinchuck

I know this is stupid, but any pics of where these items are on the motor? I know what the injection pump is, L-pump is, but not AFC,star wheel,fuel plate. thanks again,Chuck

blazinchuck

ok, just for S & giggles, I removed the silencer ring on the turbo, and even blocked off the waste gate. That was simple enough.now I'm ready for the star wheel.Chuck

blazinchuck

right now, I'm trying to get the 4 screws out of the AFC...what a *****! Am I taking the right ones out? I know this is the AFC by looking at the Hanes book, but is the star wheel under this 4 screw cap or is it under the 2 screw cap on top of the AFC?Hoping someone can answer this soon,Chuck

displacedtexan

The starwheel is under the plug that takes a 3/8 hex (on the very top)

blazinchuck

ok so far, all that is getting done today was (plugged waste gate,removed silencer ring,adjusted star wheel-max) I believe I was trying(succeded)into removing the AFC cap, but I guess I cant adjust the fuel pin(not sure). The **** break away scew on that cap was a bear!!!, But now I see the other 4 screws that would remove the whole AFC housing----that must be where the fuel plate would be. I didn't do this as time was running out. I wish there were more pics reffering to the mods...if so I would have wasted any time removing those 4 screws to the stupid cap. However If I had just read carfully what displacedtexan wrote...oh well.

any info on fuel pins mods on this 2nd gen-I search, but didn't find anything. Also any pics or info on modifying the stock fuel plate. I heard about grinding it, but what exactly has to be done? Thanks guys, I now have a little smoke when I pop the throttle-I can really hear that turbo now!!Chuck

displacedtexan

There are no fuel pins on the seccons gen trucks, the plate serves the same purpose. This is Rick's plate, but mine is ground the same, I just lost my pics...

TexasHardcore

I just made a tech post about grinding your own #100 fuel plate and how to get to it.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=tech+plate

Good luck with the bombing!

CarlJensen

Here is a link for you to some pretty good info ,,,

http://dodgeram.org/

blazinchuck

Which is the best fuel plate? I've seen some #5,#10,#100, and of coarse modify your own. I would prefer to keep my stocker and purchase a better one on the market. That way I can go back to stock-if needed. I found a #5-that says it will give about 265hp and 625 tq. Any thoughts? Remember its a '94 manual.Thanks,Chuck

clutch1

the 10 is the most common plate. but the 100 is the next step which is the one in the pic. you will need to do the gsk to get the full effect of the 100 plate though. either plate will rip your clutch out.

TRoss

I don't mean to be a nag, but that sounds like an awful lot of pump tweaking and you he never said anything about having installed gauges. As I said, not wanting to be a nag, but there is a reason people rant and rave about them, and its not just because its so much fun to drop a couple hundred bucks to have a cool looking A-pillar

my $0.02

displacedtexan

Gauges are the first step... Thanks for mentioning it again.