phal

Or I should title it, Trying to Change $%^&#@$ Sending Unit!

Had the tank sitting on a floor jack and cannot get the #$^&^%$ two tab disconnects off the @#$^&*# tank!

You are supposed to squeeze the tabs together but one is on the top and the other is on the bottom and my finger will not
fit under the bottom tab.

I tried it laying on my back my stomach my arms around the tank, under the exhaust, cannot get it done.....

GAAA!

I had the tank all the way off the truck and had to put it back on again because the tabs wont disconnect!

GAAA!

Anyone have a good idea on how to get these things loose without breaking them off?

thanks......gary

littlebuddie

Hello phal,
I had the same problem and it nearly drove me nuts. Read this thread to get yourself started and I will post photos of those ornery disconnects so you have a better idea of what you can't see very well at this point.

I am having trouble with PhotoBucket but here is one photo of the top of the sending unit connectors. Use little zip ties on the tabs (ears) to hold them retracted while you pull the line apart. The electrical connector has a red tab that you have to slide over before you take it apart.

phal

Hey Littlebuddy,

I had thought about screwdrivers and pliers but I did not think of zip ties, I will try that today.

It would have been nice had the factory given enough slack in the lines to drop the tank to the pavement so you could access them.

Did you say you had a link to a thread somewhere?

Thanks for the idea!...gary

patdaly

Gary, I think I see the problem.

For this particular job, your choice of euphemisms is somewhat weak. You need to get a stronger vocabulary, something that would bring a tear to a Marines eye.

And after all that, if it still doesn't work, or the zip ties fail, do like I do, and cut the thing off. Rubber hose and hose clamps are your friend.

You still haven't got the wire loose yet, but that is for another post.

infidel

Perhaps that's why the factory service manual says to tilt or remove the bed to access the tank?
In fact under warranty the dealer wouldn't work on my tank when I had a camper on the back.
Said they never drop the tank.
I've done it both ways, tilting the bed is far easier.
No problem at all removing the lines and wiring when it's wide open and visible.

BBWD

If I recall correctly, there are 6 bolts that hold the bed on the frame. I simply took the 4 front ones off, loosened the back 2 fairly loose and tilted it up like a dump bed and supported it with a couple of 2 X 4's while working on it- real simple and lots of room. Don't forget to remove the ground strap to the cab and the bolts from the filler hose.

John (DH)

littlebuddie

Oye, sorry phal, I forgot to add the link:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....html?t=233185
Slide the red tab on the electrical connector as pictured. Zippy tie yay yippie yippie yay the tabbed fuel line connectors and they will come off quite easily. Good Luck!

justme-

Those little retaining clips are cheap as heck from the dealer- rubber hose and hose clamps are unnecessary.
The first time you do this the clips are a PITA- after you've done it once it gets easier to manage them. Never lifted a bed, dropped the tank several times- sit on the ground legs under the tank body in the quarter panel and you can reach over the frame under the body and reasonably see what you're doing.

1-2-3

Bed tilt, only way to go. Also, while you in there (may be too late) do the fuel tank vent mod so it'll hold 5 or 8 more gallons. Something like that.

400Magnum

I have to replace the fuel lines on my truck, and had to get to the top of the tank, but I had just filled the tank so dropping it was not an option, I went with the tilt bed option, and it went a lot easier than I expected it too. Got the bed propped up with some 2X4's until I can get the job finished.

Not meaning to hijack the thread, but what is the fuel tank vent mod? I searched for a thread, but for some reason I keep getting an error. Will this mod work for the 12V trucks too?

infidel

It's for 3rd gens only.

400Magnum

Rats... I was hoping to find a cheap way to add a few extra gallons... Oh well..

phal

I just looked at this thread since my last post and at this point the tank is on the ground and completely unhooked.

But I am becoming a believer in the "jack the bed up" P.O.V.

I am working on the truck in the driveway in 27 degree chicago weather. I probably had an hour and a half just getting the fuel lines off. I tried plastic zip ties but they kept slipping off, so Iended up using heavy duty wire twist ties from a Genos order to close up the quick (har har) 2 pc. disconnects, . When I finally got the tank loose, I noticed I was on an incline with two different heights of concrete and now the tank doesn't want to come out from beneath the truck.

It is just the way this repair is going.

I decided to come in and warm up my hands then I can get on with the job.

Since I started working on the truck this year, I have put on a FASS DDRP, a rebuilt VP44 from Midwest, a EV2 Fuel gage and steering column gage mount. Changed all of the filters and put in new oil.

I have a box from genos with both radiator hoses a drive belt and a gates tensioner sitting next to me on the floor.

I am going to flush it and then have 4 gallons of Zerex G05 to go in.

After that It is new tires (suggestions?) and a new exhaust.

I am also looking at an Argentine Colt 45 automatic to put under the front seat. (the wife may put the kabosh on that one)

I will then put it back on the road.

In the meantime I am driving my wonderful 89 lebaron turbo convertible HA!

I need my truck back!

...gm

phal

Oh, I was cussing.

I may have set myself a new standard to live by when things **** me off.

gm

phal

I am beginning to think that I should look at some kind of alternative hose connection to the fuel tank.

The float is in, the tank is on and now I am trying to reconnect those disconnects.

Finally had to come in for a hand warm up.

I could do a fuel pump relocation. That would get rid of them right?

...wow, this really sucks....gm