eichhoma

Changed IP last night...

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and I have to say, that was not all that bad. It took me exactly 2 hours to get it out from start to finish... Putting it back in was a little longer but it all went well. I highly recomend that special little $50.00 gear puller that blue chip sells... worked great and took less than 2 minutes to put it on and pop the shaft loose. Definitley worht the money.

I noticed that one helpful tip to consider that I never found published anywhere is to maybe pre tighten the #4 injector nozzle line BEFORE you put the grid heater and intake horn back on. I know that kinda defeats the purpose of bleeding the lines but once that is on there is no good way to get to the nozzle bolt... I ground up a 3/4 open end wrench to get in there but that killed a good 45 mins between grinding and checking and grinding and checking... but it all worked out...

almost lost the key off the shaft putting the IP back in place. It fell out and laid right on the inside edge of the timing cover!! was maybe a 1/4" from falling down in the timing cover... that would have made for a bad eveing... was able to grab it with a magnet. I lucked out...

Drove it last night... no dead pedal, and it instantly felt like a new truck (new for 125k miles on it) ran much better, more power... I am very happy.

Also... can someone tell me what that line is that comes out fo the FRONT of where the IP shaft is?? It looks like a breather that you have to grab with a big strap wrench (that is what I did) and tyhe line goes down to a another container and mine leaks like crazy and is making a huge mess. Can someone tell me what that is so I know how to look it up to buy one? I am guessing I need to replace mine.

Thanks to everyone who helped me diagnose this and for all the troubleshooting you guys helped me with!

bnold

THat's you're puke bottle... Should be emptying at every oil change or reroute it away from the radiator... Ur radiator is probably packed with all kinds of crud... Clean it out..

eichhoma

Should I be emptying it myself or should it empty? Not clear on what you mean.
Yeah, I am definitley way over due for a radiator flush so I guess I will do that. Thanks!

torquefan

That's the engine's breather tube. It's common and normal for them to make a big mess. At the least, you should empty and clean the bottle at every oil change. Many will ditch the bottle, and add an extension to the hose so it terminates well below the fan shroud area. If neglected, it will cause the rad fins to plug up with oily dirt.

Snoking

Get rid of the bottle and extend the hose down to the below the engine. In a cold climate you do not want to extend it aft like some do. If the line freezes up, you will blow the seals in the engine. SNOKING

NoSeeUm

I did that for a while, eventually got tired of the mess that made.

From Jegs it got one of these breather bottles. I made a Z bracket and mounted it just in from of the right front fender. It is nice and neat and no more mess.

I am glad the pump change out went so well for you.

Jim

JSPulliam21

That looks slick, NoSeeUm. Do you have any pics of how yours is set up?

CORed

So just how much of a mechanic are you? I'm trying to determine if this is ever a job for me. What other jobs do you do mechanically on vehicles? Just trying to get a level set for your difficulty opinion.

Thanks much!
CORed
Colorado Springs, CO

Snoking

Have you ever pulled a carb and cleaned it, or a distribrator on a gasser? Removed a starter.

I did my VP44 last week and it took me 4.5 hours and two trips to the auto parts store. Buy Blue Chips puller. I made my own puller as my steering wheel puller would not free it.

I left the three inside injector lines on the engine and pushed them against the block.

Beat my hands up a bit.

Read the instructions carefully. Including cleaning the pump shaft and gear bore before reinstalling.

SNOKING

NoSeeUm

Yeah, it works pretty good. I made a mistake in my first post. I meant that I mounted it right in front of the left front fender well. Not the right fender well.

The install was very easy.

I made a z-shaped bracket out of 1 inch by 3/16 inch flat stock. The top of the bracket I slotted vertically and slid under the bolt that holds the bumper side support bracket. To ease the installation of the bottle, which comes with threaded mounting holes, I slotted the bottom part of the z-bracket horizontally in two places that aligned with the bottle mounting holes. That way I bolted the z-bracket to the truck first. Then slid the bottle in the horizontal slots with the bolts already installed and then tightened down the bolts. Otherwise it was impossible to get the bolts started due to the tight clearence.

For the hose, I just cut the existing 3/4 hose off at the first vertical down section and inserted an in-line inside PVC coupler. I installed a new length of 3/4 hose from the coupler to the bottle. To make it fit perfectly I did needed to buy a -12 AN 90 degree elbow. The bottle came with a -12 AN male conection, so the elbow needed to be female on one end. I connected the hose directly onto the other (threaded type) end of the elbow and held it in place with a hose clamp. The -12 AN elbow was not cheap for me, the $30 for it made me wink. So I have about $90 in the whole set-up.

So far so good and it almost looks how the OEM set-up should have looked. I will see if I can get you some pictures for you.

Jim

NoSeeUm

Top View

Front View
You can see the Z Bracket on the left with the two bolts and slots they go into.

Upper Mount View from Side
Here the vertical slot in the Z bracket just slips under the bumper side support arm.

Upper Mount View from Bottom
Just a another view of the Z bracket from the bottom.

Bottom View
A view of the 90 degree elbow and the filter on top.

Jim

JSPulliam21

That is really nice, Jim. Is tere anything you would have done differently?

NoSeeUm

Maybe spent more time trying to find a cheaper elbow. Other than that, no not really. I like things simple.

Jim