m3rd

I tried back in Dec, and just this past weekend to pop off the bearing per Mr. Gadget's power steering method with no luck. I used plenty of PB Blaster both times. I turned the steering wheel until it couldn't turn anymore. How's does the factory manual says to do it? Can you used a puller and push against the axle? Are the dealer mechanics using the power steering method?

Thanks.

OOPS

Guess I was lucky, couple of hits at 9 and 3 o'clock on the flange with a 3 pound sledge and mine fell off, must be a California thing.

ptm600

Did you push from alternating sides? I had to push from 2 or three different points before I could get them to break loose. Once they popped the first time, I still had to work back and forth a couple more times until they came completely out. Hope this helps.

initiald843

i used a 3 jaw puller and a hammer....came right off.

Mr Jerry

I used an air chisel on the heads of the bolts, only one thread at a time though .

IPDiesel

i spent about an hour working on mine-using the power steering technique. I thought i was going to have to reassemble them & take it some where-but as a last ditch effort, i added a little heat to the axle housing ( not too much as you don't want to get the bearing hot ) and continued pushing & tapping with a flat faced mallet....finally broke free.

I saw a post saying that you can use a puller & press on the axle-But i don't think it is the best idea. http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/d...wer/index.html


The axle will end up pushing into the differential if the bearing is too seized. _ you can end up pulling your bearing apart too I think.

Look at this link: someone pulled their bearing apart using a hub puller:
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=142821

m3rd

Thanks for the replies guys. I sprayed PB Blaster for two days and tried the PS method on both sides and both top and bottom bolts. Used an air chisel on the bolt heads. Used a porto-power with expansion jaws and put that between the back of the hub and the axle housing. Nothing. I tried using MAPP gas torch and heated up the the bearing hsg/axle housing interface and then tried the PS method. Nothing. I ordered an oxy-acetylene set up to get more heat and will try that next. If that doesn't work I'll cut out the bearing unit. I have about 10 hrs in this with no progress.

SpeedyWS6

Put a little heat on it, then use the power steering method to put a bind on it and hit the knuckle as hard as you can with a BFH. The jolt from the hammer could be enough to break it loose.

Or figure out a way to put the port a power on the back of the retaining bolts.

estaca

m 3rd this is what we did , , with
1/2 inch plate steel , we drilled two holes at either side of the hub so the axle is in the middle with the big center nut off , we put tightened
bothe sides , then used a two jaw
puller on the hub also , with a
hammer hit hard rotate ,hammer and soon it will brake lose I just did
both sides yes it's challenge but
you can do it !

IPDiesel

M3rd, When you say you going to hit it with an oxy-acetylene torch for more heat-how much hotter do you plan on going?

That kind of heat is going to damage the housing-not just the bearing. Be careful.


Do you have the other front tire off of the ground too? Might give you a little extra push on the power steering with the whole front end in the air.

What combination of sockets/ extensions are you using to push on those bolts?-I used 2 deep 18mm sockets on the front 2 bolts & a 18mm shallow with a 6" & 8" extension on the rear bolts. The only reason I am saying this is that I think the power steering geometry is most powerful when the wheel is almost straight/in line with the truck.