Jambbii

I am replacing my evaporator core pretty soon. Is there anything else I should replace while I am working on my a/c?


Thanks,

Josh

scuzman00

While you have the system apart, go ahead and pick up a new reciever/accumulator. If the system has been open to atmosphere for any length of time, the dessicant inside it is probably shot. It is the aluminum cylindrical looking thing on the passenger side with a pressure switch screwed into it. It should run about $80.00-100.00 at an A/C or auto parts store.

Happy refrigerating!!

Gary

Shovelhead

Find a location that stocks the heater core while you're in that far.
Just in case.

Jambbii

Thanks for the info. havnt found a place that I am going to purchase all this stuff from still shopping around. I am also having a hard time getting the lines off. I have tried 2 different tools and the lines dont want to seperate. Any suggestions?

I PASS GAS

If I were you I would replace the heater core regardless, mine looked really funky even though it wasn't leaking.

The tool I used to uncouple the lines were the $10 plastic tool set you can get anywhere. You kind of have to be rough with it, but it will come undone.

The foam seal around my evaporator core was ripped to shreads by the time I got it out, and the new one came with no replacement. If I were you I'd pick up some weather stripping from a hardware store and make your own.

Oil your blower motor while you have it out. Mine started squeeling like a pig as soon as I put it back in. Took it out and oiled it and it was good to go.

There is an orfice tube on our trucks, however, it's crimped in the liquid line at the factory. I replaced my liquid line so I'd have a clean orfice. It was $72 from the dealer (supprisingly the cheapest I could find).

While you have the system apart, put about 1/4 oz of dye in the system if it isn't in there already, it will help you track down leaks that you might have later on.

If you replace the dryer, you will have to transfer the pressure switch. Don't gorilla wrench it, it's plastic and will crack (don't ask me how I know).

DO NOT forget to add oil to the system. The general rule is 2oz of oil for every major component you replace. The evaporator and dryer are both major components. Also put oil on the o-ring of every fitting you put back together.

If you have any questions PM me, I did the job last year.

Good luck!

Jambbii

What is the orfice tube and luquid line? Should I replace those also?

Thanks for the good info!

I PASS GAS

The orifice tube doubles as an inline filter too pick up wear particles from the compressor as well as being a metering device that restricts the flow of refrigerant to the evaporator. This is what creates the high side/low side pressures. The compressor is trying to suck agains the back side of it (hence the low side) and pumps agains the front side of it (high pressure side).

The liquid line is the line the metal line that runs along the passenger fender. Midway down the line you will find a sections that is wrapped with insulation (I believe it is aluminum tape actually). Under that there is a crimp in the line. That is where it is at. You can tell because it is hot on one side and cold on the other. Also, when you shut the truck off and you hear the pressure equalizing, that is the point where it will equalize.

It is a posiblity that you could back flush that line to clean the orifice, but I just went ahead and changed it. On most automobies you can remove the orifice, it's very small and cheap, but Dodge had their own way of going about doing it.

Here is a link to an image of an orifice tube so you have an idea what it would look like if you could see it. Click here for the image.

J BODY

You sure the evap is leaking?

Jambbii

THanks IPG!

J BODY, I broke the evap line last year installing my twins in the middle of the monsoon season

dodgeguy71

the oil you should use on your o-rings should be R12 oil. If you use the PAG(r143a) oil it attracts moisture and will corrode/rust whatever to the fittings. I use the 134a oil in the system and r12 oil for o-rings on fittings and such. Good tip about dye, it helps a lot for future leaks. As far as r134a goes I would stay away from the ones with leak sealers, high mileage and all that "snake oil". Leak sealers can plug up internal parts causing problems....as per General Motors, I stick with the SUVA, just plain r134a to juice up my fleet at the house.