bye bye lock collar
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Northern KS
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bye bye lock collar
Finally decided it was time for the lock collar to go since I am pulling more weight behind the truck now.
I marked it but some things got moved around on me. I think it is at 1 turn in past where I could get it before though. My max boost went from 21 to 26 and my idle is up to around 925 warm. While i was there I backed the smoke screw out one turn.
Seat of the pants difference was noticeable. I haven't been on pavement yet but on gravel it just spins the passengers tire into 4th gear
Will be hooked up to the trailer in the morning.... will see how it goes.
quick question: If I would get the urge to go a 1/2 turn or a full additional how far can I go before I most likely will need a pull cable?
I marked it but some things got moved around on me. I think it is at 1 turn in past where I could get it before though. My max boost went from 21 to 26 and my idle is up to around 925 warm. While i was there I backed the smoke screw out one turn.
Seat of the pants difference was noticeable. I haven't been on pavement yet but on gravel it just spins the passengers tire into 4th gear
Will be hooked up to the trailer in the morning.... will see how it goes.
quick question: If I would get the urge to go a 1/2 turn or a full additional how far can I go before I most likely will need a pull cable?
#2
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Location: Salina, Kansas
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I'm maxxed out on the full power screw and I don't need a pull cable. Key still works for me. Been that way for awhile too. It all just depends on the truck. Try it and see what happens
#3
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Thumbs up. Weighed the truck with load at 13,200lbs. Towing in the northern flint hills of KS was no problem now. There are a few super steep long hills where I still lost 5-10 mph in 5th but I was happy. Pulled with more power as well as having lower EGTs. The lower EGTs must be due to backing out the smoke screw maybe? I always used to have the temps climb fast with part throttle between 1300-1800 rpm.
If anybody has ever driven Highway 99 or Hartwich RD around the Westmoreland area in KS you know how much of a bear those hills are.
#4
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The smoke screw is evil and worthless once you've gone past the lock collar on the full fuel screw. Back it out flush with the inside of the AFC cover and be done with it. The lower egt's while pulling are more than likely due to getting the turbo spooled with the added fuel. While the 18.5 is a good all around housing, it's a wee bit big for stock ic injectors. To a point, the more fuel you add, the cooler (relatively speaking) things will become because you actually get the turbo pushing some air. Once you hit 30 or so psi with your setup (maybe another 1/2 turn) that whole scenario will be a memory and your factory compressor will just start heating things up. If you're only grossing 13k and you generally keep it under 70 you might want to try a 12cm w/g housing. It makes the getrag a towing beast
#5
I was just trying to turn up the full power screw on my truck but i dont know how to get it off. I have turned everything else up (star wheel 2 turns and ~150* on the pin) and know i wanted to turn up the full power screw for when i get the stage IV compressor in.
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#9
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After reading this post I finally rid my full fuel screw of that stupid lock collar, and turned it in about a turn or more. After I got the idle down to where it sounded like it used to I checked the throttle linkage and it wasn't traveling as far as it should (it used to hit the high speed stop) I ended up bending the top part of the throttle pedal a tad to make things work and I turned the high speed stop back a turn or so. Then I took it for a test drive. WOW!! Holy Soot Batman!! I have a brand new truck! I probably gained 4+ psi on the boost and EGT's are still managable. Definately worth the 45mins it took to do the first step in the Bombing process. What a terrible sickness..........
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