rjl05b

Ok here's the deal, I'm buying my first diesel pickup and I am looking very hard at a 2001 2500 quad cab, short bed sport with flatbed and it has 167,000 miles on it. I have quite a bit of gasoline enginge knowledge having rebuilt and restored several cars and pickups but just have not had the experience with a diesel. So here's my question, what are some of the finer intricacies when looking at buying one to be able to tell key points about the pickup. Basically, when i go back to look at it and drive it again what are some dead give-aways for a good or bad vehicle?

rjl05b

Oh yeah, it's an automatic with 4 wheel drive

nickg

does it have the 4wheel disc? if so that would a huge improvement over drums

Turn the key on off 3 times and watch the odo it will list codes there if you see a 0216 your going to need a VP (read a 1000+ repair if you do it yourself) most all 01-02 you can read the codes this way, if not take it some where and have them read, it could save you alot of money in the end

have someone rock the steering wheel while you look at the steering linkage, the trackbar is crap and unless the seller changed it last week it will likely be loose (at the frame end near steering box).

Lift pumps are prone to failure especially stock replacements (failure of the LP causes failure of the IP) look to see if some one relocated a lift pump back near the frame, that would be a plus if they did. hopefully the dealer did not do the upgrade of installing the LP in the tank.

Check to see if it has gauges (fuel and pyro) would be a bonus! as these trucks need a fuel pressure gauge! and if you buy it it should be your very first mod.

look for any oil leaks near the vacuum pump powersteering pump if its an oil leak you will need to remove the assy to replace the seal, parts are cheap but its a pain to do.

you can usually tell if the truck had a chip on it (edge anyway) there will be velcro strips on the underhood fuse box near the drv battery.

98whitelightnin

Try to pull codes, im unsure if an 01 will do it but turn the key to the on position without starting then off, on, off and on again and see if any codes come up in your trip. These 2nd gen 24v trucks are known to have a bad lift pump and when It quits pushing at least 5psi of fuel to the injector pump it eventually burns the injector pump up. The cheapest IP I have ever seen was $1000 plus the LP that failed causing the IP to burn up in the first place. A stock replacement IP is around $200 but are junk, look into getting an Airdog or a Fass fuel pump and these are in the $5-600 range but come with a lifetime warranty. The hole front end, ball joints, tie rods, track bar, upper and lower control arm bushings will probably be shot unless they were previosly done. Finally look to see if its a 53 block or not
http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm
Im sure others will chime on some little things I forgot but that is all I can think of right now. Good luck

welder 59

A 01 will show codes in the odometer. You guys covered about everything.

GotStacks

After reading some of these things i am concerned too... Since i am going to NY (from Cleveland Ohio) to pick up a 99 Sport Cummins... I would hate to have any of these problems! Someone mentioned in my thread that my truck may have an aftermarket pump... How would i know for certain?
Sorry, not trying to hijack thread, just dont want to be up the creek with no paddle!

TIMMY22

If you want to work on it yourself, get a 94-98.5 12v truck.

wyododge

Aftermarket pumps like FASS are generally installed on or around the frame between the cab and the rear tire (right next to the fuel tank). Just look underneath the truck, you will generally see a pump mounted and an inline fuel filter. It will be VERY obvious if there has been one installed. If the fuel pump is still located in the engine compartment or possibly in the tank, chances are that it is an OEM replacement and is very suspect. Here is a pic with the bed off. You can see my FASS pump hanging from the bailing twine in the upper left hand corner.

Hope this helps.

As for the original question, I think nickg and Mr. Lighting nailed it.

rjl05b

First of all, thanks for all of the tips they have been quite helpful and are greatly appreciated. Ok, went back and drove it and checked it out again today. Looked at a lot of yall's sugestions and here's what I found.

Four wheel discs-Yes
Codes-
PCU P 1595
P 0122
P 0720

ECU P 1693

-Looked up what I could, sounds mainly electrical but haven't had enough time to look up thoroughly.

Has a new IP, in stock location

Steering is questionable

I believe there is a power steering leak or at least in that area

Transmission fluid on bottom of tranny pan

Drivers side elec window does not function and passenger is ok if controlloing from that side which also leads me to believe possibly more electrical problems

No acc gauges

Not a "53" block

To my knowledge hasn't been chipped or modded too much

Oil and fluid dealer stickers indicate routine maintenance

For the most part other than the aforementioned it seems rather sound. I would appreciate some input on what yall think about these problems.

Busboy

0122 is APPS voltage too low. APPS is accelerator pedal position sensor, it send a signal to the injector pump to tell it howw much fuel you want. Can be quite expensive to replace, causes poor driveability and dead pedal. A member on here sells a better solution than the factory one for a fraction of the price. Search Timbo APPS.
0720 is speed sensor, These go quite often and reasonable to replace, located on the rear diff.
1595 is speed control solenoid circuit. quote from the book... an open or shorted condition detected in either of the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits. I don't know about this one but could be related to the 0720. look for damaged wires going to the 0720 sensor at the sensor or very close on the axle. maybe someone else has input on this one.
1693 this one's easy, a companion code has been set in both the ecm and pcm.

Call me old fashioned but I like the rear drum brakes especially on a dually, as you will have to fix the park brake sooner or later.

RowJ

Nothing serious, IMO. Sounds like a good one.
Other concerns are steering box (not enough support) and the track bar...as mentioned. How's steering (straight tracking) at hwy speeds
Plan on a Steering Stabilizer to support and firm up steering and an after market trackbar.
Check fuel pressure, if you get it, to confirm injector pump is OK. If IP done by Dodge, they probably relocated lift pump to inside tank. Works well but causes problems if adding much HP.
Also, get gauges.

Tranny maintenance is critical on Automatics. Any records of fluid/filter changes? if possible, warm it up and test at WOT for converter slippage.
Any smell or discoloration on dipstick fluid?

Power steering leaks are usually the seal between PS pump and Vacum pump. Not expensive but not a fun job. http://fixinrams.com/id21.html

Good Luck!

GotStacks

Thanks for the info... After reading this i asked the fellow im buying the truck from. He said he did replace it with a Holley unit and ran 1/2" lines to and from everything! He said he replaced the old one when PSI dropped just below 10.

rjl05b

"Other concerns are steering box (not enough support) and the track bar...as mentioned. How's steering (straight tracking) at hwy speeds
Plan on a Steering Stabilizer to support and firm up steering and an after market trackbar"

Now that you mention it I forgot to say that there was some play in the steering wheel and a tendancy for it to have to be pulled slighlty to the left to keep her headed straight. I was in a hurry earlier and ommitted that. Yall have been quite a bit of help, thanks.

Junk Man

Decide if the truck itself is solid meaning has not been abused. Does it have gauges & some kind of chip? If not, it's probably stock & you'll need to deal with fuel problems. Search FASS, Air Dog & gauges. Plan on $1,000 + install. Next, does it have a brace under the steering box? If not, the front steering needs to be dealt with. Add another $1000 + install. Search death wobble, Thuren track bar, DSS Steering Brace. Try here for a steering box if yours is leaking or can't be adjusted: https://www.carsteering.com/

With fuel & steering fixed, you have a solid truck but will need to deal with the dash crack & heater core sometime. Buy a lifetime alignment from Firestone for another $140. Now you can put it on a front end machine whenever you change something. Does it need tires or anything else that is obvious? Price those. Stock is size 265/75/16. Discount tire matches internet prices. Next is go fast things & strengthening required as a result.

I have a friend who claims that is Ford makes a better truck & swapps cummins into them. The install kit is $5000 + labor + engine + upgrades. Then, you'll REALLY have a truck built like it should be.

RowJ

Way to scare him off this truck!
Trying to hawk for your friends conversion?
FASS or Airdog - $525. May not need to go that top end.
Thuren Trackbar - $300
DSS Steering Brace - $209

Sure, he needs to allow for some fix-up cost but nothing that can't be spread out a bit.
Also, granted it's more if paying for installation but these are all fairly easy installs if doing it yourself.
JMO

RJ