Bulb Life Expectation With Relays ???
12-27-2009, 12:16 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Bulb Life Expectation With Relays ???
What kind of life are you guys getting from relayed Silver-Stars ??
Most of our trucks have had the headlight relay modification for a few years(bigger wire, better connections, etc. also) .
Since about day five of the relay modifications, mine and the wife's have also been equipped with H6054ST Sylvania Silver-Star sealed-beams as well.
The improvement in night-time visibility is dramatic, to say the least.
BUT, at the cost of twenty-bucks apiece, the Silver-Stars are fast becoming a luxury that we can't afford under the present administration.
Before the relays, the bulbs in my truck were probably the original ones from 1985; I never had to mess with them.
Now, I can't seem to get a month out of a pair.
Also, in my experiences with ordinary systems/bulbs, usually only the BRITE side of one bulb would fail, and one could drive around for weeks without another element shooting.
With the Silver-Stars and relays, BOTH elements of the bulb will pop, much like an old time camera flash-cube; then, with the other remaining bulb getting 100% of the juice, it won't go another day.
My voltage readings at the lights show nothing to cause this behavior, unless the bulbs are designed not for full voltage, but for the watered-down power of the O.E.M. system.
I just replaced another pair of Silver-Stars in my truck that were barely a month old, this time with some plain old Halogens that I picked up at a swap-meet for a buck apiece; I will see how well these last.
Thanks.
Most of our trucks have had the headlight relay modification for a few years(bigger wire, better connections, etc. also) .
Since about day five of the relay modifications, mine and the wife's have also been equipped with H6054ST Sylvania Silver-Star sealed-beams as well.
The improvement in night-time visibility is dramatic, to say the least.
BUT, at the cost of twenty-bucks apiece, the Silver-Stars are fast becoming a luxury that we can't afford under the present administration.
Before the relays, the bulbs in my truck were probably the original ones from 1985; I never had to mess with them.
Now, I can't seem to get a month out of a pair.
Also, in my experiences with ordinary systems/bulbs, usually only the BRITE side of one bulb would fail, and one could drive around for weeks without another element shooting.
With the Silver-Stars and relays, BOTH elements of the bulb will pop, much like an old time camera flash-cube; then, with the other remaining bulb getting 100% of the juice, it won't go another day.
My voltage readings at the lights show nothing to cause this behavior, unless the bulbs are designed not for full voltage, but for the watered-down power of the O.E.M. system.
I just replaced another pair of Silver-Stars in my truck that were barely a month old, this time with some plain old Halogens that I picked up at a swap-meet for a buck apiece; I will see how well these last.
Thanks.
12-27-2009, 12:42 PM
#2
Adminstrator-ess
I have not popped any yet and it's been a couple years. However, when I relayed my lights I used standard pigtails, 16 gauge wire, and the stock Dodge grounds. So I don't have 14.4 volts at the lights, it's more like 13.5 volts.
Good to see ya, it's been a while.
Good to see ya, it's been a while.
12-27-2009, 12:45 PM
#3
Registered User
I have heard lots about Silverstars' short lifespan on here, but I had been really happy with mine. Got at least a couple of years out of them before one popped. Granted, I don't drive the truck very often at night, and when mine blew it was my fault- I was on the highway, holding the dimmer switch back so both the high and low were shining at once. So I really can't complain about them. Do you spend a lot of time driving at night?
I know it's expensive, but my thought was that you can get some Hella performance headlamps that have a replaceable H4 bulb in them. That way, you have a lot more choice in higher wattage bulbs, instead of being stuck with a sealed beam.
I know it's expensive, but my thought was that you can get some Hella performance headlamps that have a replaceable H4 bulb in them. That way, you have a lot more choice in higher wattage bulbs, instead of being stuck with a sealed beam.
12-27-2009, 01:24 PM
#4
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I think the first gen headlights are superior to the 2nd gen simply because you can change both the lense and the lamp together easy, cheap and quick.
The 2nd gen head lamps are separate from the lenses. The lenses cloud up from the UV light and will sometimes fog up on the inside. This leads to very poor visibility at night. These lenses are expensive and forget trying to adjust the angle of the beams. You also have to be a double jointed contortionist in order to reach in behind the batteries to change said lamp.
The 2nd gen head lamps are separate from the lenses. The lenses cloud up from the UV light and will sometimes fog up on the inside. This leads to very poor visibility at night. These lenses are expensive and forget trying to adjust the angle of the beams. You also have to be a double jointed contortionist in order to reach in behind the batteries to change said lamp.
12-27-2009, 01:45 PM
#5
1st Generation Admin
One of the best things you can do when servicing the head lights is to ensure the male and female connectors are clean and not burnt. Especially the plug connectors (female end). All too often, the plug has corroded a little thus leaving that much less electrical contact area. With that, things overheat. That overheating of the plug combined with running both high and low beams at the same time contributes to the seal of the glass and electrical conductor overheating and fracturing. With that, air leaks in and allows the elements to burn . . . . end of bulb.
I used new high-temperature connectors along with a little electrical grease at the bulbs.
I used new high-temperature connectors along with a little electrical grease at the bulbs.
12-27-2009, 02:33 PM
#6
Registered User
When I did the relays on mine I also switched to the conversion setup using H4 Halogens. I can expect any where from 6mos to 1 year of life The drivers side has been the first to go. My original conversion headlights are plastic and are horrible for light dispersion. I have a set of Hella European glass lens on order along with some HB2 halogen lamps which should be here later next week. I will let you know how well they work.
Bob
Bob
12-27-2009, 05:16 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
On our trucks, the wimpy factory pigtails were replaced with shiny new ones meant for big trucks, with nice big heavy-duty terminal clips/receptacles and 12-AWG leads.
The GROUNDs are bigger/better than the HOT side.
Everything is clean and all connections are as perfect as my abilities allow.
When everything is in order, I can see plumb across the county.
I have the BRITEs/DIMs-together feature switchable by a toggle, such that I can choose normal operation or both; probably 90% of my driving is with the switch set for NORMAL.
When driving on rainy/overcast days, usually 363 days per year here in Kentucky, I keep them on DIM.
If my change to plain old Halogens proves that it is not the fault of the Silver-Stars, then maybe I will try to implement some type of current reducing device ahead of the lights.
As for those seperate bulbs (not sealed-beam) whatever they are called, the reason they use them on all the newer vehicles is because they are so much cheaper to produce and install than good old sealed-beams, along with all the beam-adjusting bracketry, etc., that goes along with the sealed-beam system; I bet it doesn't cost the manufacturer fifty-cents per vehicle for both bulb and lens; I have never considered them to be a better light.
Thanks.
The GROUNDs are bigger/better than the HOT side.
Everything is clean and all connections are as perfect as my abilities allow.
When everything is in order, I can see plumb across the county.
I have the BRITEs/DIMs-together feature switchable by a toggle, such that I can choose normal operation or both; probably 90% of my driving is with the switch set for NORMAL.
When driving on rainy/overcast days, usually 363 days per year here in Kentucky, I keep them on DIM.
If my change to plain old Halogens proves that it is not the fault of the Silver-Stars, then maybe I will try to implement some type of current reducing device ahead of the lights.
As for those seperate bulbs (not sealed-beam) whatever they are called, the reason they use them on all the newer vehicles is because they are so much cheaper to produce and install than good old sealed-beams, along with all the beam-adjusting bracketry, etc., that goes along with the sealed-beam system; I bet it doesn't cost the manufacturer fifty-cents per vehicle for both bulb and lens; I have never considered them to be a better light.
Thanks.
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12-28-2009, 02:03 AM
#8
Administrator
What kind of life are you guys getting from relayed Silver-Stars ??
Somewhere between 7 to 8 months on a pair of SilverStars.
Most of our trucks have had the headlight relay modification for a few years(bigger wire, better connections, etc. also) .
Since about day five of the relay modifications, mine and the wife's have also been equipped with H6054ST Sylvania Silver-Star sealed-beams as well.
The improvement in night-time visibility is dramatic, to say the least.
BUT, at the cost of twenty-bucks apiece, the Silver-Stars are fast becoming a luxury that we can't afford under the present administration.
When did you start having problems with your headlamps burning out, right after you installed the relays or did it just start happening?
Before the relays, the bulbs in my truck were probably the original ones from 1985; I never had to mess with them.
Now, I can't seem to get a month out of a pair.
Also, in my experiences with ordinary systems/bulbs, usually only the BRITE side of one bulb would fail, and one could drive around for weeks without another element shooting.
My Hi beams usually never fail but only the Low beam and mine are staggered so one will blow out 3-4 weeks after the first one goes like clockwork but even though that I know the next one is going to burn out within a few weeks I find it hard to go and buy the replacement before it does.
With the Silver-Stars and relays, BOTH elements of the bulb will pop, much like an old time camera flash-cube; then, with the other remaining bulb getting 100% of the juice, it won't go another day.
WOW a Flashcube I haven’t played with those things in a while, the Magicube was more fun, they were self-igniting and were made into all kinds of fun devices.
This to me indicates over voltage, the lamp should be able to take about 16.0 volts before it burns out, I have run mine at 14.8 volts at the back of the lamp and they still lasted for at least 6 months at this voltage.
My voltage readings at the lights show nothing to cause this behavior, unless the bulbs are designed not for full voltage, but for the watered-down power of the O.E.M. system.
Where did you connect the wire from the relay to the battery?? Check all of the connections to the battery, especially the alternator feed, wire to your relay and of course your grounds, you want to make sure that the battery is able to absorb any voltages spikes and fluctuations from the alternator.
If your grid heaters are cycling it could be causing the charging system to try to recover and overcharge your battery
If you look at the finned heatsink mounted to the side of the master cylinder you will be looking at my voltage regulator, it drops the voltage to the headlamps by about 1.0 volt.
Reducing the voltage to the lamps extended the life of my lamps by about 1 to 2 months.
I am still supplying the filaments with about 13.8 volts.
Read the information that I had posted earlier at the end of this post, it will explain the short life.
How are you measuring your voltage, at the battery, back of the lamp? Also your voltage could be higher when the truck is running down the road than it is with you just revving the engine with the hood up, it also depends on the temperature.
Do you have dual batteries on these trucks? Your battery is going to have a higher surface charge during the day from being charged with minimal loads, I have seen mine close to 13.5 volts after a drive down the freeway at 75 MPH.
Make a set of long leads from your headlamp socket and run it into the cab and connect it to your DMM and check the voltage as you normally drive your truck
I just replaced another pair of Silver-Stars in my truck that were barely a month old, this time with some plain old Halogens that I picked up at a swap-meet for a buck apiece; I will see how well these last.
Thanks.
Somewhere between 7 to 8 months on a pair of SilverStars.
Most of our trucks have had the headlight relay modification for a few years(bigger wire, better connections, etc. also) .
Since about day five of the relay modifications, mine and the wife's have also been equipped with H6054ST Sylvania Silver-Star sealed-beams as well.
The improvement in night-time visibility is dramatic, to say the least.
BUT, at the cost of twenty-bucks apiece, the Silver-Stars are fast becoming a luxury that we can't afford under the present administration.
When did you start having problems with your headlamps burning out, right after you installed the relays or did it just start happening?
Before the relays, the bulbs in my truck were probably the original ones from 1985; I never had to mess with them.
Now, I can't seem to get a month out of a pair.
Also, in my experiences with ordinary systems/bulbs, usually only the BRITE side of one bulb would fail, and one could drive around for weeks without another element shooting.
My Hi beams usually never fail but only the Low beam and mine are staggered so one will blow out 3-4 weeks after the first one goes like clockwork but even though that I know the next one is going to burn out within a few weeks I find it hard to go and buy the replacement before it does.
With the Silver-Stars and relays, BOTH elements of the bulb will pop, much like an old time camera flash-cube; then, with the other remaining bulb getting 100% of the juice, it won't go another day.
WOW a Flashcube I haven’t played with those things in a while, the Magicube was more fun, they were self-igniting and were made into all kinds of fun devices.
This to me indicates over voltage, the lamp should be able to take about 16.0 volts before it burns out, I have run mine at 14.8 volts at the back of the lamp and they still lasted for at least 6 months at this voltage.
My voltage readings at the lights show nothing to cause this behavior, unless the bulbs are designed not for full voltage, but for the watered-down power of the O.E.M. system.
Where did you connect the wire from the relay to the battery?? Check all of the connections to the battery, especially the alternator feed, wire to your relay and of course your grounds, you want to make sure that the battery is able to absorb any voltages spikes and fluctuations from the alternator.
If your grid heaters are cycling it could be causing the charging system to try to recover and overcharge your battery
If you look at the finned heatsink mounted to the side of the master cylinder you will be looking at my voltage regulator, it drops the voltage to the headlamps by about 1.0 volt.
Reducing the voltage to the lamps extended the life of my lamps by about 1 to 2 months.
I am still supplying the filaments with about 13.8 volts.
Read the information that I had posted earlier at the end of this post, it will explain the short life.
How are you measuring your voltage, at the battery, back of the lamp? Also your voltage could be higher when the truck is running down the road than it is with you just revving the engine with the hood up, it also depends on the temperature.
Do you have dual batteries on these trucks? Your battery is going to have a higher surface charge during the day from being charged with minimal loads, I have seen mine close to 13.5 volts after a drive down the freeway at 75 MPH.
Make a set of long leads from your headlamp socket and run it into the cab and connect it to your DMM and check the voltage as you normally drive your truck
I just replaced another pair of Silver-Stars in my truck that were barely a month old, this time with some plain old Halogens that I picked up at a swap-meet for a buck apiece; I will see how well these last.
Thanks.
My SilverStars only last around 7 to 8 months since that I have installed my relays.
I have probably the ultimate electrical system on my truck with my 160-amp Leece Neville alternator turning out 100-amps at an IDLE, all of the charging system is wired using #2-gauge welding cable to each battery. Each headlamp is fed with a 10-gauge wire so I am supplying each lamp with at least 30-amps @14.8 volts.
I wish that the lamps would last a bit longer but the extreme output that I am getting from these lamps I think is a fair trade-off for the shorter life.
If you look at the specifications for the SilverStars you will see that they are actually running them at 14.0 volts to get the rated lumens
Quoted from: http://sylvaniaautomotivecatalog.wbd...nTechInfo.aspx
Rated Life
The rated average laboratory life to be expected operating the lamps on stationary racks, energized with regulated D.C. voltage. Actual service life will vary with application.
In incandescent lamps, the filament resistance, temperature, current, watts, light output, and life are all greatly affected by the voltage. Empirical equations are available, relating those parameters to voltage over ranges of as much as 10% from nominal voltage. The designer may improve one parameter by changing the voltage, but in doing so shifts all the other parameters. For example, the life varies so that a small decrease in voltage will greatly extend the life; but the light output will simultaneously decrease as the fourth power of that voltage. The nomograph and curve diagrams below show the interrelationships of current, candlepower, and operating life to voltage.
All life data presented in the catalog are given as B50 @ 14.0 volts for halogen products and at bulb rated voltage for all others unless noted.
So this lamp should be able to run at 14.0 volts since this is the test voltage that they check them at.
And if I am reading this right I think it is kind of unfair to rate the lumens at a voltage much higher than the 12.8 volts that the lamp is rated for.
Read this for more data on lamp life.
I have more information on these lamps on this thread.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...w-t256595.html
As far as the lamp generating more heat and burning out unless you live out in the country most people would not have their High beams on for any extended period of time and as for the life of the lamp, halogen lamps burn excessively hot by their nature and I feel the rough handling of the lamp by the rough ride of our trucks combined with the halogen capsules searing heat plays an equal part in the short life of our lamps, but I could be wrong.
Other members here with unmodified headlamp wiring also seem to be experiencing shorter than normal life from these lamps.
So if you are thinking is my modification causing the lamps to have a shorter life and is it worth it?
Yes I am sure the added voltage and current gained from the relays is causing them to burn out quicker but most everyone will agree with me that the brute force in light output is well worth having to replace then a little sooner.
Jim
12-30-2009, 06:39 PM
#10
That's funny- never seen 120/150 W H-4's. Bulbs are designed around 200 hrs, with a voltage of 13.2 volts.
The bigger wattage bulb requires a longer filiment and it gets farther away from being a point source. You get more and more distracting light.
I'm running the 65/75w bulbs. Like them just as much as the 100/130's.
I think both sets were Oscram.
M
The bigger wattage bulb requires a longer filiment and it gets farther away from being a point source. You get more and more distracting light.
I'm running the 65/75w bulbs. Like them just as much as the 100/130's.
I think both sets were Oscram.
M
12-30-2009, 07:49 PM
#11
Registered User
I started a thread a couple months back on the same subject. I got very short life out of Silver Stars in every vehicle my son and I tried them in. The list of vehicles was:
2002 Toyota 4Runner
2004 Colorado
1992 Dodge W350
The Dodge is relayed with oversized wires and new pigtails. The rest are stock from the factory. I will not buy another Silver Star. I aam currently running Hella Conversion lens with HB2 DOT bulbs. The low beams are jumpered to run with the high beams. So far I have not replaced a bulb.
2002 Toyota 4Runner
2004 Colorado
1992 Dodge W350
The Dodge is relayed with oversized wires and new pigtails. The rest are stock from the factory. I will not buy another Silver Star. I aam currently running Hella Conversion lens with HB2 DOT bulbs. The low beams are jumpered to run with the high beams. So far I have not replaced a bulb.
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