Brakes
05-23-2008, 09:42 PM
#1
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Brakes
My brakes are squeeking constantly when using them and it is starting to perterve me. I checked them before the trip to TS last month and they still had better than 60% left on them. This squeeking bothers me to the point of changing them to some ceramic pads so that I also lessen the amount of brake dust that is on the rims after a few miles. Anyway, I am looking for some recomendations on Ceramic pads, and maybe even new rotors. Let me know what you have and how you like it. If they squeek at all I will not put them on, it is one of those things that I can not stand, kinda like finger nails on a chalk board to me.
Thanks
06 DIESEL
Thanks
06 DIESEL
05-23-2008, 09:55 PM
#2
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Squeaking is not always the pads. It may be a build up of contimates on pads and sanding on flat surface will help. The calipers could be draging on mounting brackets. Sometimes a few hard braking events with take squeak out for city drivers. I have had very good luck with Advance auto parts and Auto zone's line of premium pads. My experience with ceramic pads left something to be desired. JMHO
05-28-2008, 10:33 PM
#3
Cummins Guru
Eliminating Squeal
In order to dampen brake system vibration, you have several options to consider: Chemical insulating compound on pad backs, shim insulators between pad backs and the caliper, and high-temperature grease on caliper pins.
Application of anti-squeal compound on the backside of the pad backing plate can serve to prevent pad vibration, although some owners consider this "damper in a tube" a temporary measure at best. If this compound is used, it's critical to allow sufficient curing time before the brake system is used. All too often, installers apply this compound, install the pads, and immediately send the vehicle out of the shop. If the compound is not thoroughly dry and cured, it will simply squeeze out from behind the backing plate on the first brake application, rendering it useless. Apply a heavy bead on the backing plate, and allow it to completely dry before pad installation. This forms an elastic cushion that absorbs pad vibration.
Insulating shims (vastly preferable solutions to anti-squeal compound) install on the backside of the pads, between pad and caliper. Shims provide a permanent vibration damper. Shims are available for a variety of models. If their use is recommended, install them! One aspect that's often overlooked and one that can easily contribute to brake noise, involves the caliper pins or sliding surfaces. If these metal-to metal friction surfaces are dry, they can temporarily bind and chatter during operation, resulting in a squealing noise. Clean and lubricate the sides and pins with a high-temperature silicon grease. Naturally, exercise care when applying the grease to prevent contamination of the rotor and pads.
Sanding the Rotors
That's right, sanding. A common source of brake squeal is due to the vibrations that are generated when the pads make contact with a rotor surface that is not smooth. I know what you're thinking--if the rotor has just been resurfaced, it must be smooth. However, most brake lathes machine-finish the rotor surfaces with a cutting bit that leaves a series of peaks and valleys. A nicely machined swirl finish may look great, but this surface finish can contribute to minuscule pad chatter. Once the chatter starts, a continuing resonance is created (a tiny series of vibrations that build to a harmonic pitch). Once the rotor has been resurfaced on the lathe, sand the surface with 120 to 150-grit sandpaper (you can use a flat sanding block or a DA sander). Perform the sanding while the rotor turns on the lathe to assure a uniform sanding, in the effort to avoid isolated pressure spots. Don't try to achieve a "swirl" pattern, or any distinct pattern, for that matter. As the rotor turns on the lathe, with cutting bit disengaged, apply the sandpaper from the outer circumference of the disc towards the center. Continue this until the distinct machined finish that was created by the cutting bit is no longer identifiable (about 60 seconds per disc side).
This sanding action serves to smooth the rotor surface, eliminating the severe differences between the machined peaks and valleys. "Noise" typically is generated by a series of vibrations. That applies to the human voice, records, and brake rotors. In other words, if you want the brakes to hush, you have to eliminate the vibrations that are created during the pad-to-rotor contact.
Cleaning the Rotor
Most of us love to use spray cans of bake cleaning solvent. It cleans quickly and cuts through nasty grime with ease. And while it certainly has its place as part of any brake job, it probably isn't the best way to perfectly clean the rotor surface after machining and sanding, a thin film of microscopic dust and grit may remain in the tiny valleys on the rotor surface. To assure a clean rotor after sanding, try washing the rotor in a mixture of detergent and hot water. This will do a great job of cleaning the rotor surface. A thin film of fine grit can cause a chatter of squealing problem, so cleaning should be taken very seriously. The detergent and hot water will cut through the fine embedded layer of grit that might remain otherwise. In addition to serving as one of the steps toward reducing of eliminating brake noise, detergent washing can also improve the performance of the brake system. In fact, brake manufacturer tests have shown a gain of as much as 8% in braking torque with sanded and detergent-washed rotors.
In order to dampen brake system vibration, you have several options to consider: Chemical insulating compound on pad backs, shim insulators between pad backs and the caliper, and high-temperature grease on caliper pins.
Application of anti-squeal compound on the backside of the pad backing plate can serve to prevent pad vibration, although some owners consider this "damper in a tube" a temporary measure at best. If this compound is used, it's critical to allow sufficient curing time before the brake system is used. All too often, installers apply this compound, install the pads, and immediately send the vehicle out of the shop. If the compound is not thoroughly dry and cured, it will simply squeeze out from behind the backing plate on the first brake application, rendering it useless. Apply a heavy bead on the backing plate, and allow it to completely dry before pad installation. This forms an elastic cushion that absorbs pad vibration.
Insulating shims (vastly preferable solutions to anti-squeal compound) install on the backside of the pads, between pad and caliper. Shims provide a permanent vibration damper. Shims are available for a variety of models. If their use is recommended, install them! One aspect that's often overlooked and one that can easily contribute to brake noise, involves the caliper pins or sliding surfaces. If these metal-to metal friction surfaces are dry, they can temporarily bind and chatter during operation, resulting in a squealing noise. Clean and lubricate the sides and pins with a high-temperature silicon grease. Naturally, exercise care when applying the grease to prevent contamination of the rotor and pads.
Sanding the Rotors
That's right, sanding. A common source of brake squeal is due to the vibrations that are generated when the pads make contact with a rotor surface that is not smooth. I know what you're thinking--if the rotor has just been resurfaced, it must be smooth. However, most brake lathes machine-finish the rotor surfaces with a cutting bit that leaves a series of peaks and valleys. A nicely machined swirl finish may look great, but this surface finish can contribute to minuscule pad chatter. Once the chatter starts, a continuing resonance is created (a tiny series of vibrations that build to a harmonic pitch). Once the rotor has been resurfaced on the lathe, sand the surface with 120 to 150-grit sandpaper (you can use a flat sanding block or a DA sander). Perform the sanding while the rotor turns on the lathe to assure a uniform sanding, in the effort to avoid isolated pressure spots. Don't try to achieve a "swirl" pattern, or any distinct pattern, for that matter. As the rotor turns on the lathe, with cutting bit disengaged, apply the sandpaper from the outer circumference of the disc towards the center. Continue this until the distinct machined finish that was created by the cutting bit is no longer identifiable (about 60 seconds per disc side).
This sanding action serves to smooth the rotor surface, eliminating the severe differences between the machined peaks and valleys. "Noise" typically is generated by a series of vibrations. That applies to the human voice, records, and brake rotors. In other words, if you want the brakes to hush, you have to eliminate the vibrations that are created during the pad-to-rotor contact.
Cleaning the Rotor
Most of us love to use spray cans of bake cleaning solvent. It cleans quickly and cuts through nasty grime with ease. And while it certainly has its place as part of any brake job, it probably isn't the best way to perfectly clean the rotor surface after machining and sanding, a thin film of microscopic dust and grit may remain in the tiny valleys on the rotor surface. To assure a clean rotor after sanding, try washing the rotor in a mixture of detergent and hot water. This will do a great job of cleaning the rotor surface. A thin film of fine grit can cause a chatter of squealing problem, so cleaning should be taken very seriously. The detergent and hot water will cut through the fine embedded layer of grit that might remain otherwise. In addition to serving as one of the steps toward reducing of eliminating brake noise, detergent washing can also improve the performance of the brake system. In fact, brake manufacturer tests have shown a gain of as much as 8% in braking torque with sanded and detergent-washed rotors.
05-29-2008, 02:15 PM
#4
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Great info Big Iron. One thing you did not mention is that if the truck is used
In dusty conditions, dust will collect on the rotor and be transfered to the pad. The dust gets embedded and will squeal as the brakes are applied and the dust is ground away by the rotor. One other cause, if you are a very light footed braker you may actually glaze the pads into a very smooth surface. This can also cause those pesky vibrations.
Easy cure for both of the above.... On an open road with no traffic, get to speed and apply brakes very firmly. (Not so hard you lock the tires up... kinda defeats the purpose) This will wipe any dust particles off of your pads, and remove the glazing as well.
Most forgotten item in doing a brake job, polish and lube the slider bars!!!
In dusty conditions, dust will collect on the rotor and be transfered to the pad. The dust gets embedded and will squeal as the brakes are applied and the dust is ground away by the rotor. One other cause, if you are a very light footed braker you may actually glaze the pads into a very smooth surface. This can also cause those pesky vibrations.
Easy cure for both of the above.... On an open road with no traffic, get to speed and apply brakes very firmly. (Not so hard you lock the tires up... kinda defeats the purpose) This will wipe any dust particles off of your pads, and remove the glazing as well.
Most forgotten item in doing a brake job, polish and lube the slider bars!!!
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