phal

I am focusing on the front end next weekend so I thought I would get a jump on the project and check out the brakes this weekend.

I examined my old rotors and the scale is so thick I can no longer read the minimum rotor thickness.

Doe anyone have the minimum rotor thickness for a 2001 2500?

Rotor min width would be based on the max travel of the caliper right, so there should be a known minimum figure for the rotor?

Thanks.....gary

johnh

any brake shop has the info you need.....but it's cheaper to buy new ones, i went through that before

phal

I am trying to figure out if I can reuse the old rotors. At $88 a piece it is adding hefty money to the front end rebuild. With the new shocks, bushings and ball joints and brake shoes I am already at $560. this is not counting the new injection pump, lift pump and new tires I have put on in the last 6 weeks. I am running out of cash.
We have a Napa shop close by, I will try getting the info from them....
thanks...gary

sheriffav8r

Do the "Big Brake Upgrade" and you won't have to do your brakes as often. Same price, mo betta stopping.... Rotors are $63 apiece from AutoZone....

blackimpala

What is the "big brake upgrade? It would help a lot if you went into a little explanation. At least a link to what you are talking about. As for the rotors if mine are not warped or damaged somehow I reuse them, no resurfacing if they have never been turned I dought they are down to the limit.

Floyd

sheriffav8r

It was in quotes so you could do a search on this site. It's easy, popular, and makes your truck stop like it should. Basically you are replacing your rotors, calipers, and brackets with 2003+ hardware. You do need 17" wheels, though as the assembly is larger than 16" will permit....

johnh

my first brake job they weren't warped but were worn to the point they couldn't be turned legally ,so i replaced them....i think the manufacturer made them so you had to buy new ones instead of turning them

royta

I'm pretty sure that if he is trying to save the $88 a piece on new rotors, that the sting of new rotors, caliper brackets, and four new wheels is probably out of the question. Oh, great suggestion though.

johnh

as far as wheels go, i bought a spare 17" wheel from big O for 20 dollars last week, so they aren't that hard to find at a reasonable price

Rare1

Rotors do not need to be turned or replaced when installing new pads, unless they are warped, even if the surface is grooved. Your new soft cheap pads (which is the only type you should use) will wear in to the old surface. If the rotors have worn to less than some arbitrary thickness, or you have pulsing, or warping, you have used the wrong pads. The pads are sacrifical, cheap (or free) to replace, but the rotors are expensive and difficult. Use cheap soft pads which are exchanged free at Autozone when they wear out. I have used original grooved and "too thin" rotors for half a century, even on high performance cars, with never a problem. You can replace your front pads for $30 in your driveway and get the same result as a $300 "everything new" job at your brake shop.

My Autozone pads and 12 year old grooved rotors will lock up the front tires with the Lance camper on. Good enough. The upgraded rear cylinders provide additional stopping power.

infidel

Click> https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ighlight=37337

olddodgetrucks

we used keep groved rotors for race car,groved rotor has more braking surface,take a piece of paper fold it up and then pull it strait and see how much surface you have

nickg

or here

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...+brake+upgrade

blackimpala

Thanks for the replys for the "big brake" upgrade. I did that a couple years ago, I got the information off another forum. It has worked well for me.

Floyd

mechrisme

the minimum thickness of the rotor should be stamped on the backside of the rotor, it was on mine at least