colesdad

Sure would appreciate some help here. I just got back from taking my truck in to the shop where the previous owner has taken it to for around 10 years. I have complete confidence in their work BTW. Here is the senario, the previous owner felt that the brakes weren't working as well as they had so he took the truck in to have them repaired before he sold the truck to me. The pads and shoes are in great shape, they adjusted and bled the brakes, still a soft/spongie pedal, so they replaced the master cylinder, still the same thing.... a soft/spongie pedal. They ordered the "dump valve" ??? the anti lock part of the system....... well here we are today. I took the truck in and they installed the part, re-bled the system and still the same outcome...... a soft/spongie brake pedal. They are scratching their heads, they aren't giving up by any means, they want to make the brakes perfect.

I thought possible someone here may have some ideas..... ??

Thanks

Nuttymopar

I would change the pads and valve in the rear brakes to 1 ton chevy parts. Our old dodge will always have spongy feeling brake pedal. But I do know that you can upgrde to 1-ton stuff. I just forget currently as I haven't worked on a 1st gen in a year. Pads and the little thing that pushes the 2 pads out to brake, whatever that is called..LOL

wannadiesel

Mine is not spongy. Stock Dodge 1 ton brakes.

If there are no visible leaks and the master is new, the dump valve is a good guess. If they haven't replaced the brakes hoses yet that would be cheaper than the dump valve.

ChrisLib

Since just about everything is new I`ll toss in a vote for all new rubber hoses. I went thru a similar thing on an 86 gas W250, long story short the main culprit was the front hose that drops from the frame to the diff housing. It was original and oil soaked from years of leakage, you could actually see the hose expand when the brakes were applied thats how soft it was. I relaced both of the frame to diff hoses with braided stainless ones from Skyjacker and also replaced the small outer ones by the front knuckles with reglar OE deals....I wish my CTD had as nice a pedal feel to it.

colesdad

Both the shop and I are perplexed at this one. The original brake job (to correct the spongy pedal) was done Nov 2nd (a month and a half ago) I got the truck Nov 3rd so I could go (get stranded for a week+) Elk hunting knowing that they were going to replace the dump valve they had on order as soon as it came in. Well..... I took it in today and had it installed and no change, still the spongy pedal.

I believe that a 1 ton system would work BUT...... the system was working great up until 4 to 6 months ago...... I am wondering why I would need to switch to a 1 ton system to make the brake pedal feel solid like it did 6 months ago........ I mean, shouldn't a combination of good pads and shoes, turned drums and rotors with a new master cylinder and a new dump valve in a brake system that has been pressure bled and has no leaks produce the hard feeling pedal the truck had? Hum......

jogl

ChrisLib:

Have you put the fancy braided hoses on your CTD to see if you would get the nice pedal feel?

Just curious, if you say no I am going to try some braided hoses. Not happy with my brakes.

Thanks,
JP.

wannadiesel

I agree. The point I was trying to make is that no special parts are needed for a firm pedal, and that throwing big wheel cylinders will make no difference unless the stock ones are leaky.

ChrisLib

No, not yet. I have too many other irons in the fire right now (like getting the oil to stop pouring out of the rear main seal ). It`s on the (ever growing) list of things to do tho

scottmn1

Make sure the rear brake shoes are properly adjusted. Sometimes it takes several attempts of adjsuting them out to the drums, then moving the truck forwards and backwards pressing the brake pedal each time to recenter them, then adjust again. It may take 3 or 4 times doing this to get them adjusted properly. This can and will cause a spongy pedal.

colesdad

I understood what you were saying Dave, the cylinders are fine, no leaks...?? Anyways, I'm just hoping someone here has experianced what I am going through and can throw some solutions my way.

scottmn1, I will try that again, thanks.

BRUISER

Easy fix. I just did it to mine.. change the Brake Booster..

I did everything you listened and changed every part you listed with same outcome.. last weekend I did the brake booster and now the truck stops on a dime..

Trust me for the $80 it is worth it.

colesdad

Went out and did this a while ago, 5 times, each time while backing up I pumped the pedal 5,6,7 times. The pedal felt great, right up at the top...perfect................. until I pulled up to the stop sign a block down the street. Yup....... same thing, pedal went 1/2 way to the floor until it started to stop the truck.

The booster crossed my mind earlier this afternoon....... gotta feeling that's where this repair is going next.

JimmieD

If it's a vacuum actuated booster I'd check the line and connections going to it first, before replacing the whole booster assembly. If it's Hydro-boost that probably wouldn't apply and would be the booster itself.

BRUISER

FYI: I replaced the booster on my '92 in 30 mins.. very easy job.. 4 bolts in cab, 2 bolts on master to remove and 3 vacuum lines and it slides right out..

RickCJ

Doesn't sound like spongey brakes! That is air in the system or rear brakes out of adjustment.