Bad Ramer Jamer

I'm out on the road getting ready to do my brake's in the motel parking lot. Has anyone used the one way check valve bleeder's that you screw into the caliper. Are they worth a hoot. It just seem's like they would let a little air in when you let off the pedal. I'm just leary I guess. I can get them at Advanced Auto for $10 a pair.

So, has anyone tried them. Thank's

Patriot_Auto

Speed bleeders are quite handy for one man bleeding jobs. I install alot of them. They are worth their weight in gold.

Bad Ramer Jamer

Well that make's me feel a little better. Thank you sir.

Jeff in TD

If you don't go that route, I'd highly suggest a Mity-Vac hand vacuum pump.

It makes bleeding brakes a snap, though sometimes you need to put some pipe tape on the threads of the bleeder valve, so it will suck air/fluid out of the system instead of air around the threads.

I'd pay extra for the one with the gauge. It comes in handy for testing sensors, draining motorcycles with a vacuum operated petcock, and it's a snap to change the fork oil in my roadking w/o taking the legs out of the tripple clamp, or even taking the nacelle apart.

Mostly it's great for brake bleeding.

nwjetboat

Now days with the ABS systems, the best way to get a good brake flush and bleed is to use either vac system or pressure bleeder. Take a look at these from Motive.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

nsxt

I've used Speed Bleeders before, and don't recommend them. They might be ok if you are going for a full system flush, loosen one up and pump away. But for bleeding the last bit of air out, they always seem to leak air past the red thread sealant back into the caliper. That, and I had a high failure rate where the check ball valve didn't work at all.

The Solo Bleed screws look like a better design to me, but I haven't used them.

Best thing I've used so far: Buy your neighbor a beer and bleed both of your cars.

Det 1

I'll second the nomination for Mity-Vac. I have the econo version, without the guage. I've used it to bleed brakes on both trucks & motorcycles, change out fluid on a motorcycle hydraulic clutch, and to lower the level of transmission fluid when I overfilled.

MikeyB

I use the Motive Power Bleeder.

MikeyB

Jeff in TD

I think this is the set I have. There are a variety of fancier ones w/case, and cheaper ones w/o gauge or other fittings. If I recall I got mine at Napa.

http://www.toolsource.com/vacuum-pum...g-p-65755.html

Bad Ramer Jamer

I've really been wanting one of the Motive bleeder's. But,,,I'm out on the road,,,in a motel parking lot needing front brake's.

My option's are to use speed bleeder's, or nothing. To tell the truth I've never bled the brake's when changing pad's. I didn't know you were supposed to. The tech I talked to at Bendix said you should alway's bleed them. What do you guy's think.

BMH95

I change fluid at 100K. Rotors too. I just to soft pad slaps up to the 100k mark and then change the fluids and rotors. I would not worry about bleeding the brakes - especially if you haven't opened the bleeders yet. What's the point? There's not air in the resivouirs, or you would have a spongy peddle. Slap the pads on, get back home, and worry about changing the fluid when you can find someone with a power bleeder that works off a compressor. Then you just crack the bleeders, hook up the hoses, and fill the master fluid resiviour until you get fresh fluid out of all four wheels.

nsxt

No reason to bleed just because pads are changed, although it might be considered preventative maintenance and is convenient to do so since the wheel is already off.

If the pedal is firm, drive it. If it is a little squishy, drive it. If you have to pump it a few times before the brakes engage, find a local kid, pay him $10 to pump the pedal while you bleed.