silverbullet_65

Hey
New to this forum. I hope I can benefit from someone else's experience with the CTD. In an attempt to gain some more boost, I removed the elbow from the line that runs from the bottom of the turbo to the wastegate and plugged it with a brass fitting. Obviously no pressure is now going to the wastegate. Is this the best way to get all the boost possible out of this truck, or is there another way? I've been hearing about Turbo Master, but not really sure how fooling with the wastegate would do any more than not allowing the turbo to put all available air to the intake side of the engine instead of to the wastegate. Does the wastegate actually cause the huffer to generate more boost in some situations? Thanks for the help

BPonci

You really need a wastegate to control the turbine speed,drive pressure and the air temp.The more you compress air the more it heats up.You can delay the gate opening by either buying a boost fitting or making your own.Adjust to your needs but don't go over 36 psi.Hot boost is bad boost.Hope this helps you.

infidel

You Do need a wastegate for many reasons;

1) to control turbine shaft speed and keep it at a safe limit
2) to control back pressure in the exhaust manifold.
3) to prevent excessive heat in charge air.
4) to control boost so proper Air/Fuel ratios are maintained.
5) to prevent HIGH EGT from backpressure.
21 Psi will support 350 hp flywheel with clean tail pipe and EGT well within spec. When you raise boost you raise charge air temp which in turn raises EGT for all reasons listed above.

Every turbocharger is sized to run at a specific boost level, where the turbo can make COOL Boost, when you go above that it makes HOT boost, NO GOOD!!!

So many people are concerned with backpressure when it comes to turbine housing size, BUT NO ONE takes that in to consideration when disabling wastegates.

Don't do it You Don't Need it, it won't make any more power, Probably less.

silverbullet_65

So the best way to go about this is to leave the wastegate hooked up but to modify the brass fitting that comes out the front of the turbo? The stock one is just a straight 90 degree elbow. Does a modified one have a smaller aperture or something? I've seen them advertised as high boost fittings but they all just looked like piping in the photos. Where is a good place to buy one, or a place to find diagrams to make one. Or, is the spring loaded plunger in the wastegate the device that can be adjusted/replaced with a higher boost setting? Or could I just put a 36 psi popoff valve in the line to the wastegate?
Thanks

BPonci

www.Piersdiesel.com they have just what you need.

infidel

The boost elbows have a allan head screw tapped into them that adjusts down to block part of the flow. An inline valve would do just the same.
The results are the same as adjusting the wastegate linkage, just easier.

wannadiesel

If you want an easily adjustable system get a TurboMaster. I like mine.

hellotbone

I think we all need to ask this question why do you want to increase boost? If the engine is stock (no sig) then increasing boost will do 2 things nothing for HP and set a code when your map reads the higher pressure.

If you want to increase HP the eaisest most reliable etc etc etc....is with a fueling box Edge or TST are my choices. If you plan on increasing HP though the first thing you should concider is gauges one to see just how high you are taking the boost and 2 what EGT's your engine is running at. Also you want a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the LP to make sure that it doesn't go and then take out your expensive VP44 injectoion pump.

Lastly you have to decide pretty much first hand how much HP you plan on making it certinly changes depending on your goal and how much $$$ you want to spend. Finally if your truck is an auto plan on eventully spending money on the trans it will go. If you add an edge EZ and are nice to it and don't tow heavy and aren't a throttle jockey we have one here that is a 99 with over 100,000km on its original LP and trans.

Now to answer your question DO NOT disconnect the waste gate you will over speed that turbo of yours blow it to kingdom come and may send parts through your engine. Increasing boost is going to do nothing increasing fuel will though

AlpineRAM

hellotbone: If it's a 24V it will boost until 22psi (even without hte elbow and then defuel- only if it can't defuel enough it will set a code and send you home limping.
If it's a 12V - those undervalvers are very inconsiderate about overboost- they just let it happen.

Anyway, silverbullet as read here you won't get a single hp out of your truck by just making more boost. If you could fill in your signature it will be much easier to answer your questions.

AlpineRAM

billg

First welcome to the site silverbullet_65. It would be a good idea to fill in the “ Signature” section of your Profile with the info of your truck (year, type of tranny and any mods) so the ones familiar with your truck can help.
I agree with hellotbone and Alpine (you beat me to the post Alpine) comments above. The other thing that will happen is the ECM will start to defuel in an attempt to bring down what it sees as an over boost condition. Unless you have a boost fooler it won’t do you much good to raise your boost unless you have the fuel to use it (bigger injectors or fueling box).
As for the boost elbow the way it works is there is a small hole in the elbow (about wire drill size #70) that bleeds off pressure before the waste gate control. With the bleed off it will take more pressure to start opening the gate, it’s a controlled leak.
Just my $0.02 worth.

infidel

According to silverbullet's profile he has a '97 12 valve,
no lift pump problems or fueling boxes necessary.

AlpineRAM

Silverbullet: I did look at you profile just now- it doesn't mention any gauges or tranny mods.
Get at least an EGT gauge! Does your truck smoke at WOT when under boost?

AlpineRAM

silverbullet_65

Several things. . .
First of all I think I have the signature line thing figured out now, so here's hoping it shows up on this post.
Secondly, the plan with this truck is to get it up to around 230-240 hp
the # 8 plate is waiting to go in. . .hopefully spring break. About how many hours does this operation take? I got the instructions from TST's website but I don't believe it listed a time. I've got all the tools it listed and a decent shop. Obviously it will vary since it's the first time doing it, but just a ballpark figure.
The reason I wanted to increase boost was because. . . I was wrong! I figured that would make some more power right off and also figured it would cut down on smoke once I got the plate installed. Since I had the time to fool with the turbo but not the plate the last time I had the truck in the shop for maintenance, I just started there. That's also the reason I replaced the stock air filter: I knew eventually the thing would need more air.
Mostly this truck drives me around. When it tows, it tows a cattle trailer and a 20+5 gooseneck flatbed trailer with fertilizer, chemicals on it (around 16k for that) The trans is stock, although I did do all the band adjustments on it as soon as I got it home. Obviously I never tow it in OD. I've put 12k on it (110k total on truck) and nothing bad has happened so far.
The pyrometer is coming, I'm trying to locate a wrecked semi that has a matching set of gauges (pyro/boost/oil temp) to keep the costs down.

Thanks to all who have posted so far

RubbrEngnr

I just installed a #8 TST plate this weekend. It went in in a little over an hour with no problems. It's a little tight around the injection lines but the directions are very good (I had the video as well). I opted for the turbo-master over the boost elbow. It also was also an easy install, it's adjustability sold me. I'm thrilled with the improvement so far and have made no star wheel adjustments. I've got the turbo-master set for a max of 26 psi. Good Luck!