BearKiller

On the son's truck, non-A/C cab (with aftermarket air), in original factory configuration, does the ignition-switch trigger a relay that controls the power to the blower; or does the ignition-switch carry all the fire to the blower with no relay between??

Thanks.

searcher

I don't understand, but my schematic doesn't show a relay. You have a PM.

G1625S

I think the blower switch carrys all the heat...

jjdiesel1990

yeah , just had mine all apart and i think it does too

Jim Lane

When I got my truck the blower would not blow real hard and was intermittent so I checked the wiring and I found the wire under the steering column was burning up and melted the plastic housing and also melted my ignition switch. I replaced the ignition switch and installed a 70-amp relay from the ign. switch to control the feed for the fuse panel to take the entire load off from the switch.

My blower motor seems to not be blowing hard at MAX speed.
I checked the voltage at my blower motor yesterday and I was showing 11.15 volts across the motor while my battery is at 13.89 volts, Not sure of the path this takes but I know it goes through the resistor in the air box to control the speeds.

What I am planning on doing is to install a relay to have the blower on its own circuit from the battery so I also need to find the wiring for this truck also so I can connect the speed control. There seems to be a lot of voltage drop in this circuit from all of the 14ga. & 16ga wires.
Jim

BearKiller

This truck is all new to me.

I am working in the blind as to what the various previous owners have done and what mistakes Dodge may have made.

I found the heater-fuse location, in the factory fuse-block, was melted/burnt away.

There were two fat wires, hanging by the fuse-block, crimped to an inline fuse holder, that had burned the crimps.

I cleaned up and replaced the crimps with good REALLY crimped connectors and this gave me action at the A/C and heater-fan, that I didn't have before.

BUT, I notice that those two fat wires and the inline fuse-holder (30AMP) get hotter than I want to hold, when the blower is on.

This can't be good for the ignition-switch or the blowers.

Jim Lane

Your motor could be on its way out and drawing excessive current, if I get a chance I will check and see how much current my newer(ish) motor is drawing.
When I look at the wiring on these trucks I am amazed why more of them have not burned to the ground from overheated wiring, like pushing 120 amps from the stock alternator through about 10 feet of maybe 6ga. wire.
Jim

BearKiller

They are sure scary looking, up under the dash and under the hood; but, they are not near so scary looking as the tiny wiring in Fords of the same years.

I came in, one night, turned everything off (or so I thought), and went inside.

I looked out, later, and all my parking/cab lights were on.

I am not a light-leaver-on-er person.

The switch was OFF; but, some of the factory wires had melted themselves together, putting power to the light wires.

Before someone comments on my hundred-some-odd extra markers, the only lights on that circuit are the ones that Ford put there.