Can anyone explain the process of bleeding the air from the fuel lines after changing the fuel filter on a 2002 CTD? I am hesitant to perform this maintenance and not be able to start my truck. Advise is appreciated. ???

It's not hard. Change the filter. Then turn the key on and bump the starter. DO NOT START THE TRUCK. Just bump the starter and you'll hear the lift pump run for 30-45 seconds. When it stops running, turn the key off, back on and bump the starter a second time. DON'T START THE TRUCK. When it stops running this time, you should start the truck with no problem. Some do this three times to be good and safe. Any air in the filter is purged by doing this.

Just do it the Easy way like I do. After fuel filter has been removed and any sedement in bottom of cannister, before installing new filter just fill the cannister back up about 3/4 way with clean fuel, then drop in filter tighten down and you won't even know you did anything, starts up instantly.

Thanks for the information. :)<br><br>A Dodge diesel mechanic told me that I would need to &quot;crack&quot; 3 or 4 of the fuel lines going into the head and turnover the engine until fuel &quot;leaked&quot; from the lines which would indicate that the air had been bled.<br><br>It sounds like your method doesn't even require this procedure. True???<br>

Debolton:<br><br>Sounds like your Dodge mechanic was trying to drum up more work for himself. I've changed my fuel filter several times, and I'm no mechanic. I use the &quot;bump the starter&quot; method, usually three times. Sometimes I have to crank for a few seconds before it fires up, but it has always fired up. I've never had to crack an injector line. Changing the fuel filter can be messy, but it can save you some money. And gives you the satisfaction that you did the job yourself, and you know that it was done right. Anyway, that's how it makes me feel :)<br><br>Good Luck!<br>DeWain

<br>Thanks for the information. :)<br><br>A Dodge diesel mechanic told me that I would need to &quot;crack&quot; 3 or 4 of the fuel lines going into the head and turnover the engine until fuel &quot;leaked&quot; from the lines which would indicate that the air had been bled.<br><br>It sounds like your method doesn't even require this procedure. True??? <br><br><br><br> Doing the above will cause you problems, don't do it.<br><br>

<br>Thanks for the information. :)<br><br>It sounds like your method doesn't even require this procedure. True???<br><br><br><br>TRUE <br> just change the filter, and bump the starter to kick the pump on for 30 seconds at a time,.. i turn the key off for a few seconds during intervals, and have no problems at all<br><br>HTH<br>BRYAN

I, like you, was very hesitant to do this maintenance step. Had fears of never getting the truck started again, having to crack lines and whatever. Well, I fell into a crowd of CTD owners who willingly help others. This job is easier than changing oil filters. (Well, almost) Pop the top with a 1 1/8 socket (don't use the smaller hole, you might crack the top and you don't want to know how much that puppy costs), remove the filter, examine the bottom of the filter canister, insert new filter per instructions, replace top. Chuck 3 says add diesel before putting on top. Slight variation, we didn't. Instead we did the pump trick 5 times. Truck started up just like new. I've done this for a filter change and once for a Banjo bolt changeout. We bled down the filter to prevent the possibility of spilling fuel on the grassy area. Primed the filter back up with the 5 times trick. Not a problem. Can you say Vroooom, Vrooom? Hey, I'm mechanically challenged and have no problem doing this unassisted. Just think of the money you'll be saving. Be sure to use a Fleetguard filter from your nearest Cummins dealer or many online sources. Don't cheap out on the filter, besides it not that expensive.<br><br>~Dave

<br>I, like you, was very hesitant to do this maintenance step. Had fears of never getting the truck started again, having to crack lines and whatever. Well, I fell into a crowd of CTD owners who willingly help others. This job is easier than changing oil filters. (Well, almost) Pop the top with a 1 1/8 socket (don't use the smaller hole, you might crack the top and you don't want to know how much that puppy costs), remove the filter, examine the bottom of the filter canister, insert new filter per instructions, replace top. Chuck 3 says add diesel before putting on top. Slight variation, we didn't. Instead we did the pump trick 5 times. Truck started up just like new. I've done this for a filter change and once for a Banjo bolt changeout. We bled down the filter to prevent the possibility of spilling fuel on the grassy area. Primed the filter back up with the 5 times trick. Not a problem. Can you say Vroooom, Vrooom? Hey, I'm mechanically challenged and have no problem doing this unassisted. Just think of the money you'll be saving. Be sure to use a Fleetguard filter from your nearest Cummins dealer or many online sources. Don't cheap out on the filter, besides it not that expensive.<br><br>~Dave<br><br><br><br>Dave,<br><br>Thanks a lot for the helpful info. ; DI was really concerned about having to &quot;crack&quot; the fuel lines on my truck. The Dodge mechanic explained the &quot;cracking&quot; process to me in the dealership parking lot. He said that if you don't do it EXACTLY like he explained the &quot;truck would not start&quot;. He said that many people have run their batteries completely dead and had to tow their vehicles into the dealership.<br><br>I usually get my filters (fuel and oil) from the Dodge dealer. I'll look for Fleetguard filters on the internet if they are cheaper in price and high quality.<br><br>Thanks Again, ;D ;D ;D<br>David B.

When you do an internet search for prices on filters, check out www.genosgarage.com. They sell Fleetguard stratapore 4/2/1 kits for about $75US. Also, install a post filter fuel pressure guage and watch it while you 'bump' the starter. It will show pressure when the lines are purged of air and help you watch the condition of your lift pump.

<br>When you do an internet search for prices on filters, check out www.genosgarage.com. They sell Fleetguard stratapore 4/2/1 kits for about $75US. Also, install a post filter fuel pressure guage and watch it while you 'bump' the starter. It will show pressure when the lines are purged of air and help you watch the condition of your lift pump.<br><br><br>Thanks for the advise. I will check out genos!!!<br><br>How difficult is the &quot;post filter fuel pressure gauge&quot; to install?<br>Does Geno's sell this item?<br><br>Thanks, ;D<br>David B.

Geno's and others sell guages. I bought a combination EGT/FP guage straight from Westach for about $180US. But depends on whether you want to go mechanical, digital, or analog. Geno's does sell a banjo bolt kit that you can replace your original banjo bolt on the bottom of your fuel filter. It has a tapped 1/8&quot; NPT port for your sender. I put about 18&quot; of 1/4&quot; fuel line from there to a small brass shutoff valve, and mounted my fuel sender on the end of this. There are lots of ways to do it. Do a search on 'guage' or maybe 'pressure guage' and you should find lots of suggestions on guage types and mounting suggestions.

Don't forget to check out this sites sponsors. We have a couple- three of fine ones who also sell gauges and accessories. I can speak for Wildcat Diesel as being an excellent source. I'm just a satisfied customer, not directly associated with Rod and gang.<br><br>~Dave

I am having a heck of a time purging the air out of the system when I change the fuel filter. I tried the bump method several times with no results. I then removed both 1/4 NPT brass plugs on top of the filter canister and poured clean fuel in the center one until until it overflowed out the outside one. I have always had to crank the heck out of her to get the air out of the system. I guess I could add fuel to the canister before I put it back togeather, but I'm concerned about contamination pushing it down to get it underneath the top of the canister. Any ideas guys?

Update: I had a lift pump going out. I replaced it and everything is good to go. Presure all the time when the engine is running.

Originally posted by Geico266
I am having a heck of a time purging the air out of the system when I change the fuel filter. I tried the bump method serveral times with no results. I then removed both 1/4 NPT brass pluges on top of the filter canister and poured clean fuel in the center one until until it overflowed out the outside one. I have always had to crank the heck out of her to get the air out of the system. I guess I could add fuel to the canister before I put it back togeather, but I'm concerned about contamination pushing it down to get it underneath the top of the canister.

[duhhh]
How's your fuel supply pressure? A bad lift pump can cause the symptoms you describe. We changed the fuel filter on one individual's truck, discovered he had a bad lift pump and had to pressurize the fuel tank with compressed air to get the thing lit off!

Rusty

Originally posted by Geico266
I am having a heck of a time purging the air out of the system when I change the fuel filter. I tried the bump method serveral times with no results. I then removed both 1/4 NPT brass pluges on top of the filter canister and poured clean fuel in the center one until until it overflowed out the outside one.

Pull one of those plugs, preferrably the one closer to the center of the housing (post filter) and turn the key on. If fuel does not squirt out of there, you have a bad lift pump!!!!! Replace immediately!!!

Chris

My new pump is ordered and on the way just to be safe. So are gauges. THANKS!

Is it possible for a diesel to run without a lift pump working? I knows its a bad idea, but I'm wondering how my truck is still running? She runs better than ever.

Originally posted by Geico266
My new pump is ordered and on the way just to be safe. So are gauges. THANKS!

You getting a FASS? I just installed mine and :o the pressure NEVER drops. My 15psi gauge is too small now. I should have a 20-25 psi gaue on there because's its' pegging the one I have now. :D
I figure with the FASS, the bleeding precedure will be change the filter and bump the engine ONCE. Man this thing flows some fuel!

Chris

Geico266, I've seen this before as well on a truck including mine. If the pump doesn't have fuel in the filter or in itself its hard to prime as it's trying to compress air.

Once the pump got fuel, it used the fuel to push the air out but up until then they can get air locked and it not the pump being bad. Mine ran 16 psi idle before and after it just needed an open line to get the initial burst of fuel/prime. A Cummins tech had told me that they can sometimes have a hard time getting an initial prime if they get air locked.

My fuel pressure gauge hose has a bleeder valve on it, so now when I change filters I hook up a hose to my bleeder valve, stick it in a container, tap the starter and open the valve till fuel comes out.

pcab4,
Interesting. I have never put a drop of fuel in my filter housing before installation. I just bumped the engine a couple of times, as is mentioned earlier, and was good to go. Never had to break a line loose. The stock pump shouldn't be dry since the filter is after the pump, and the pump should not bleed back to the tank. The air should be getting pumped through the return line on the VP44, so bumping the engine should take care of all the air.

Chris

I have changed out numerous filters, drained canisters and wiped clean, replaced banjos and drained for gauge installs, and never had a prob getting primed. One trick is to take a 24" a/c charge line, screw it onto the shrader at the vp44 and do the 3 bump trick, let the lift pump run until you get good flow , remove charge line and lite her up.

my .02
wayne

TXRAM,

That's exactly what I do, as my gauge hose screws onto the schrader valve only it has a push button bleed valve just before the sending unit. Never have to remove it and it's always there.

Let's resurect this thread for a moment, shall we?

I do a bunch of work on Bobcat skid loaders and they have a bleeder screw on the filter housing and one up higher on the pump. Would it be a bad idea to put one on the Dodge fuel filter housing or not? If the lp is supposed to flow 1.9l or whatever in a single cycle, then if the air is allowed an easy way to escape the fuel filter should prime in one cycle.

BTW, where does the air go in a closed system?

Steve.

The air goes through the injector pump and out the return line. Many people have said they just fill up the filter housing and don't bleed a thing, just cycling the key and firing it up.
Many of the housings, pre-2000, have a plug in them that can be removed for bleeding. Mine had the fuel pressure gauge in it until I went with the FASS.
I don't know about the 2000 and up housings.

Chris

Yeah, I was thinking of putting a bleeder in the "out" port on the filter housing. 98, BTW.

What the heck do I have to lose? If it don't work out, I'll put the plug back in. If it makes it easier, yay me!!![laugh]