Is anyone out there using biodiesel in there truck? From everything I have been able to find on the subject, trucks actually run better on it and you can make it for about .70 @ gallon. My only concern would be engine and IP longevity.

how do you plan on making it for 70 cents? the materials for it now are well over that. I think most people are now making for about 1.50-2.00 per gallon which is still cheap. Its much better for the engine and IP because it lubricates more than ulsd

I am running bio and blended. Blended is a 10% unleaded, 10% #2, and 80% filtered, dewatered, and dryed WVO. every thing in filtered down to 2 micron.
My 2nd gen loves this blend, and has gotten about 11% better mpg. Now my 1st gen and the VE pump dont like any thing less than a 50/50 blend. But both run awsome on straight bio. but methanol is to expencive to make it, and with the blended fuel there is no problems here in north florida with the high temps we get here. Blending costs me .60 cents a gallon to make.
bob.

The .70 a gallon was the figure quoted from a Fuelmiester video. The video was a few years old so the price may be more now but it beats the #@%$ out of $4.17 a gallon #2 diesel

Price of methanol is around 300$ now. It went as high as 420$ here. That pretty much kills the benefit right there =(.
They make the stuff with natural gas mostly, although it used to be made from wood.
You can move to an ethanol process, but with all this craziness in ethanol, buying it is too expensive. Distilling it yourself is difficult because the acid / ethanol process is really touchy when it comes to water content. It has to be very pure.

90dodge are you running the blendid in a 12 or 24v?

WVO runs great in my 12 valve. you can do it w/ a 24 valve, just watch your fuel pressure...

I use 6 gal of methanol to make 30 gal of bio at $5 gal that is still only $30 for the 30 gal plus I can get back a few gallons from the glycerine .

I have been running B100 on 3 vehicles for the last 2 years. I have an 89 5.9L Cummins, a 2002 5.9L Cummins, and a 03 7.3L Powerstroke. I make all of my stuff in a BioPro380. I purchased it at www.fusionbiodiesel.com He offers a DTR discount of $250 to $500 depending on what model you get. You can make a processor for cheaper, but this thing save you some serious time (20 minutes start to finish for a 100 gallon batch). It's fully automated and makes great fuel. I haven't even so much as clogged a filter[roll].

sshelly

I run 20% Biodiesel (B20) on a regular basis. My performance is better and I too have an increase in MPG by 11 plus percent.

On another note. Where can I locate the proper information on making your own Biodiesel?

Ok, if I would have completely read SShelly's reply I would have answered my own question[duhhh]

high bid,
I am running a 12v. you can run blended with a 24v, just want to run a fuel press gauge, and thin it out as your weather turns cold.
I have gone 330 miles on less than a half tank right now with my 98. Now my first gen is another story. It will eat up B100, but blended fuel she dosnt like.

Bob

ok, thanks. I've read tons of info on bio for the last 6mos and based on the cost of meth, I'm not sure if I want to waste the time/money to build a processor if I can blend wvo with these same %s. Thanks.

I have been running B100 on 3 vehicles for the last 2 years. I have an 89 5.9L Cummins, a 2002 5.9L Cummins, and a 03 7.3L Powerstroke. I make all of my stuff in a BioPro380. I purchased it at www.fusionbiodiesel.com He offers a DTR discount of $250 to $500 depending on what model you get. You can make a processor for cheaper, but this thing save you some serious time (20 minutes start to finish for a 100 gallon batch). It's fully automated and makes great fuel. I haven't even so much as clogged a filter[roll].

sshelly

The biopros are great machines. Let's not get carried away though sshelly and mislead people. The way you wrote it, it takes 20 minutes from start to finish a 100 gal batch is totally untrue.. what's more accurate is it takes a total of 20 minutes of work/input maybe to get that 100 gal batch..but a little reading of the process on AGR's website shows 12 or 24 hour settling periods in between cycles... Plus are you doing the 80/20 method or just regular? They openly admit the regular fully automated process will likely not be close to astm d6751 bd, but the 80/20 process is...

That said, I'm thinking of trying to get a couple local guys interested in going in on one of these biopros..great machines.

I'm running B100 in my 04 6.0. It costs right around $1.00 to brew. That is not including our time. Keith

The biopros are great machines. Let's not get carried away though sshelly and mislead people. The way you wrote it, it takes 20 minutes from start to finish a 100 gal batch is totally untrue.. what's more accurate is it takes a total of 20 minutes of work/input maybe to get that 100 gal batch..but a little reading of the process on AGR's website shows 12 or 24 hour settling periods in between cycles... Plus are you doing the 80/20 method or just regular? They openly admit the regular fully automated process will likely not be close to astm d6751 bd, but the 80/20 process is...

That said, I'm thinking of trying to get a couple local guys interested in going in on one of these biopros..great machines.



Lightman---I guess I should clarify. It takes ME about 20minutes to start, drain, and finish a batch. I have my process down pretty pat now. I've make close to 8000 gallons. It should take you more than 1 hour tops. My oil is pretty good and I just do the standard process. I've used the 80/20 with bad oil.

sshelly

BTW----my cost is .93 cents per gallon right now. This includes the recent increase in methanol to $3.95/gall. My 0.93 cents includes power, water, methanol, and lye.

sshelly

I'm really curious to know more about these biopros unit. I'm located in Canada, any idea if they are availble here? What's the going price for one of these?

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=cfrm&s=447609751
Do it your self forum .http://www.expertvillage.com/video-series/4005_bio-diesel.htm
Do it your self videos .

Just what you guys have to go through to get the WVO. I've been to 5 differnt restaurants around me and they are all getting paid $.40/gall for the waste. Are county runs all their diesels on bio and built a really nice bio plant about 4 years ago. I guess most/all of our restaurants oil is going to them. I thought it would still be cheap enough for me to offer them $.60/gallon but then you get into contracts and legal junk. We do have plenty of chicken plants. Anyone used chicken fat?

cuccamonga , putting your location would be good , like to know what county is doing that .
Generally speaking , the smaller restaurants [ non franchise ] should be easier to work with , decision making is most likely done on sight , not some board room a 1,000 miles away , but every now & then I hear of someone getting a large place to be happy to turn over there oil .
The smart thing to do is , it should not make more work or hassle for them ,
then like any deal making try to be friendly , inform them what your up to , & try to figure out when its there slow time so the the owner / manager is not in a rush .
I forgot , there are a lot of oils out there , vegi & animal , there are bad of both of those , but if you were to stay away from anything or as little as possible , and animal fats .
Like I said even vegi oils differ a lot , as an example , I have mostly bought olive oil , making the assumption that is better [ quality ] for cooking .
Well take a small bottle of olive oil & a small bottle of canola oil , put then both in the fridge [ not freezer ] open the door frequently to watch , the canola oil will take a long time to turn white & thick , the olive oil will gel real quick , thats what you do not want , animal fats , do that at room temp .

Lightman---I guess I should clarify. It takes ME about 20minutes to start, drain, and finish a batch. I have my process down pretty pat now. I've make close to 8000 gallons. It should take you more than 1 hour tops. My oil is pretty good and I just do the standard process. I've used the 80/20 with bad oil.

sshelly

I tried to find some info on how that thing works. Does it use acid or lye? I dont know how you could ever get complete conversion that quickly. I pulled a sample from the batch I just brewed and the one on the left is after 5 hours. It is only partially converted and will make for a nasty mayo paste trying to wash. The one on the right is after 14 hours and you can see there is a big difference. Even still I wait a full 24 hours to make sure.
21257

Hey John

Thanks for the advice. I'm a pretty friendly guy and have done all of those things with the rest. owner. But they're still getting a pretty fair price for the waste so they're a little reluctant to change.

Anyway. I'm in NC, caldwell county. All of our buses, fire engines, etc is run off of biodiesel. Just about anything county owned that runs on diesel. They get a lot of WVO and a whole lot of chicken fat that they use. It kind of looks Bio is becoming just as big of a business as regular. Maybe I'll go to more places and try not to get discouraged.

So what do you do with the waste products? I've been trying to check these guys' systems out, if they ever call me back. Anyone familiar with their stuff?

http://www.ezbiodiesel.com/

Dave

How does a biopro do a batch of fuel that quickly? Does it skip the washing step?
When I do a batch it takes me a couple days in total.

I want to run homebrew B100, but I am concerned about the VP44. I have a FASS 150 installed so pressure should not be a problem, but i have heard some horrer stories about bio gumming up and ruining the VP44. Also Bosch will NOT warranty a new VP44 if it has been run on bio. My pump is not under warranty but I dont want to damage it either.

Is anyone running B100 in a VP44 truck?

One thing is that running more than about 30% is going to take away from performance by just a little , but not every truck response the the same , its just a generalization .
The main problem with the VP pumps is lube , the bio makes up for that .
The last issue is bad fuel , can come in any form , #2 , bio , gas .
So learn thoroughly about bio processing , even the commercial outfits are making some bad bio .
Think about from the manufactures point [ parts / Bosch ] would you want to warranty what any tom-dick&harry does in there garage , I would touch that .

I run 20% Biodiesel (B20) on a regular basis. My performance is better and I too have an increase in MPG by 11 plus percent.



Where are you getting your B20 from?

garrett, in san jose

Im on my 3rd full B-100 Tank and power is down slightly......mileage is about the same...if not a smidge less as well. I used to get about 475 on a tank before i would feel REAL unconfortable but pressure would still be solid......i know i will run it down where fuel pressure starts to suffers around 445 now.

Fuel light comes on about 380-390 now.....

Smells good too......[laugh]

BUMP...

I'm about halfway through my first tank of Bio, and I can say my mileage is up by about 10-15%. I'm running about 15% (B15), and all's well so far. Another interesting note is how much quieter the engine seems to be, especially at idle.

I wish I had the courage to run WMO, but on a CR engine, I just can't pull myself to do it. Anyone want 4 gallons of clean used oil?

garrett

The one on the right is after 14 hours and you can see there is a big difference. Even still I wait a full 24 hours to make sure.
21257

Wow Thats not a good reation.. You should see a clear line between a light gold fluid on top and a dark black goop on the bottom.
Make sure youre mixing in the correct amounts, at the right temps and that the water content is as low as possible. usually 22% methanol and whatever your titration gives you on the lye amount. I usually find 1.8 - 2.3 oil.
Another important thing is the lye has to completely dissolve to work properly. Takes a lot of time and shaking the methanol sometimes.
Its hard to find waste oil. If the places around you are getting paid for it, maybe doing a little driving further away would find some good sources?
Ive got 4 or 5 small sources that keep me busy. I collect about 18 cubes a month. Extra oil can always be dried and stored in old barrels for later use.

Wow Thats not a good reation.. You should see a clear line between a light gold fluid on top and a dark black goop on the bottom.

That was showing the wash test from a sample of 20gal I made. I was trying to show that the stuff needs to sit for some time to get a complete reaction. I am trying to figure out how these machines make fuel in a hour or so. It takes me about 3 days from reaction to final bubble drying. Here is a pic of the same fuel that passes the 27/3 test and was 2 micron filtered. 21489

I did bust someone at my one stop the other day. [verymad] He tried to say that the oil was there for anyone to take. I told him B.S. because I sign deals with the restaurants that I get it from. I then informed him that the oil was then my property and I would call the cops if he continued to take my oil. I even live in a little hick town and none of the rest. owners even heard of biodiesel. They are just happy they dont have to pay to get rid of the oil.

What I hate is there is a few fast food joints 10-15 mi. from me and they continue to pay to have it hauled off. They are so afraid of getting sued because of all these frivolous lawsuits that they will not part with it. WVO is getting to be like crude oil. I dont know how some guys are doing it paying for oil and buying methanol. How is it even worth your while?

Some guy north of us has all the restaurants around our area pretty much tied up......greedy dude if you ask me (Eh…but that is free enterprise I guess)....BUT im going to work on a few local ones and start to store some oil if i can...

Do you dry it the same way as you would with bio? Circulating it over a large surface area and heating it slightly?

Do you dry it the same way as you would with bio? Circulating it over a large surface area and heating it slightly?

I just had a batch of bio I made that had some bacon fat/lard in it and tried to dry it like you said. It did not pull all of the moisture out. I found out I had to make a bubbler to dry the fuel. Here is what I made up to sit on the bottom of a barrel. I run it off my air compressor and the 3 legs coming off the center have pin holes poked in it for tiny air bubbles to pull out the moisture. It does oxidize the fuel, but I only make 20 gal at a time so it gets used pretty quickly.

Back to your original question, you can heat it and let the water fall to the bottom. Then use the top 90% of the oil and transfer it to a dry 55gal. barrel and seal it up. I use a water bed heater that wraps nice around my bio drying tank and you could do the same to dry out your WVO.


21493

i am trying to start makin my own bio thing i have this chemical that treats 55 gallons for 20 bucks it say it will run it .46 a gallon but i will see.

Ryan , more info about what you are doing ?
From what little you said , it sounds like you are using Diesel Secret , there are some using , but many more are calling it snake oil .
That is not bio diesel by any definition .
Being that you have an 03 - common rail fuel system , you may get your self into big trouble , just trying to head you off before the trouble .

That was showing the wash test from a sample of 20gal I made. I was trying to show that the stuff needs to sit for some time to get a complete reaction.

Ohh.. in that case the stuff on the right looks perfect. When it gets that sparkle to it its fairly dry at least.
Im starting to become a big fan of drying with the appleseed reactor. I just inject air into the methanol fitting on the front and it bubbles up the steam into a clear hose plumbed on the top. It condenses and drips down into a jar where I can measure the amount of water.
Right now the price of methanol is still ridiculous. Its like 300-something a barrel. That certainly puts a major damper on the homebrewer.
I dont know if it will ever come down much. Theres so much interest in natural gas as a motor fuel now that its putting pressure on methanol production.

I can't believe you are paying 300 dollars a barrel for methanol. I pay $180 tops here. I cant' imagine if it were that high. That would put my cost of fuel @ $2. I'm at $0.93 right now. This includes power to run the processor, chemicals, water for wash, etc. sshelly BTW I'm using a BioPro 380 purchased from www.fusionbiodiesel.com

I can't believe you are paying 300 dollars a barrel for methanol. I pay $180 tops here. I cant' imagine if it were that high. That would put my cost of fuel @ $2. I'm at $0.93 right now. This includes power to run the processor, chemicals, water for wash, etc. sshelly BTW I'm using a BioPro 380 purchased from www.fusionbiodiesel.com

The guy making that bio im running, his methanol price has also shot up to about 300.00 for about 55 gallons.....said its more than quadrupled in the last year for some reason.......I doesnt strike me as the guy to lie about that info.....but who know....im just happy to pay about a buck and a half less than diesel price at the pump....

Even one of my local dealers that keeps methanol on hand for Water/Meth kits said its going way up......

Is there anyone in Arizona that is running BioDiesel? I just bought my 07 5.9 quad cab and myself and a few friends are interested in running BioDiesel but dont know where to buy it and dont know what blend to run ie: B20.B85,B100 Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I'm in Mesa. PM me.

The guy making that bio im running, his methanol price has also shot up to about 300.00 for about 55 gallons.....said its more than quadrupled in the last year for some reason.......I doesnt strike me as the guy to lie about that info.....but who know....im just happy to pay about a buck and a half less than diesel price at the pump....

Even one of my local dealers that keeps methanol on hand for Water/Meth kits said its going way up......

Last barrel I purchased was 177$ delivered to a business addy. The supplier said the price may even drop a little soon but doubts it will be down to 2.65-2.70 like it was just late last year.

sshelly you have a PM

i was logged in as ryan the other day. yes it is called diesel secret what do you no about it?

When I first look at there web site & found no info on what it was , just claims , the usall bs looking sales stuff , I was suspect .
I found from others , that diesel secret was snake oil also .
At that point I did not pay close attention to what came up later , some have found details about what is in it , then continued negative reports .
But like a lot of things , that are snake oil , there is almost always some followers / users .
So its a would of caution , then you add to the having a common rail fuel system , it double trouble .
To keep from future problems , use not more than 20% - B20 - real bio diesel , dodge & Cummins recomend extra filter for water with B20 .

Is there anyone in Arizona that is running BioDiesel? I just bought my 07 5.9 quad cab and myself and a few friends are interested in running BioDiesel but dont know where to buy it and dont know what blend to run ie: B20.B85,B100 Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I'm in Tucson. PM if you need.

i am in Pleasanton (south of San Antonio) is there any of yall around me running bio if so i would like to hear from you. Thanks

im in SA and I am getting ready to purchase a system to brew with.. Cowboydave and I will get one cranking out some fuel.. I have used b20 withiout issues. I am going to go up to b50 -b70 when I start brewing it up.... I cant wait...

Is there anyone in Arizona that is running BioDiesel? I just bought my 07 5.9 quad cab and myself and a few friends are interested in running BioDiesel but dont know where to buy it and dont know what blend to run ie: B20.B85,B100 Any help will be greatly appreciated.


I get my B99 at Western States Petroleum in Phoenix. They ar at 16th ave and Grant. This is a little north of Buckeye and between 7th and 19th aves. I pay about 3.79 for it and I run it straight.

have you had any problems running it? My 07 advises not to run anything over 5% biodiesel. I am just wondering and looking for alternative to paying these ridculously high prices for diesel. Never understood why the government placed the diesel prices so high. remember the days when buying diesel was so much cheaper then gas.

have you had any problems running it? My 07 advises not to run anything over 5% biodiesel. I am just wondering and looking for alternative to paying these ridculously high prices for diesel. Never understood why the government placed the diesel prices so high. remember the days when buying diesel was so much cheaper then gas.

Might do some searching on about biodiesel polymerization common rail injection.

This is why they don’t recommend high concentrations of bio in the ISBe's. Most have found B-50 to be the most you can run without issue

I have talked to several that have no issue running B-100....like the guy i get my bio from....but i have also talked to some that are changing filters all the time.....and mistaking this issue for the fuel cleaning the tank......

What they say is the high pressure (and heat) generated by the CP3 can structurally change the fuel at the molecular level. Causing it to become stringy in nature. This in turn gets caught by the filter……and injectors…...

I would do some searching on the subject and then make your decision on what concentration you want to run…

I have had no problems in my 99, but Like said above, there has been a lot of discussion about poly...tion in common rails. I have heard that VW CRD's run bio no problem. I think you are good to go wit a blend up to 20% though.

I would like to know if running straight veg. oil that is properly de-watered, filtered and heated while running the truck is better for the engine or worse than using high concentrations of bio. anyone have any info on this?

I would like to know if running straight veg. oil that is properly de-watered, filtered and heated while running the truck is better for the engine or worse than using high concentrations of bio. anyone have any info on this?

You should fill in your truck details in the user control panel , these trucks have varied over the yrs a lot each yr has its pros & cons .
From what I have gathered , only using bio [ glycerins removed ] is the only thing I would use in any diesel , because the glycerins either does not burn or burn well , causing coking in the engine , then depending on newer truck or not there are other issue , even with bio at higher concentration's .
Just because the facts say one thing does not mean everyone goes along with them .
Many use all kinds of things & combinations of , if nothing els , this is where you can find the results of all the combinations of things every one does .
Some have reported long use of the unrecommended alternatives .
Its like a lot of things that may or may not work under different conditions .
If you did not have a truck , you would never break down in it , if you buy fuel from a lot of different places , you increase the odds of a bad batch of fuel , if you use a larger variety of fuels , you have higher odds of haveing all kinds of issues .
The bottom line is do you want to bet your truck on having problems , then do a larger verity of things & fuels with it .

WELL 2 things keep me from WVO or SVO:

Heating the fuel up. I don’t like to put a ton of heat into a pump (VP-44) that is already sensitive to heat as is. If I had a Ford PSD or Mechanical engine....i would look into it.

Second is the complexity of the kit needed to run WVO or SVO. AND some do-it-yourselfers don’t do it right and have TONS of issues with the plumbing and such ( I have seen some big time hack jobs). If you do decide to go this route…I would talk to one of several companies that specialize in this type of thing. They offer kits that will get you going that have all the bugs worked out. If you can find oil…the kit will pay for itself in no time.

You will need a 2 circuit system….one that will allow you to start and stop the truck on Diesel until the oil gets heated to 160-170*. And one circuit that will heat the oil, keep heat in the oil and feed the engine with minimum restriction.

i was logged in as ryan the other day. yes it is called diesel secret what do you no about it?

Listen to John re: Diesel Secret! 'Tis snake oil and I have read that some of the chemicals used in it to 'thin' your veggie oil do some hellish things to your lubricity (HFRR) numbers. I don't know that to be fact but there is a lot of hearsay out there on that one.

Take heed the warning on B100 polymerization issues with the high pressure CR systems too. B50 would be the max I'd chance running. Also, make sure your finished product is washed real well and dried well.

Water is your enemy when it comes to making and using bio.

I love BioPros. I just don't have a line on enough WVO to pop off 50 gallons every 48 hours. At the price of those machines, I would want to be running it constantly.

I've heard that some muni sewage treatment plants will take the glycerin byproduct. I don't make enough bio to have disposal issues.

Here's a sample from my latest effort. Passes water, 3/27 and Ph test. Great source of WVO. They change out their veggie oil daily. I found the biggest factor to getting the reaction to pop off real good is to make sure your starting oil is DRY DRY DRY! Did I say DRY?

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj241/willowick8851/IMG_0356.jpg

im in SA and I am getting ready to purchase a system to brew with.. Cowboydave and I will get one cranking out some fuel.. I have used b20 withiout issues. I am going to go up to b50 -b70 when I start brewing it up.... I cant wait...

SA here, let me know if/when you start brewing. I'd like to stop by.

there is one biodiesel maker here in SA Alamo Biodiesel. They are off I-35 in the downtown area between new braunfels and Walters ST www.alamobiodiesel.com

I would like to know if running straight veg. oil that is properly de-watered, filtered and heated while running the truck is better for the engine or worse than using high concentrations of bio. anyone have any info on this?

I guess what I am referring to here is the polymerization of high concentrations of bio in a common rail. Does straight veg. oil do this too? I have a 03.

Austin, that is some really nice looking bio there.You better butter up your WVO supplier that changes the oil daily! I would send the guy a giftcard or something. I am pretty lucky too and have a supply of good, clean peanut WVO that is still golden when I pick it up.

Anyone in North Eastern North Carolina running Bio? If so, where did you get it?

Austin, that is some really nice looking bio there.You better butter up your WVO supplier that changes the oil daily! I would send the guy a giftcard or something. I am pretty lucky too and have a supply of good, clean peanut WVO that is still golden when I pick it up.

I make sure to drink his beer at least once a week! Gold in is GOLD out.

you dont have to use methanol, go get some e85 it is cheaper and it works just like meth :cool:

On another note. Where can I locate the proper information on making your own Biodiesel?

Ram of Steel:

Don't know if the URL will post, but a good place I've found for info on making bio is at journeytoforever dot org.... http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_make.html

Hope that helps!

SShelly did you have a supplier of bio in AZ? I live over in Mesa. I see AZPERFORMANCEBIO is still trying to get EPA cert. But he has been in the holding mode since Sept. of last year. Hope his product hasn't been sitting that long. With the price increase lately I'm looking into processing my own bio. I have a few restaurants I can get used oil from more than likely for free. I know the owner well. Anyone in AZ wanna get together and have a few cold ones and talk bio? I have aces to pumps filters and barrels plumbing supplies. Just looking for some one with a chemistry back ground. Maybe put together a small refinery for us Dodge guys.

Theres a 3 biodiesel sellers in the phoenix area as far as i know now..

Brown Evans Distributing Co.
Western State Petroleum
SC Fuels

I recently talked to a guy, in a local shop that does nothing but, repair and rebuild fuel injection pumps. They do mostly diesel work and even are an authorized Bosh repair facility. I asked him what he thought of biodiesel. He said, "I LOVE BIODIESEL" However when I questioned him further he said the reason he loved it was because of "ALL THE MONEY I MAKE FROM REBUILDING INJECTION PUMPS RUINED BY BIODIESEL" I dont think I will take a chance with my VP44.

I recently talked to a guy, in a local shop that does nothing but, repair and rebuild fuel injection pumps. They do mostly diesel work and even are an authorized Bosh repair facility. I asked him what he thought of biodiesel. He said, "I LOVE BIODIESEL" However when I questioned him further he said the reason he loved it was because of "ALL THE MONEY I MAKE FROM REBUILDING INJECTION PUMPS RUINED BY BIODIESEL" I dont think I will take a chance with my VP44.

That story does not past the sniff test .
There are a lot of huge studies that have good control factors on seeing good results with bio diesel .
Control factors , I've been around bio diesel for a number of yrs now , and I see/hear a lot of people through terms around , and they do not know what the definitions are , WVO & SVO are not bio diesel , many are calling WVO & SVO , bio diesel , I heard/read people discus trying to make bio out of used tranny oil .
The point being that , does your guy at this shop know the difference , dose the one that owns the truck hes working on know the difference , then like any other subject , do it yourselfers , many are not good at working with there hands and mess things up , so make bad batches of bio ,
The studies that have been done where commercially mad bio , with very stringent controls , this alone shows bio to be OK .
Then you add many making there own [ even many commercial processors have had many issues making ] and making many mistakes , you find that bio easily gets a bad rap here & there .