Best Towing 3rd Gen?
#1
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Best Towing 3rd Gen?
Im looking at trading up my 90 DRW for a 3rd gen. (expanding family says I need 4 doors!)
What year/model should I be looking for? I don't want to have to buy another truck for at least 5 years!
I was looking at some 04's until I discovered that some are equipped with only 250hp?! How do I know which to avoid?
I tow a 31footer, 6500lbs empty. Plus 2 motorbikes in the bed.
I'd like to go SRW this time, just for ease of driving around town.
Thanks
S>
What year/model should I be looking for? I don't want to have to buy another truck for at least 5 years!
I was looking at some 04's until I discovered that some are equipped with only 250hp?! How do I know which to avoid?
I tow a 31footer, 6500lbs empty. Plus 2 motorbikes in the bed.
I'd like to go SRW this time, just for ease of driving around town.
Thanks
S>
#2
Registered User
I would say an early 08 Quad Cab long bed 3500 SRW, 6.7L with the 68RFE auto. This model of truck has an integral exhaust brake and the 6 spd auto has been very reliable in operation. The tow/haul mode and exhaust brake will just about slow done anything on the road without the use of brakes.
I am using a 2008MY 2500HD Mega Cab to pull a 11K 5er. I have had this truck out west camping and will never go back to any thing else.
Just my $0.02
I am using a 2008MY 2500HD Mega Cab to pull a 11K 5er. I have had this truck out west camping and will never go back to any thing else.
Just my $0.02
#3
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Sharp, Just about any CTD truck will tow a trailer decently. I pull a 34ft fiver 15k lbs, no problems at all. There is e-brake kits available, if you need it. You going in the back country with the trailer? CTD trucks are front heavy and tend to get stuck easy in the muck. If you load stuff into the bed, I would stay away from lifted trucks. I have a 2in lift and its enough to make things difficult.
#4
Top's Younger Twin
The only thing I would watch for is what the smallest number on the door sticker states because the dot do check what the manufacturers rating is and what you are towing. It started out in BC and its now an awareness that the DOT everywhere have for more revenue. If you are asked to go over the scales and your trucks total weight exceeds the manufacturers stated total weight of the truck [thats pin weight, cargo] , they will make you unhook. I got tagged in my 07 Mega Cab dually 3500 4x4. The door sticker stated 10,500 pounds whereas a 3500 quad cab states 12,200 pounds.
I now know of two people that got tagged that were not commercial. One was an 05 2500 4x4 with a 12,000 pound 5th wheel. He was over by 1100 Kilograms. Its not the axle or the tire rating...those are higher. I was really surprised and disappointed when I got stopped. Just a heads up on what is happening.
Overall I think all the 3rd gens can tow just fine. I recall there are a few of the low HP trucks...weren't they California trucks?
Scotty
I now know of two people that got tagged that were not commercial. One was an 05 2500 4x4 with a 12,000 pound 5th wheel. He was over by 1100 Kilograms. Its not the axle or the tire rating...those are higher. I was really surprised and disappointed when I got stopped. Just a heads up on what is happening.
Overall I think all the 3rd gens can tow just fine. I recall there are a few of the low HP trucks...weren't they California trucks?
Scotty
#5
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Thats BC for ya. Last time I went thru there, they wanted me to put in a new windshield as I had one rock chip and my exhaust wasn't emission legal. Bunch of boneheads, those hiway guys. Took them glance at my plate, and they waved me thru. In that province, they will charge you for anything that they can get away with. I've never had an issue towing my RV in that province yet. If they go by the door sticker, we all will be driving class 8 hiway truck, just to go RVing.
#6
I would think any 3rd gen will do it. i wounder if those 250 hp. where California models. as far as that door sticker i here it on every site i'm on dont go over what it says. i'm going to take mine off.
#7
Registered User
They all tow great but if I where to do it again I would look for a 03 or early 04 with the 305 hp engine and a 6 speed. You can tell what HP its rated at by looking at the front drivers side of the valve cover. It has a spot that lists "Advertised HP" There was the California version rated at 250 HP for 03 and early 04 the normal version for the rest of the world rated at 305HP for the same time frame then in 04.5 they did away with having 2 versions and all states got what was dubed the "600" for its 600 ft/lb of tourque. It was rated at 325hp. The 600s got a little worse milage than the 305 hp versions. The 305hp 03 and early 04s got the best milage of the bunch. I had a 04.5 with a six speed and it would pull 20mpg if I babied it and drove 60mph or under but I normaly cant drive that way. Now my 06 Mega Cab auto gets at best 17-18 empty. I hate the way this auto tows after driving a 6 speed for so long. Personaly I would recomend any year 3rd gen with the 5.9 and a six speed but a 03 or early 04 will get teh best milage.
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#9
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The 4.5 and 05 ctd's tend to melt pistons, its that extra injection cycle that tends to hurt stuff. The best year for 3rd is the 03. You can always put in a programer and get the extra power, so the manufacturer rating is nothing to worry about. I still prefer the 2nd gen stuff, its just cheaper to keep running. Go price out injectors, the injector firing coils. Its a good way to drop big bucks. Isn't it around $400 a injector and they tend to foul up pretty easy with dirt fuel. My ride, can just about burn anything and still run.
#11
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the 250hp in the 03 was the SO motor with the 5 speed. I own one and love it. The california model was 235HP for emissions. I pull a 32 ft 5th wheel and GCVW last time on the scales was 20532. Have not problems stopping or going any speed I want other than the trailer tire limitations.
#14
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The 4.5 and 05 ctd's tend to melt pistons, its that extra injection cycle that tends to hurt stuff. The best year for 3rd is the 03. You can always put in a programer and get the extra power, so the manufacturer rating is nothing to worry about. I still prefer the 2nd gen stuff, its just cheaper to keep running. Go price out injectors, the injector firing coils. Its a good way to drop big bucks. Isn't it around $400 a injector and they tend to foul up pretty easy with dirt fuel. My ride, can just about burn anything and still run.
When do you think my pistons will start melting?
#15
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I would like to throw my 2 cents in about the 6.7 and the 68FRE. For stock, an amazing engine and transmission combo with the engine brake. The fuel economy could be better, but the 6 speed auto is an engineering marvel (until you turn up the power).