RickCJ

My buddy wants to step up to a 2000's model truck what is the best year. He wants to know which has the best options and interiors etc..... what years had rear disc. most power etc... Any and all ideas are welcome.

phox_mulder

That would have to be early 2002's.

2001.5 saw 4 wheel disc brakes.
2002 worked any bugs that existed with that setup.
Late 2002 lost the vaccum front axle disconnect so the front driveshaft always turns.
More wear and tear and some mileage loss.

2000 had the most little things that were removed later in the name of the almighty buck.
Full length trim, hood liner, rear cup holders, lighted visor mirror, rear wheel liners, lighted ignition key halo.

2001 lost some, 2001.5 some more, 2002 the most.

2000 advertised power 215/420 automatic tranny, 235/460 standard tranny (5spd).

2001-2002 saw the HO (High Output ETH) option emerge.
Advertised power 235/460 automatic or 5sp manual(SO ETC), 245/505 6speed manual (HO ETH)


An early 2002 HO with the 6speed would be the best truck and engine.


phox

RustyJC

Phox,

Ummm....yep, sounds right to me. Ordered my 2002 that was built on July 31, 2001 and delivered August 15, 2001. It's never been back to the dealer for anything, much less a warranty repair, even though it spends 90% of its life towing a 13,500 lb 5th wheel. The original lift pump is still putting out 16+ PSIG at idle and 12 PSIG at WOT. I love this truck!

Rusty

AaronT

Rusty: Have you upgraded the fuel lines with banjo's or larger line, or is it all stock?
Thanks

Iron Horse

I like the fact that I dont have the front axle disconect, one less thing to worry about not working. My first chevy had one of those thermo deals on the front end, had to sit around and wait for the 4x4 to work....

Plus it means you have a one piece axle shaft on the passenger side, much stronger.

phox_mulder

I'm glad I don't have the CAD, but don't like the alternative either.

I'd much rather have it like the good ole days.

Solid axle shafts and lockable hubs.

Old School.


phox

RustyJC

I have Ray Torresdal's larger banjo bolts. Other than that, the fuel supply system is stock!

Rusty

Cyborrg

I like the idea of locking hubs also. I have a '69 PowerWagon that I had problems with Warn Automatics, so I went back to the OEM flip levers, with the bolt on solids behind the seat. Old school. But I have seen too many failures of the sliding collar system to want that. I'll keep clean synthetic lube in the front pumpkin and a "Ford Cord" (tow strap) for my unlucky compadres

If somebody marketed a " hub kit" I think that a lot of hard core, old school, zerk pumping, bearing packing fools would buy it.

note:After proof reading this I want to note that I am not berating Warn hubs. The make a fine product. Would use them again with confidence. I was very abusive, wheeled several time a week, drove dirt, rock roads daily and generally beat the snot out of those trucks.

dieselminded

I have to lock my truck in 4x4 every day so I dont tare up the mountian of a hill that goes to my house. So manual locking hubs would be a pain in the neck for me I love my autos expecially when its raining or really cold out

1320

98 12 valve.

Better mileage, simple engine, big power easy, late interior, first year for the quad cab.

Pete Peterson

Of the 4 I've had and liked the early 02's seem to be the best in fit and finish,no problems at all...... I think my 02 will be a keeper..........Pete

ramcummins

Phox, explain the exact difference between the early and late '02 front axle. I know that the early ones had a vacuum line to disconnect the axle shafts from the diff. So that to me says more moving parts and therefore more things to go wrong because the hubs and u-joints still spin, right? The way I understand it is the only thing that dosen't spin is the diff. and driveline

phox_mulder

Everything is spinning right back to the transfercase.

Hubs are spinning, differential is spinning and driveshaft is spinning.
Once you put it in 4x4, the transfer case connects the power.

Older ones the hubs turned, but the axle shaft wasn't connected to the differential till you put it in 4x4.
(one side anyway, as I understand it)
There is a sliding collar that connects the two halfs.
I guess half the differential was turning, and the driveshaft wasn't turning in 2 wheel drive.

Really older ones had locking hubs, so nothing was spinning till you locked in the hubs, then the hubs spun, diff spun and driveshaft spun, put it in 4x4 and the transfer case connected everything to power.

I'm sure someone knows the CAD system better than I.

phox

ramcummins

So if only half of the diff is spinning the spider gears are working double overitme right? If this is the case the only thing that is not spinning is the driveline but everything is working double or spinning backwards, so where is the less wear & tear or am I way out of line?

RickCJ

Actually there is less wear/tear on the newer system, and it is also more dependable. The new Jeep TJ also dumped the vacumn disconnect. Not any differance in gas mileage and fail often. With the front diff spining it keeps lubed better and the front driveshaft will last longer, remember how often the older Dodges needed new front shafts although they didn't turn all summer, they just seesawed back and forth on the splines till they were shot. Lock out or auto hubs would give a liitle better mileage.